Loose Rivits on 2014 Scamp - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV
Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 04-29-2015, 01:45 PM   #21
Senior Member
 
Bob Miller's Avatar
 
Trailer: Class A Motorhome
Posts: 7,912
Hmmmm. My observation on our former 13' Scamp is that the Acorn nuts were twisted onto the rivet AFTER the rivet was popped, to create a bit of "Dress" on the inside. This was evidenced by the appearance that some of the rivets had been trimmed off to let the acorn fit against the walls.


A solution to pulled out rivets, that works for moi, is to use the standard aluminum back-up washers on the inside so that the rivet bulb is pulled down against to washer and not the softer fiberglass. That compresses the surfaces between the rivet head and the washer face. And YES, it's takes two to do this and it is critical to be putting some degree of pressure on the washer while it is being popped. I use a 1/4" drive deep well socket and a driver handle to hold the washers in tight.



Bob Miller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2015, 02:46 PM   #22
Senior Member
 
Hidalga's Avatar
 
Name: Hidalga
Trailer: Modified 13' Scamp
Full-Timer
Posts: 401
Jim,
I don't know if you have replaced rivets before, so I'm sending you this link to a compilation of instructional rivet videos:
Pop Rivets and Hand Rivet Gun Basics | Handywomans Companion Online Magazine - Be handy—be ingenious—be old school cool.

Let us know your results, and wishing you the best.
Hidalga is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2015, 04:19 PM   #23
Senior Member
 
Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 13
California
Posts: 1,890
On my 1986 scamp the rivets are set inside the arcorn nut. When I replaced them all i found an issue with rivet length. if the rivet was too long the rivet set up in the nut threads but isn't able to draw up the compressed length. The rivet will pop and hold the acorn nut but didn't draw up tight. You need to have the rivet tip go all the way into the nut and be really close to the sandwich you are trying to tighten up. Too much rivet length the nut is standing too far out and pops the rivet when it swells inside the nut. This is a critical dimension for drawing up tight. I had to remove the shank and trim many rivets to the right length to get a proper set.

In a new application all the new materials haven't been compressed anymore so if you don't have proper rivet set and materials start compressing with age I could see rivets being loose and getting looser with age.

If you use an aluminum pop rivet with a steel pull pin you may have enough strength to actually distort the shank enough when setting the rivet to actually use a miss matched rivet.
stevebaz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2015, 05:03 PM   #24
Senior Member
 
Bob Miller's Avatar
 
Trailer: Class A Motorhome
Posts: 7,912
Hmmmmm... I just don't think that popping the rivet with the acorn nut in place, is anything close to the original design intent, much less a way to get a good tight joining.
IMHO: If Scamp is now using that technique to save a few pennies then shame on them.


As I mentioned in Post #21, use the correct size backing washers and screw the acorn nuts on afterwards as they were are only supposed to be cosmetic in the 1st place.


An electric screw gun, set on it's lowest torque setting, and a shallow socket will let you install about 100 Acorn caps in an hour.
Free tip; pinch the barrel of the exposed rivet end so that the acorn threads on better



Bob Miller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2015, 06:31 PM   #25
Senior Member
 
Carol H's Avatar
 
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post
Hmmmmm... I just don't think that popping the rivet with the acorn nut in place, is anything close to the original design intent, much less a way to get a good tight joining.
IMHO: If Scamp is now using that technique to save a few pennies then shame on them.

Actually Bob I don't know anyone with a Scamp that has not used that technic when replacing rivets. Personally can't see how the acorn nut would actually stay in place if it was fitted onto a rivet after it was shoot in place. How do you think this saves Scamp money? - it takes something that would be a one person job doing it your way and turns it into a two person job doing it the way that most of us do it and I suspect the factory actually does as well.

The key to the rivets is as has been suggested is getting the length correct - one size does not fit all on the through hull applications on the Scamp. I have found that sometimes I need to take the rivet apart and adjust its length by cutting it back before shooting it in order to get a nice solid fit even though I have rivets in a number of different lengths but none of them are the correct length needed right out of the box for some applications.
Carol H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2015, 06:36 PM   #26
Senior Member
 
Carol H's Avatar
 
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
Registry
[QUOTE=Darral T.;518979


The acorn nuts- as least on MY Scamp- is NOT aluminum...but steel. Believe me, I machined one and it's definitely not aluminum.


[/QUOTE]

Cool LOL and who says Scamp never updates anything they do/use!
Carol H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2015, 07:35 PM   #27
Senior Member
 
Name: Steve
Trailer: 2018, 21ft escape— 2019 Ram 1500 Laramie
NW Wisconsin
Posts: 4,500
I recently had a rivet replaced at LHC. It took 2 (two) people to accomplish the task .One on the outside to insert the rivet and operate the rivet gun . The other on the inside putting the acorn nut on the rivet and pushing on the acorn nut to compress the trailer lining. The same method that Scamp told me to follow.
steve dunham is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2015, 04:35 AM   #28
Member
 
artrageous's Avatar
 
Name: Sharon
Trailer: 1995 16 ft Scamp
Virginia
Posts: 82
Quote:
Originally Posted by ruscal View Post
Sharon,
On that rear window you'll have to get the frame completely removed and get it squeaky clean. Then bed the frame with the butyl tape and re-fasten. Also check the drain scuppers in the window sill, as they will overflow on the inside of the trailer if clogged. The scupper cleaning usually comes first, as it's easier to do than re bedding the frame, and is often the culprit.
Russ
We have the window out, the butyl tape I ordered (couldn't find it locally) came in the other day, and I have a product like "Goof Off" to get everything cleaned well. Tarp over the trailer (again...) I'm hoping for decent weather Saturday to try to get the window back in; sure wish we had more time to work on things!
artrageous is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2015, 07:17 AM   #29
Senior Member
 
Bob Miller's Avatar
 
Trailer: Class A Motorhome
Posts: 7,912
The acorn nuts spin onto the installed pop-rivet end just fine. I use a electric nut drive set at minimum torque and on they go.....


IMHO: I think that Scamps method is compromising the long term security of the rivets by requiring that they pull the joint together AND retain the acorn nut at the same time.


I will continue to replace any pop-rivets in fiberglass using backing washers and then threading the acorn nuts on after the fact.


Let's see.... Does anyone ever hear of pop-rivets coming loose/leaking in a Scamp? Hoodathunkit?



Bob Miller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2015, 08:51 PM   #30
Senior Member
 
Name: Russ
Trailer: Scamp 16' side dinette, Airstream Safari 19'
California
Posts: 588
I agree with Bob that the backing washer does the holding on the inside. Relying on the sketchy cosmetic acorn nuts to pull the panels together is too inconsistent due to variations in the materials.
Whether you elect to install the acorn nuts during the pull or afterward makes no difference in strength. If using Bob's method I would be careful not to let the rivet spin when installing the nut, as it could loosen the hold of the rivet.
If using the pre installation of the nut you need to dial in the perfect length of the rivet to achieve a properly set nut.
In my trailer I used the pre installation method and some of the nuts are not fully seated against the inner cabinet flanges. It is only cosmetic, as I used the back up washers to do the holding. We rigged up a pushing setup where my son could apply pressure on the cabinet flange while also pushing in on the acorn nut and back up washer stack.
Russ
ruscal is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
scamp


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
AZ | 2014, Dec 12-14: Scamp Camp SW 2014 - Sedona AZ Greg A Rallies, Get-togethers, Molded Meets (Archive) 6 12-12-2014 08:47 PM
FL | 2014, Feb. 10-14: Scamp Camp 2014 Mike Sullivan Rallies, Get-togethers, Molded Meets (Archive) 39 02-09-2014 07:36 AM
Loose Scamp rivets Tom Smayda Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 1 06-12-2013 11:43 PM
Scamp Air Conditioner housing loose Weinel, Alan Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 0 09-08-2009 09:42 AM
Loose Dometic refrigerator water drain tube on Bigfoot 08, 21RB GeorgeR Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 4 06-08-2009 02:58 PM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:53 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2023, vBulletin Solutions Inc.