Lowering scissor jack

[Txlmt58]

What size drill do I need for lowering my scissor jacks and leveling power.
The one I have is now powerful enough to level camper, it lowers the jacks but that last couple turns are manually powered? Need power advice please
Thanks
Linda T

[redbarron55]

I am looking at the stabilizers that one leg extends down with the screw (I don't know what to call them) and I have the same question.
I am thinking about installing 4 (1000 lbs rating each).
The ones I an thinking about have the one leg that cranks down and I was going to put the front ones lengthwise with the trailer and the rear side ways an maybe that hill help control the "wobble"
I have the same question for those that use this type.
I have gotten where I hate messing with the Attwood type of stabilizers. I like the idea of walking around with a drill and not having to get on my knees to work those D*&^% Attwood style.
In the past I have carried cheap Harbor Freight hydraulic jacks to level and they help stabilize, but again hands and knees to get them under the frame.

[John in Michigan]

On my 1979 Boler 17 (weighs about 2500 lbs. dry/empty) the scissor jacks are mounted front to back in the front corners and left to right in the back corners. I've just started using a rechargeable drill. Just a basic Milwaukee 12 volt drill, and it quickly deploys the jacks and can lift the trailer as long as the battery is fully charged. Of course I don't try to lift the trailer much after the jack pad contacts the ground, maybe an inch or so.

You may need to grease the jack screws.

[John in Michigan]

I will say that the scissor jacks on the Boler 17 are much more convenient and effective than the atwood jacks on the Trillium 4500.

[gyuill]

There may be exceptions but those devices on the corners are not for leveling. They are for stabilizing only.

Graham
Opelika

[Cliff Hotchkiss]

Originally Posted by Txlmt58

What size drill do I need for lowering my scissor jacks and leveling power.
The one I have is now powerful enough to level camper, it lowers the jacks but that last couple turns are manually powered? Need power advice please
Thanks
Linda T

The scissors jacks on most trailers are not for leveling just stabilization. If you stall any decent drill your putting too much pressure on the jacks and maybe the frame. You level left to right using wheels and front to back using tongue jack.

[John in Michigan]

Originally Posted by gyuill

There may be exceptions but those devices on the corners are not for leveling. They are for stabilizing only.

Graham
Opelika

I agree with Graham. I misspoke. Never use a stabilizer jack to lift the weight of the trailer, or risk bending the frame. Use shims, blocks, etc. under the wheels and the tongue jack to level the trailer.

[redbarron55]

I rebuilt the frame and I plan to use the jacks to level or raise.
The older frames used a lighter gauge frame and were barely able to handle the towing loads as evidenced by the many instances of the frame cracking at the bends in the front.
Since my trailer frame is both made from thicker tubing and that frame is reinforced with tubing from the main frame to the fiberglass shell and that shell is bonded to it along the edges I am going to chance it.
Not only that, but I am not going to mount them at the extreme end of the frame to the back bumper.
I hope to be able to use the two jacks on one side to be able to lift the trailer enough to change a tire and not have to carry another jack.
I also hope to tame the jiggle of walking around in the middle of the night with one set at right angles to another.
I have no mounting problem at the front as I have added a solid cross member in front of the door and in front of the shell, whichever looks best.
I will have to add something aft of the wheels to have a cross member as well as space the jacks down some to clear the added plumbing drains added to the system so that I have a single point macerating pump the empty the tanks.
My plan is to first lower the nose so that the rear is raised and then level the rear since the front is a single point contact. Once the rear is leveled then raise the front with the Ultimate jack and then engage the front jacks for final trim.
The drill should make if much faster.

[Cliff Hotchkiss]

Originally Posted by redbarron55

I rebuilt the frame and I plan to use the jacks to level or raise.
The older frames used a lighter gauge frame and were barely able to handle the towing loads as evidenced by the many instances of the frame cracking at the bends in the front.
Since my trailer frame is both made from thicker tubing and that frame is reinforced with tubing from the main frame to the fiberglass shell and that shell is bonded to it along the edges I am going to chance it.
Not only that, but I am not going to mount them at the extreme end of the frame to the back bumper.
I hope to be able to use the two jacks on one side to be able to lift the trailer enough to change a tire and not have to carry another jack.
I also hope to tame the jiggle of walking around in the middle of the night with one set at right angles to another.
I have no mounting problem at the front as I have added a solid cross member in front of the door and in front of the shell, whichever looks best.
I will have to add something aft of the wheels to have a cross member as well as space the jacks down some to clear the added plumbing drains added to the system so that I have a single point macerating pump the empty the tanks.
My plan is to first lower the nose so that the rear is raised and then level the rear since the front is a single point contact. Once the rear is leveled then raise the front with the Ultimate jack and then engage the front jacks for final trim.
The drill should make if much faster.

I think you’re talking about BAL stabilizers. Also think they are not recommended for lifting again only stabilizing.

[John in Michigan]

The majority of molded FGRV frames are not sturdy enough to be lifted by corners. This also means don't put down rear stabilizer jacks, blocks, etc and then try jacking up the entire trailer using the tongue jack. Tongue jacks are generally rated to lift the weight of a FGRV, but the frames are light weight and will bend and twist .

[GOB]

I use a Porter Cable 1/2 in. 20 volt. It has 2 speeds.