I want to make a new table for the Boler but I really suck at putting the laminate on the edges (been there, tried that) I am looking for that T moulding seen on most RVs, arcade games etc. I tried searching the net and found some in the USA but no luck in Canada so far, has anybody run across this stuff 5/8" or 1 1\4" would be perfect.
That looks awesome Scott - our indestructible 1950's kitchen table looks just like that.
I have laminated the edge of bathroom counters before. I just made it wider then the edge and then ran a router w/ straight bit and roller bead around it. Mind you, the edge of a counter is much wider then the tables in a trailer.
That aluminium trim looks great! where can I get some ?
The table edge is only 5/8" and the router is hard to control also any little snag on the laminate and the first person to get up from the table takes a chunk of it with them. I was thinking of putting a second piece of 5/8 around the outside edge increasing the thickness to 1 1/4" and then lowering the ledgers on the sides for the bed.
I am also making the table 6" shorter so us old portly people can get in easier!
Another option is to use wood for the table, and router the table edge with a round-off bit. Then you have a nice smooth edge, and don't have to worry about laminates or edging.
I got the trim at Home Depot in the same aisle as the wood door molding and baseboard. lots of different widths, colors and styles too. I think this job cost me $8.00
Another option is to use wood for the table, and router the table edge with a round-off bit. Then you have a nice smooth edge, and don't have to worry about laminates or edging.
When I use a round off bit on plywood I always end up with a few gaps, where the plywood is laminated, did you fill this after? what did you use?
"When I use a round off bit on plywood I always end up with a few gaps, where the plywood is laminated, did you fill this after? what did you use?"
I used baltic birch which doesn't have voids. You can also use "appleply", which is another high quality birch ply. If you use the cheap stuff from HomeDepot, you can fill the voids with wood putty filler after routing.
I'll go in search of some materials and work out something, The T moulding router bit would cost as much as a whole sheet of plywood and that aluminum edge looks like a good alternative as well.
I just used oak plywood and ironed on the heat glue wood trim that comes by the roll (al little wider than the plywood). The extra width easily trims off with a razor knife like I use to open boxes after you iron it on. Then just stained and varnished it all at the same time.
I just used oak plywood and ironed on the heat glue wood trim that comes by the roll (al little wider than the plywood). The extra width easily trims off with a razor knife like I use to open boxes after you iron it on. Then just stained and varnished it all at the same time.
[quote]Another option is to use wood for the table, and router the table edge with a round-off bit. Then you have a nice smooth edge, and don't have to worry about laminates or edging.
That was our solution, we just sanded the edges till they were "rounded" enough to make them smooth, and I put a nice mohogany finish on the table, and a clear coat to seal it. I won't know how well this holds up until we have had time to use it, but it seems to be a good solution to us. Good luck with your table!
Here's one made from reclaimed Redwood fence boards with end pieces to finish it off. A little bracing underneath and several coats of Polyurathane and it's been in use for 5-6 years.
I made my table a little like a picture frame. I made a solid wood (maple) frame into which I set 1/2" ply. The ply was recessed to have a bit of plexiglass to cover travel photos.
I haven't had a problem with spills leaking under the plexi although I'm not all that worried since I'd just print out another copy of the picture.
I just bought another of those sockets to screw to the underside for the table leg.
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Without adult supervision...
Quando omni flunkus, moritati.
Also,
I'm a man, but I can change, if I have to, I guess.
Very kool, I know now why I saved the metal bracket strip on the outside of the trailer when re-gelcoated the body. You have me thinking I should put it back on and make a table that I can carry in the tug till I arrive since I always put my folding table in the same position. Where did you get the folding leg ( I re-used the original for the new inside table)?
We just used the Birch Ply with an angle cut on the edges.
Replaced all that messy Scamp table hardware with two aluminum rv stanchions which made a great improvement in looks and stability of the table.
Would you mind telling/showing more about that stowage shelf above the table? It looks like it's a bit deeper than the stock fiberglass cubicles (?).
Raya,
That was a mod that appeared to have been done by the Previous Owner or PO. I don't think it was factory, but one never knows with old ones like this. There is a unit in both the front and the rear of the trailer and they were covered with 1970's era brown paneling. So being a big HGTV fan I knew what they usually do with 1970's era paneling is tear it out or paint it. I painted it with the same Zinsser Perma-White that I redid the elephant hide with and they came out pretty good, so I kept them. They are a bit deeper then the stock fiberglass ones I think and so far they're holding up well enough that I haven't wanted to change them out. You may notice also if you look real close at the photo that I have two 12" cold cathode lights(thanks to Gina D) over the table which used to be a flourescent fixture. All of my lighting was converted to LED and Cold Cathode in the gut and redo.