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Old 02-28-2016, 12:28 PM   #21
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A new one was only 20$s. My time is worth more than that to me. OTOH, I now have spares in case I encounter a helper.


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Old 02-28-2016, 12:39 PM   #22
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Attachment 92724 As part of my LiteHouse rebuild, I am redoing the cushions. The upholstery guy said that except for some mold, the foam is in good shape. At his suggestion, I'm treating the mold with. 30% bleach solution.


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Paul has asked me to post his suggestion that you throw those cushions away; our foam guy said you cannot ever get all the mold out, and some mold is extremely toxic.

HOWEVER, that said, others here have cleaned cushions, and bleach is about your best bet. If you have sunshine, try to get them out in it to dry some; UV helps kill a lot of nasty things.

We really feel for you. We ended up throwing out our cushions (bought our amerigo last September) when our foam guy here said no way...and we've bought a foam mattress to cut up, like you've mentioned. (IKEA, on clearance).

I'm just extra nervous about mold, since I'm terribly allergic. Funny I didn't really notice it when we bought the trailer...(I think he'd sprayed and aired it out with the fan before we arrived) but I sure became aware of it once I spent time in it there. I gagged all night long in the house, and was sick for two days. So...

Anyway, what a cute trailer. Rear end looks a lot like the amerigo.
Good photos!

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Old 03-05-2016, 12:37 PM   #23
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Name:	ImageUploadedByFiberglass RV1457202759.774558.jpg
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ID:	93032 Closing in on the demo of the old floor. I hope to finish most of that today and start figuring out the plywood next. I'm planning on epoxying in marine plywood. A few folks have recommended 3/4" but the original floor was 1/2" and I want the cabinets and benches to fit.

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Name:	ImageUploadedByFiberglass RV1457202974.586692.jpg
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ID:	93033 I haven't decided about the rat fur yet. Once I get the floor in, I'll start thinking about the rest of it.


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Old 03-05-2016, 01:55 PM   #24
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I'm still on the fence. I hit it 30% bleach which got most of it. A little bit has come back. I still have bleach left so I'm going to put the whites back on and try again.

The upholstery guy I talked to, suggested cutting a mattress is a bad idea and wants to sell me $300 of foam to replace what I have. I assume I need giant scissors to cut foam?

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Originally Posted by Kai in Seattle View Post
Paul has asked me to post his suggestion that you throw those cushions away; our foam guy said you cannot ever get all the mold out, and some mold is extremely toxic.

HOWEVER, that said, others here have cleaned cushions, and bleach is about your best bet. If you have sunshine, try to get them out in it to dry some; UV helps kill a lot of nasty things.

We really feel for you. We ended up throwing out our cushions (bought our amerigo last September) when our foam guy here said no way...and we've bought a foam mattress to cut up, like you've mentioned. (IKEA, on clearance).

I'm just extra nervous about mold, since I'm terribly allergic. Funny I didn't really notice it when we bought the trailer...(I think he'd sprayed and aired it out with the fan before we arrived) but I sure became aware of it once I spent time in it there. I gagged all night long in the house, and was sick for two days. So...

Anyway, what a cute trailer. Rear end looks a lot like the amerigo.
Good photos!

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Old 03-05-2016, 02:22 PM   #25
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Electric carving knife works well cutting foam.
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Old 03-05-2016, 03:13 PM   #26
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You can cut foam with a serrated bread knife, too. It's surprisingly easy, just go slow and be careful. Mark both sides and check often to see you're on the line. It's not "a bad idea." And there are a lot of foam mattresses that can be had for much less than $300.

Put your foam up on a big table and cut near the table edge, to keep the foam stable. You can even use a bungee or something to strap the foam so it holds still.

That said, you CAN go ahead and buy the foam set; it's easier. OUR foam guy wanted $2000. Now really!?!?

YMMV
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Old 03-05-2016, 03:19 PM   #27
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Attachment 93032 Closing in on the demo of the old floor. I hope to finish most of that today and start figuring out the plywood next. I'm planning on epoxying in marine plywood. A few folks have recommended 3/4" but the original floor was 1/2" and I want the cabinets and benches to fit.

Attachment 93033 I haven't decided about the rat fur yet. Once I get the floor in, I'll start thinking about the rest of it.


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3/4" vs 1/2" ply:

I agree with you, that you should probably use the same thickness of ply that you took out.

Our floor was 5/8, so we got 5/8 marine ply. We borrowed some OLD ply from a neighbor to make temporary flooring while we took apart the belly band and windows because the trailer is outside, it rains a lot here, and we don't want the lovely new marine ply to get wet, prima donna plywood that it is.

We may use a scrap of the marine ply for the countertop...they sell "counter sealant" paint that's food-safe, and the edge of the ply looks like a chocolate necco wafer. It's really lovely plywood!

Took months to "fume off" in the living room.
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Old 03-06-2016, 06:28 AM   #28
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Was your marine plywood BC birch?


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Old 03-06-2016, 07:20 AM   #29
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When I was looking to redo a floor, I was considering something along these lines, rather than anything containing wood. I don't believe the weight difference is that great and only works toward a lower center of gravity.

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Old 03-06-2016, 09:14 AM   #30
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When I redid my floor I went with the grind down to flat rather than use filler to raise up... I think it was the right way to go, however i wanted to share a little.

First off I used a 24 grit flat wheel on an angle grinder to do most of the heavy removal. worked well, was a dust cloud nightmare. Don’t try this in a suburban front yard or anywhere up wind of anything that you don’t want covered in dust. Buy the shop-vac filter that is waterproof and can be hosed off.

The dust and the trailer are staticly attracted to each other, the dust worked its way into unimaginable places... if you can, tape off everything, cover it in plastic or something... I had mold issues as well and had assumed I would be scrubbing every surface anyway so I hadn’t worried about the dust. Keep as much as you can covered and dust excluded, its not worth biologically contaminated areas that also will make you itchy for a week.

The regular bondo filler is fine, it is so much easier to work with than the fiber re-enforced kind... The truth is if you need the extra strength, build up the strength with mat and use the bondo to make the shape. Whenever I could, I used glass under and above anywhere I used filler
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Old 03-06-2016, 09:23 AM   #31
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oh yea... The shape of you trailer is probably like mine, very plastic... with the floor rotten and or removed the walls and rest of the trailer responds dynamically... It is a bit of trial and error to determine the shape the trailer wants to be... start experimenting and figure out a clamping plan for when you want to glue the floor back in... check the walls against a template from the cabinets and door to be sure they are in the right shape... if you put a straight edge along the fiberglass floor it might be humping in the middle and letting the walls sag down. think about how you will support all of this weight to allow the plywood to resin-in flat.
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Old 03-06-2016, 09:26 AM   #32
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I think I might have had too much coffee this morning but I hope some of this information is helpful... oh yea, I would also advocate for polyester resins over the epoxy, I don’t know what west systems product you had meant
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Old 03-06-2016, 01:27 PM   #33
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I think I might have had too much coffee this morning but I hope some of this information is helpful... oh yea, I would also advocate for polyester resins over the epoxy, I donít know what west systems product you had meant

Why polyester resin? And, yes, very helpful.


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Old 03-06-2016, 01:31 PM   #34
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ID:	93057 It appears that the original builder used red locktite on the big bolts.


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Old 03-06-2016, 07:08 PM   #35
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The idea basically is that the trailer, with the exception of the wood, has lasted a very long time with the materials they chose. Epoxy resins stick to anything but polyester only sticks to polyester, once you switch to epoxies you have to stay there... and so do future owners.
That being said I have probably put down 7 gallons of resin, there is a large price difference and so far I have found little lacking in the strength of the polyester
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Old 03-06-2016, 07:27 PM   #36
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Does polyester resin saturate plywood as well as epoxy?
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Old 03-07-2016, 06:18 AM   #37
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It may be too good to be true but I found an alternative to West or System 3 for a much more reasonable price. Has anyone had experience with resins from these guys? http://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html


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Old 03-07-2016, 08:19 AM   #38
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Was your marine plywood BC birch?


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I don't know. We got it from a local marine yard.
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Old 03-07-2016, 08:25 AM   #39
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Paul's been getting his epoxy resin at a local auto body shop. The hardener is available even at Lowe's or MacLendon's hardware stores.

He's paying about $40 a gallon for the resin. It requires no special treatment to kick or harden, just add the appropriate amount of hardener for the temperature and it takes about 20 minutes total, maybe less, but he gives it that long.

It's sticking to everything he wants it to stick to very well. So far. But he's also doing a great deal of prep work and later lots of fairing and more prep for priming with Rustoleum Marine (wood and fiberglass) "white" primer.
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Old 03-08-2016, 11:09 AM   #40
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Attachment 93057 It appears that the original builder used red locktite on the big bolts.
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I'm assuming that I should replace the carriage bolts with grade 5?
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