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06-18-2020, 09:47 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Name: Mike
Trailer: Escape 21 & Jeep GC 5.7 (Previous 2012 Casita FD17 & 2010 Audi Q5)
Puget Sound, WA
Posts: 1,775
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MSFrancis
So we left Mankato a day early and the trip home is 100 miles. I checked the battery charge when we got back and it was around 12 V so it did charge.
Since then we have run the Maxx brand fan at a higher setting for a total of 4.5 hours and the LED lights are now very weak.
Does 4.5 hrs with the fan exhausting at a high setting seem reasonable?
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As noted by others, 12 volts is nearly discharged. The fans can draw around 3 amps of current on higher speeds. A "100 amp hour" battery can only supply about 50 amp hours before you start getting to the levels below 12 volts where you start damaging the battery.
4.5 hours at 3 amps equals 4.5 x 3 = an additional 13.5 amp hours drained from a battery which was already low. It adds up quickly.
A cheap volt meter that plugs into the "cigarette lighter" socket in the trailer is invaluable to monitor the battery's health.
__________________
~ “It’s absurd to divide people into good and bad. People are either charming or tedious.” Oscar Wilde ~
~ “What the human being is best at doing is interpreting all new information so that their prior conclusions remain intact.” Warren Buffett ~
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06-19-2020, 04:40 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Trailer: 13 ft Compact II
Posts: 524
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Power Pack
Quote:
Originally Posted by floyd
If you are boondocking and have jumper cables with you....
You could bring the charge up in less than a 1/2hr with the TV and a good set of cables.
Then you should be good for a few days.
If it turns out that your battery is shot, it should still be under warranty.
I have increased my battery size from group 24 to group 27.
I like the added reserve, but I did it primarily because the 27 has twice the warranty.
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Hi Floyd,
Do you think one of there could charge up an Interstate deep cell marine battery size 24, if one was to run it down a bit dry camping?
https://cloreautomotive.com/product/jnc660/
Francene
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06-19-2020, 06:26 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Name: Walter
Trailer: 2017 Escape 17B
SW Virginia
Posts: 2,255
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A jumper box like that is for providing a brief, high current for starting a depleted car (or truck) battery. The battery would then be charged by the alternator as the vehicle runs over appreciable time.
Charging a depleted trailer battery is a different matter and would require a steady, lower current over several hrs, not something a jumper box would be capable of.
I hope that's clear. It reads a bit awkward, but I can't think how to say it better.
Walt
__________________
Past owner of 1995 13' Casita, 1994 16' Casita, 2012 Parkliner, 2002 17' Bigfoot.
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06-19-2020, 07:28 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Trailer: 13 ft Compact II
Posts: 524
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That's what the Clore website says, you are correct. I just saw Floyd's post where he said these could be used.
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06-20-2020, 11:30 AM
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#26
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: Roamer 1
Smith Valley, Nevada
Posts: 2,892
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Quote:
Originally Posted by floyd
If you are boondocking and have jumper cables with you....
You could bring the charge up in less than a 1/2hr with the TV and a good set of cables.
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This is what I did before I got solar. I found this to work faster than a generator, and it's
less annoying. So I left the generator at home.
The only time it did not work was at North Rim, when a ranger came by and told be I could not idle the truck to charge my battery!? Generators were fine, but no idling.
Since then I've connected the trailer to the truck with an Anderson plug and that is a great way to charge, both while driving and while parked.
__________________
I only exaggerate enough to compensate for being taken with a grain of salt.
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06-20-2020, 07:55 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
Posts: 8,520
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Quote:
Originally Posted by francene
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I did it at Mid Ohio Racetrack during the runoffs.
So yes. especially if it were "just run down a bit".
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06-20-2020, 08:00 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
Posts: 8,520
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WaltP
A jumper box like that is for providing a brief, high current for starting a depleted car (or truck) battery. The battery would then be charged by the alternator as the vehicle runs over appreciable time.
Charging a depleted trailer battery is a different matter and would require a steady, lower current over several hrs, not something a jumper box would be capable of.
I hope that's clear. It reads a bit awkward, but I can't think how to say it better.
Walt
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Good point ...One thing which must be made clear is that I suggested jumper cables , certainly not a jumper box. Thanx
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06-24-2020, 11:16 AM
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#29
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Member
Name: Tracy
Trailer: Scamp 13, 1980
AZ
Posts: 35
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A decent solar charger will help you. I keep an 8w trickle charger on mine all the time and it works great.
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06-24-2020, 11:55 AM
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#30
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Member
Name: Tom
Trailer: Amerigo
Wisconsin
Posts: 73
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Charging trailer with vehicle
Charging a trailer battery using the tow vehicle in not a good idea. It can be made to work with some really heavy wires to get the "current" to the other battery from the tow vehicle. However with all the electronics in today's cars putting that kind of load on your alternator is a very bad idea. Those electronics need specific volts and amps for them to work right. If you insist on doing this have a heavy duty alternator install so you have the extra capacity for this load.
In my case I have an extra large battery and a small generator. So I have more storage capacity and a way to charge things up.
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06-24-2020, 12:41 PM
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#31
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Member
Name: Herb
Trailer: Scamp 19' 5th Wheel
TX
Posts: 33
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Hi MS,
Depends on what amps the fan needs. The age of the battery can contribute as well. Make sure next trip to take along a volt meter. Boondocking they are a must have. Hopefully your tow vehicles connected to the RV going to and from campsite. A set of battery cables will help charge the battery to 13 volts if you don't have a solar panel and the tow vehicle connection isn't working. Have the battery checked out when you get home. If your battery is lead acid type I recommend you purchase a ACM deep cell 100 mAmp (Group 27 battery) and set up a solar system. Hope your next trip is a happier one full of precious memories.
Yank
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06-24-2020, 06:35 PM
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#32
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Junior Member
Name: Philip
Trailer: Keystone Cougar
Colorado
Posts: 3
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I would say:
Get 7 pin plug repaired so while driving it will charge the RV battery.
I would get a second battery if there is room for the trailer
Buy either some version of a solar panel to charge the battery OR my choice would be a Honda or Harbor Freight generator to keep everything charged while camping.
Does your RV have A/C or just a exhaust fan.
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06-25-2020, 10:04 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
Posts: 8,520
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigangelman
Charging a trailer battery using the tow vehicle in not a good idea. It can be made to work with some really heavy wires to get the "current" to the other battery from the tow vehicle. However with all the electronics in today's cars putting that kind of load on your alternator is a very bad idea. Those electronics need specific volts and amps for them to work right. If you insist on doing this have a heavy duty alternator install so you have the extra capacity for this load.
In my case I have an extra large battery and a small generator. So I have more storage capacity and a way to charge things up.
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WOW,
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