Lowering Scamp off of rear stabilizers - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-26-2017, 05:18 PM   #1
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Name: Bill
Trailer: Scamp 13 Std.
Minnesota
Posts: 30
Lowering Scamp off of rear stabilizers

First time I've had my Scamp up on stabilizers. How do I reverse the jacking action to lower the Scamp back off of the stabilizers?

Thanks.
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Old 03-26-2017, 05:41 PM   #2
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Lowering Scamp off of rear stabilizers

When you say "up on stabilizers" do you mean supported on the factory rear stabilizers with the wheels on the ground? Or do you have the wheels hanging off the ground?

If the wheels are on the ground, all you do is lower the tongue jack until the stabilizers are loose, then stow them.

If the wheels are off the ground (which is an improper use of the stabilizers!!) you're going to have to use a separate jack to lift the frame to take pressure off the stabilizers.
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Old 03-26-2017, 05:46 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill MN View Post
First time I've had my Scamp up on stabilizers. How do I reverse the jacking action to lower the Scamp back off of the stabilizers?

Thanks.
If you have the factory Attwood stabalizers there is a short pedal that you must push down on to release the stabalizer . Some times this requires that you take your foot and push down HARD on the pedal for it to release. Once the pedal has released the stabalizer , the lower half of the stabalizer will slide upward.
As Jon pointed out the stabalizers are not designed for jacking up the trailer so the wheels are off the ground. They are only intended to stabalize the trailer not carry the full weight of the trailer
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Old 03-26-2017, 05:58 PM   #4
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Name: Bill
Trailer: Scamp 13 Std.
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Thanks guys, no I didn't have the tires off the ground, I was just trying to figure out how to use them on my new scamp. I did watch a YouTube video and they made it clear how to do it so I went out and did it. It worked fine. Just back in the house and saw your replies. I wish fuller instructions would be in the owners manual, though.

Thanks
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Old 03-26-2017, 06:13 PM   #5
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Have you checked out the video tutorials on the Scamp website? They're not super detailed, but they're better than the print manual.

Best wishes with your new Scamp. Fun times ahead!
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Old 03-26-2017, 06:49 PM   #6
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Trailer: Scamp 13 Std.
Minnesota
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Yes, I've checked out both the video tutorials at the Scamp website and the printed manual. You're right, they are helpful but not detailed enough for a newbie, like me.

There are also errors on the website that haven't been changed. The Scamp website says 18" to the top of the ball for a 13. Calling Scamp because it didn't sound or look right to me, they said it was an error and should read 16". Also on the website they say that the lug nuts are 3/4", but when I picked up the Scamp in Backus they told me that they have been changed to 13/16".

Again the Scamp website and manual are helpful, but they both could be a little better. Thanks to experienced folks like you for supplying the missing knowledge and for being patient with newbies like me!

Bill
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Old 03-27-2017, 12:07 PM   #7
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Name: Peg
Trailer: 2016 -13' Scamp
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I take the stabilizer "crank handle" - the black bar - and just give the pedal a quick whack. It releases easily.

Whack, whack. Done!
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Old 03-27-2017, 12:36 PM   #8
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I'm trying to understand why you have to whack or stomp on anything. When I lower the tongue, the stabilizer jacks lift off the ground. With no pressure on them I can release the lever to retract the leg with one finger.

To set up, I level the trailer (side-to side with lego blocks and front-to-back with the tongue jack). Then I lower the tongue jack 6 cranks, drop the stabilizers, then raise the tongue jack back up 6 cranks. The last step transfers weight to the stabilizers. To take down, just reverse the process, no tools required.

What "black bar"?
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Old 03-27-2017, 12:46 PM   #9
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Name: Jim
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Jon

I've always used the "wack method " but I now will use your 6" lower method . Thanks ! , once again common sense will prevail.
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Old 03-27-2017, 12:49 PM   #10
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Jon

Sorry , 6 crank method . I'm good at not editing my reply befor submitting.
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Old 03-27-2017, 12:51 PM   #11
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Name: Darral
Trailer: Scamp Standard 13' 2010
Tennessee
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Mine came with an apx 12" lg silver-coated (zinc) bar. Those stabilizers are VERY aggravating...have been since the beginning and 7 yrs later- still are! But guess what...They work! But getting use to them is a royal pain in the wazoo......same for the Catalina Dometic "windowshade" awning!

I "tweak" my leveling with the stabilizers and they work fine. Just a "bump" or two. Some may not agree but it works. IF there's too much pressure on them, then I have to lower the tongue. MOST of the time, I simply take my foot and push down on the black lever and they release.

If you guys could have seen my first few setups at the campground (concerning these stabilizers), yall would have FREAKED! Looking back on it...I do!

All in all? RVing can be a challenge!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
I'm trying to understand why you have to whack or stomp on anything. When I lower the tongue, the stabilizer jacks lift off the ground. With no pressure on them I can release the lever to retract the leg with one finger.

To set up, I level the trailer (side-to side with lego blocks and front-to-back with the tongue jack). Then I lower the tongue jack 6 cranks, drop the stabilizers, then raise the tongue jack back up 6 cranks. The last step transfers weight to the stabilizers. To take down, just reverse the process, no tools required.

What "black bar"?
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Old 03-27-2017, 01:07 PM   #12
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Name: bob
Trailer: 1984 u-haul ct13; 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
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I use shortened screw stabilizers on the front, so first I have to get them out before I can lower the front to get pressure off the rear telescoping stabilizers. So rather than cranking down, go to the back and get the stabilizers up, go back and crank front up to hitch up, I'll sometimes do the whack method. Or better yet, put the bar in, take pressure off the latch, let stabilizer retract, pull out bar, Slide up and fold stabilizer. Instead of the standard round bar I have a big old wood handle screwdriver with the end rounded off to adjust my stabilizers. Now we need to start a lengthy discussion as to whether it is safe to pry with a screwdriver.
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Old 03-27-2017, 01:56 PM   #13
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Bob, I don't understand why you can't crank up to remove the front stabilizers and then down to remove the rears. But maybe your way is faster- less walking back and forth to the tongue jack.

I guess we all just have different ways of doing things. Mine didn't come with any tool to ratchet the stabilizer jacks down under pressure, and I had no idea there was any such tool, so I figured out how to do it without.

Having grown up with a tent trailer using 4 free-standing screw-type stabilizers, I find the Atwoods brilliantly simple. Mine have never been the least bit finicky. Maybe it's because I have never tried to extend or retract them under pressure.

In any case, I'm sure there are more important things to discuss...
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Old 03-27-2017, 02:14 PM   #14
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Name: Darral
Trailer: Scamp Standard 13' 2010
Tennessee
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Jon, out of curiosity, does yours look like this? These are identical to mine and they show the metal rod we speak of. One thing I do as an extra "precaution" is I wrap mine with a strap (secured to the rear bumper) when they're in the "up" position or stowed away. I was at a rally and had the director telling us about his coming down on a trip...it was NOT a pretty site.

https://www.etrailer.com/Camper-Jack...FQmBswodoiQBlQ

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
Having grown up with a tent trailer using 4 free-standing screw-type stabilizers, I find the Atwoods brilliantly simple. Mine have never been the least bit finicky. Maybe it's because I have never tried to extend or retract them under pressure.
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Old 03-27-2017, 02:24 PM   #15
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Trailer: 1984 u-haul ct13; 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
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[QUOTE=Jon in AZ;633000]Bob, I don't understand why you can't crank up to remove the front stabilizers and then down to remove the rears. But maybe your way is faster- less walking back and forth to the tongue jack.

I guess we all just have different ways of doing things. Mine didn't come with any tool to ratchet the stabilizer jacks down under pressure, and I had no idea there was any such tool, so I figured out how to do it without.

Jon, actually most times I do crank the front, just a couple turns and I can slide the front stabilizers out. Then I will usually crank the front down because sometimes otherwise there isn't enough room to fold the stabilizers up. The "tool" is just a 1/2" round rod, stick it in the round hole, all the way through and push down to put pressure on the stabilizer. I bought a couple of the rods when I ordered new stabilizers for our Uhaul, but like the screwdriver better.
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Old 03-27-2017, 02:40 PM   #16
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Name: Peg
Trailer: 2016 -13' Scamp
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Okay, it's a silver bar, not black. It's the handle you use to crank up the stabilizers.

I give the stabilizer a whack (more like a tap) because I like to save steps. Your method is fine re: cranking down the tongue. But then I have to go back up front and crank up the tongue again to get it onto the tow ball. This way is quick and easy for me - grab the silver handle, walk to the rear, tap, tap again, and I'm done.

I also have a small screwdriver in hand and next proceed to the refrigerator vent, open the hatch, and turn the fridge to 12V for travel. Then I continue to the TUG, back up and hitch up, etc.

We all walk a different path in life. Just sharing something that has worked well for me.
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Old 03-27-2017, 03:37 PM   #17
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Trailer: 2018- 21FT- FORD
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My stabalizers have developed a nice reddish brown patina
(Rust) from driving on the heavily salted roads in the Midwest .
I have cleaned them and lubricated them but on occasion they still stick and are difficult to release or retract. Sometimes it takes a good kick or wack to make them work . I cleaned and painted mine again today so they are ready for this summer but next Spring I will have to repeat the process.
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Old 03-28-2017, 09:20 PM   #18
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Name: E
Trailer: Aliner
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Originally Posted by steve dunham View Post
My stabalizers have developed a nice reddish brown patina

(Rust) from driving on the heavily salted roads in the Midwest .

I have cleaned them and lubricated them but on occasion they still stick and are difficult to release or retract. Sometimes it takes a good kick or wack to make them work . I cleaned and painted mine again today so they are ready for this summer but next Spring I will have to repeat the process.


I was wondering if I should paint them or just keep wiping them with oil?
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Old 04-03-2017, 06:15 AM   #19
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Trailer: 2003 Casita 17' SD Deluxe, Towed by '09 Honda Ridgeline.
Georgia
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Those stabilizers are the one thing that makes "set up" very aggravating for me. It may be because my Casita seems to be so close to the ground. And it is hard to reach under and get them into motion. With a high lift axle it may not be a problem.

Otherwise they are the most HATEFUL device on the camper.

USUALLY if the trailer is level they will not swing to their down and locked position, because they hit the ground. Therefore the front needs to be lowered. Then they will complete their "swing and lock". Then raise the front again until trailer is level. If lucky on a rough campsite one or both didn't press hard on the ground while re-leveling. Retracting gets into the same hassle but in reverse.

In spite of lubrication they seem to be difficult to release to lower or raise.
Last trip I had to lay down to get one of them to pull down enough to release for the swing back up. That would have not be at all pleasant doing in the rain.

To quote from a movie, "I'm mad as hell, and not going to take it any more".

I just installed a pair of "Scissor" stabilizers. Bolted them on so in case one gets damaged it will be easy to replace.

(2) RV Scissor Lift Jacks Stabilizer Trailer Leveling Camper Cargo Wrench Socket | eBay

NOTE: These are stabilizers, not jacks.

Thought I would use the drill to operate them, but the handle will lower or raise them in just a few seconds, about 5 turns on my camper. The screw has very wide threads. Now I can get the trailer level, then lower the stabilizers. With ease!

k



Quote:
Originally Posted by Darral T. View Post
Mine came with an apx 12" lg silver-coated (zinc) bar. Those stabilizers are VERY aggravating...have been since the beginning and 7 yrs later- still are! But guess what...They work! But getting use to them is a royal pain in the wazoo......same for the Catalina Dometic "windowshade" awning!

I "tweak" my leveling with the stabilizers and they work fine. Just a "bump" or two. Some may not agree but it works. IF there's too much pressure on them, then I have to lower the tongue. MOST of the time, I simply take my foot and push down on the black lever and they release.

If you guys could have seen my first few setups at the campground (concerning these stabilizers), yall would have FREAKED! Looking back on it...I do!

All in all? RVing can be a challenge!
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Old 04-03-2017, 07:13 AM   #20
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Name: bob
Trailer: 1984 u-haul ct13; 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,036
[QUOTE=Kip in Ga.;633901]Those stabilizers are the one thing that makes "set up" very aggravating for me. It may be because my Casita seems to be so close to the ground. And it is hard to reach under and get them into motion. With a high lift axle it may not be a problem.

They can be difficult because it's an awkward direction they have to be pulled at, not like pulling towards you. To me, it is what it is, that's what I have to do. An extra few steps doesn't bother me at all.
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