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Old 02-10-2021, 12:55 PM   #1
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Lower height for storage

I know itís somewhere on this site but canít seem to find again.
Any advice to lowering a 1978 Boler with small roof vent to fit in a house garage.
Find smaller tires/wheels? This trailer doesnít seem to have an axle - wheels attached directly to trailer-
a friend suggested deflating tires but that seems bad for the tires to let sit deflated
Mayb re inflate once inside wouldnít be so bad?
Iím new so please be kind due to my lack of FG trailer knowledge
Thanks for consideration
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Old 02-10-2021, 01:09 PM   #2
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Deflating the tires is one option. As long as there enough pressure to keep the rim off the ground, you're okay to roll it a few feet. Once inside consider raising the whole trailer on jack stands to take weight off the tires and the axle. It's okay to leave the pressure low if there's no weight (around 15 psi to keep the bead seated). If it's going to sit on the tires, then yes- reinflate after you get it in.

Swapping for 8" wheels and tires is another option if deflating doesn't get you there.

If it's close, sometimes raising the tongue to get the back end in and then lowering it to get the front in will gain that last inch. Only works if you're moving it by hand, of course.
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Old 02-13-2021, 05:38 AM   #3
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We had a boler 13 that we could get in the garage by taking off the lid of the roof vent.
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Old 02-13-2021, 07:25 AM   #4
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My garage door height is 8 feet, my trailer is 8 feet 4 inches. The first time I put the trailer in the garage I aired down then removed the wheels in preparation for the build. I have since made some fred flintstone tires which I put on when I put the trailer inside. I created and printed a pattern on the computer with 5 radial lines and a circle diameter the same as the lug pattern. I transferred the pattern to a 3/4 piece of plywood, drilled the lug pattern and counter sunk the holes. I drilled a 1/4 inch hole in the center which fit a jig I made for my table saw. I rough cut the perimeter then final cut the piece on my table saw. I cut it by raising the blade until it just contacted the wood then rotated it into the blade. You have to hold the workpiece to keep it from spinning while raising the blade. Repeat the cut until done. I then cut out the center to fit the hub. I cut 2 more pieces the same diameter and glued them together. So far they are holding up great. A side benefit is the trailer is super easy to move around because of the wood tires do not flex like rubber tires. Think trains wheels.
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Old 02-13-2021, 07:48 AM   #5
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To get our Trillium 4500 under our 7 foot doorframe:

- Replace the wheels+tires with 8 inch wheels+tires
- Remove the roof vent dome
- Unplug the door opener and wedge the door bottom edge above the door frame. In order for this to work, the roller tracks are sufficiently above the door frame.
- Crouch the tongue down close to the driveway surface

Doing all of these measures, the trailer just fits, rubbing and pushing up the garage door frame seal.
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Old 02-13-2021, 11:05 AM   #6
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I used the old 13 inch rims that came with the trailer. Took the tires off and roll it in and out on the rims. This lowers the trailer by about 4 inches.
If your trailer has brakes, anything that you can bolt on that has a slightly bigger diameter (the wood wheels above, good idea) will work.
If it doesn't have brakes it could even be rolled in on the hubs as long as nothing else under trailer drags.
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Old 02-13-2021, 02:41 PM   #7
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You can remove the wheels and set them on car dollies to get it about as low as it can go.
https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-l...-pc-61283.html
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Old 02-14-2021, 09:55 AM   #8
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I actually tried car dollies. It didn't work for me because my garage floor is an inch or so higher than the driveway paving. I switched to 8" wheels+tires. I tailored the solution to my situation.
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Old 02-14-2021, 10:11 AM   #9
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Me, I would just roll it in on the hubs.
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Old 02-14-2021, 10:34 AM   #10
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No bare hubs or wheels, that would wreck my epoxy/poly floor
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Old 02-14-2021, 12:36 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John in Michigan View Post
No bare hubs or wheels, that would wreck my epoxy/poly floor
John, You are absolutely correct.
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Old 02-14-2021, 01:07 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darwin Maring View Post
John, You are absolutely correct.
Old piece a plywood would probably solve that.
Fred
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Old 02-14-2021, 02:02 PM   #13
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I'm lucky, I just have bare concrete!
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Old 02-14-2021, 02:36 PM   #14
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I'm luckier. I don't have a garage, or a carport.
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Old 02-15-2021, 05:45 AM   #15
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Walmart sells tiny pneumatic tires with both 4-bolt or 5-bolt patterns. They will lower the trailer several inches and not ruin any floor. It’s just a pain to Jack up the trailer and change the tires each time it goes in or comes out of the garage. If only put in garage at the end of “camping season” and out at beginning (twice a year) perhaps not such a pain. And the Walmart price is somewhere around $30 per wheel/tire combination the last time I looked. Used this way and stored indoors out of UV when not in use, these smaller “storage” tires should last a very long time.
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Old 02-15-2021, 05:51 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo View Post
I'm luckier. I don't have a garage, or a carport.
Be still, my heart. I am, and everyone else on FGRV must be extremely envious. It must almost be like you won millions of dollars in the lottery!
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Old 02-15-2021, 10:39 AM   #17
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So many great suggestions! I got everything ready in the garage, bought the wheel dollies ...and can’t get the wheels off!! Grrr they don’t have lug nuts like a car. Why!!!!?!
Are they supposed to have lug nuts like a car. ��??now I will need to figure out how to get these rusted nuts off... is it always something new and interesting with these older FG campers? ��
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Old 02-15-2021, 09:09 PM   #18
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What are these? They arenít the same size as my car lug nuts.
Was hoping to get it into the house garage but looks like Iíll have to wait until the ice and snow clear to take to a tire shop to get the wheels off. Mayb not a bad idea to lift it up and inspect this frame anyway

Snowed in now so hardware store will have for the correct size socket wrench anyway.
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Old 02-15-2021, 09:19 PM   #19
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Those are bolts, instead of a lug nut threaded onto a stud. My Boler 17 came with bolts. Trick is that the bolts on the right side are left threaded, while the bolts on the left side are right threaded, or is it the other way around. So if you think you are loosening the bolts, you might be tightening them. My bolts were marked with an R or a L, depending on whether they were right tighten or left tighten.

I have since replaced the hubs with hubs that have the standard right tighten studs for lug nuts.
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Old 02-15-2021, 09:52 PM   #20
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Checking around apparently my original Boler 17 hub bolts were:

- Left side/driver's side hub bolts are left threaded
- Right side/curb side hub bolts are right (standard) threaded

And again each bolt head was marked R or L.
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