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02-10-2021, 12:55 PM
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#1
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Member
Name: Teresa
Trailer: Trek
Kentucky
Posts: 37
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Lower height for storage
I know it’s somewhere on this site but can’t seem to find again.
Any advice to lowering a 1978 Boler with small roof vent to fit in a house garage.
Find smaller tires/wheels? This trailer doesn’t seem to have an axle - wheels attached directly to trailer-
a friend suggested deflating tires but that seems bad for the tires to let sit deflated
Mayb re inflate once inside wouldn’t be so bad?
I’m new so please be kind due to my lack of FG trailer knowledge
Thanks for consideration
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02-10-2021, 01:09 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: Jon
Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
Arizona
Posts: 11,925
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Deflating the tires is one option. As long as there enough pressure to keep the rim off the ground, you're okay to roll it a few feet. Once inside consider raising the whole trailer on jack stands to take weight off the tires and the axle. It's okay to leave the pressure low if there's no weight (around 15 psi to keep the bead seated). If it's going to sit on the tires, then yes- reinflate after you get it in.
Swapping for 8" wheels and tires is another option if deflating doesn't get you there.
If it's close, sometimes raising the tongue to get the back end in and then lowering it to get the front in will gain that last inch. Only works if you're moving it by hand, of course.
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02-13-2021, 05:38 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Name: Lisa
Trailer: Boler 1700
Michigan
Posts: 130
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We had a boler 13 that we could get in the garage by taking off the lid of the roof vent.
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02-13-2021, 07:25 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Name: Carl
Trailer: LiL Hauley
Syracuse, NY
Posts: 656
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My garage door height is 8 feet, my trailer is 8 feet 4 inches. The first time I put the trailer in the garage I aired down then removed the wheels in preparation for the build. I have since made some fred flintstone tires which I put on when I put the trailer inside. I created and printed a pattern on the computer with 5 radial lines and a circle diameter the same as the lug pattern. I transferred the pattern to a 3/4 piece of plywood, drilled the lug pattern and counter sunk the holes. I drilled a 1/4 inch hole in the center which fit a jig I made for my table saw. I rough cut the perimeter then final cut the piece on my table saw. I cut it by raising the blade until it just contacted the wood then rotated it into the blade. You have to hold the workpiece to keep it from spinning while raising the blade. Repeat the cut until done. I then cut out the center to fit the hub. I cut 2 more pieces the same diameter and glued them together. So far they are holding up great. A side benefit is the trailer is super easy to move around because of the wood tires do not flex like rubber tires. Think trains wheels.
__________________
Your heirs will inherit money and stuff when you are gone. You can only save or spend money, but you can do things with stuff, so they are going to inherit stuff!
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02-13-2021, 07:48 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: 1979 Boler 1700
Michigan
Posts: 2,048
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To get our Trillium 4500 under our 7 foot doorframe:
- Replace the wheels+tires with 8 inch wheels+tires
- Remove the roof vent dome
- Unplug the door opener and wedge the door bottom edge above the door frame. In order for this to work, the roller tracks are sufficiently above the door frame.
- Crouch the tongue down close to the driveway surface
Doing all of these measures, the trailer just fits, rubbing and pushing up the garage door frame seal.
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02-13-2021, 11:05 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Trailer: 13 ft Boler
Posts: 1,175
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I used the old 13 inch rims that came with the trailer. Took the tires off and roll it in and out on the rims. This lowers the trailer by about 4 inches.
If your trailer has brakes, anything that you can bolt on that has a slightly bigger diameter (the wood wheels above, good idea) will work.
If it doesn't have brakes it could even be rolled in on the hubs as long as nothing else under trailer drags.
Fred
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02-14-2021, 09:55 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: 1979 Boler 1700
Michigan
Posts: 2,048
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I actually tried car dollies. It didn't work for me because my garage floor is an inch or so higher than the driveway paving. I switched to 8" wheels+tires. I tailored the solution to my situation.
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02-14-2021, 10:11 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2002 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 3,640
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Me, I would just roll it in on the hubs.
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02-14-2021, 10:34 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: 1979 Boler 1700
Michigan
Posts: 2,048
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No bare hubs or wheels, that would wreck my epoxy/poly floor
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02-14-2021, 12:36 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2002 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 3,640
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John in Michigan
No bare hubs or wheels, that would wreck my epoxy/poly floor
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John, You are absolutely correct.
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02-14-2021, 01:07 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Trailer: 13 ft Boler
Posts: 1,175
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darwin Maring
John, You are absolutely correct.
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Old piece a plywood would probably solve that.
Fred
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02-14-2021, 02:02 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Name: Carl
Trailer: LiL Hauley
Syracuse, NY
Posts: 656
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I'm lucky, I just have bare concrete!
__________________
Your heirs will inherit money and stuff when you are gone. You can only save or spend money, but you can do things with stuff, so they are going to inherit stuff!
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02-14-2021, 02:36 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Trailer: Escape 17 ft
Posts: 8,317
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I'm luckier. I don't have a garage, or a carport.
__________________
What happens to the hole when the cheese is gone?
- Bertolt Brecht
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02-15-2021, 05:45 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Name: Carl
Trailer: 2015 Escape 5.0TA
Florida
Posts: 1,691
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Walmart sells tiny pneumatic tires with both 4-bolt or 5-bolt patterns. They will lower the trailer several inches and not ruin any floor. It’s just a pain to Jack up the trailer and change the tires each time it goes in or comes out of the garage. If only put in garage at the end of “camping season” and out at beginning (twice a year) perhaps not such a pain. And the Walmart price is somewhere around $30 per wheel/tire combination the last time I looked. Used this way and stored indoors out of UV when not in use, these smaller “storage” tires should last a very long time.
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02-15-2021, 05:51 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Name: Carl
Trailer: 2015 Escape 5.0TA
Florida
Posts: 1,691
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo
I'm luckier. I don't have a garage, or a carport.
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Be still, my heart. I am, and everyone else on FGRV must be extremely envious. It must almost be like you won millions of dollars in the lottery!
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02-15-2021, 10:39 AM
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#17
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Member
Name: Teresa
Trailer: Trek
Kentucky
Posts: 37
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So many great suggestions! I got everything ready in the garage, bought the wheel dollies ...and can’t get the wheels off!! Grrr they don’t have lug nuts like a car. Why!!!!?!
Are they supposed to have lug nuts like a car. ??now I will need to figure out how to get these rusted nuts off... is it always something new and interesting with these older FG campers?
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02-15-2021, 09:09 PM
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#18
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Member
Name: Teresa
Trailer: Trek
Kentucky
Posts: 37
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What are these? They aren’t the same size as my car lug nuts.
Was hoping to get it into the house garage but looks like I’ll have to wait until the ice and snow clear to take to a tire shop to get the wheels off. Mayb not a bad idea to lift it up and inspect this frame anyway
Snowed in now so hardware store will have for the correct size socket wrench anyway.
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02-15-2021, 09:19 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: 1979 Boler 1700
Michigan
Posts: 2,048
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Those are bolts, instead of a lug nut threaded onto a stud. My Boler 17 came with bolts. Trick is that the bolts on the right side are left threaded, while the bolts on the left side are right threaded, or is it the other way around. So if you think you are loosening the bolts, you might be tightening them. My bolts were marked with an R or a L, depending on whether they were right tighten or left tighten.
I have since replaced the hubs with hubs that have the standard right tighten studs for lug nuts.
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02-15-2021, 09:52 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: 1979 Boler 1700
Michigan
Posts: 2,048
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Checking around apparently my original Boler 17 hub bolts were:
- Left side/driver's side hub bolts are left threaded
- Right side/curb side hub bolts are right (standard) threaded
And again each bolt head was marked R or L.
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