Making B1700 logging-road proof? - Fiberglass RV
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Old 01-06-2009, 01:16 PM   #1
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that's right, no hard core off-roading or rock crawling , but how to make an egg more tolerant to backcountry bumpy trails, logging roads and ocasional cruising on cutlines. Any suggestios?

Things I can think of now:

-- moderate body lift of 4 to 5 inches, obviosly a new (straight?) axle (6000lbs rated?)
-- larger D class tires (how big I can go?)
(^^ those two to gain more clearance)
-- extra wide tires? (for soft surfaces) Pros/cons of these?
-- lighttening it up (looooong term project; for instance I don't see myself using owen in the bush, fridge? Eh.. maybe; but cooling beer in the stream requires way less mainenance if done with some due precaution and have insane idea to have wood burning stove in (some day)..., but I still want to keep my egg somewhat family-friendly, so toilet STAYS )
-- light skid plates (?) and
-- water/dirt/rock proofing on underbelly (will Kool Seal Elastometric Roof Coating do the trick, especialy if applied on plywood (prepping?)?)

Thanks!
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Old 01-06-2009, 02:16 PM   #2
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It seems I may be one of the first in here, so here goes:
(disclaimer--this is only one man's opinion)

I would not bother with a body lift, as it won't do anything to raise the rest of the frame. I would likely start with the straight axle swap in whatever rating you deem necessary (6000lb sounded good), and I would use the longest flattest leaf springs I could get that are capable of carrying the weight of the trailer, plus gear, plus extras, plus an extra margin for piece of mind.

I suggest leafs because they are robust (logging trailers used them for years), and longer/flatter have better ride characteristics. One other beauty of leaf spring suspension is simplicity. You will be able to find parts almost anywhere, and a well installed setup will allow you to tailor the lift requirements to fit whatever tire you desire. Designing a suspension should also be a cakewalk, just weld on a couple of brackets to match your axle/spring combination to your wheelwell location.
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Old 01-06-2009, 02:17 PM   #3
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I should've added that a body lift will also place unnecessary stress on the body mount bolts.
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Old 01-06-2009, 03:11 PM   #4
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Thanks Paul

"as it won't do anything to raise the rest of the frame."

Sorry if was not clear; under "the body lift" I meant make a frame sit higher. Catchin a bump with an axle is one deal and most likely it will survive it; but crushed gray/black/fresh water tank is another...

Sorry for all those nub questions, just getting myself familiar with my egg...
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Old 01-06-2009, 06:36 PM   #5
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Actually, from what I've read on most of these forums, your quest is unique in that you are trying to prep your egg instead of changing your needs.

As to skid plates, if the tanks are located close to the axle, then all you'd likely need would be a chunk of 16, or 14 ga sheet metal to deflect rocks.

Somewhere on this forum is a post about a small woodstove designed for marine use that has been repurposed for an egg. The stove is called a "Sardine".

For protective undercoatings, I'd suspect that any spray on undercoating would cover your needs unless you were planning to turn your Boler into a boat.
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Old 01-06-2009, 07:06 PM   #6
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Actually, from what I've read on most of these forums, your quest is unique in that you are trying to prep your egg instead of changing your needs.

As to skid plates, if the tanks are located close to the axle, then all you'd likely need would be a chunk of 16, or 14 ga sheet metal to deflect rocks.

Somewhere on this forum is a post about a small woodstove designed for marine use that has been repurposed for an egg. The stove is called a "Sardine".

For protective undercoatings, I'd suspect that any spray on undercoating would cover your needs unless you were planning to turn your Boler into a boat.
Thanks again! I'll look this "sardine" up. Remark on the boat was funny but I only want mild rock protection, washability and rot prevention (if it helps)

Steel? I was thinking aluminum, even perforated aluminum.

Any comments on wheels? Especially extra wide ones?
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Old 01-06-2009, 08:14 PM   #7
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Thanks again! I'll look this "sardine" up. Remark on the boat was funny but I only want mild rock protection, washability and rot prevention (if it helps)

Steel? I was thinking aluminum, even perforated aluminum.

Any comments on wheels? Especially extra wide ones?
i am interested in seeing what you do here.

as for the "skid plates" i would suggest you use some 1/8" aluminum 60-61. it is strong enough to do what you want it to do. it will inhibit dents and bends and stay light.
it is my intention to use some of this on the underside of a box i plan to build under the egg. for me weight is very important so i always keep it in mind while putting these things together.

as for the 6000# axle.... holy schmokes! that thing will be bouncing down the trail. you might think about coilovers or something more fun. what is your budget on this project?
if you have welding skills and and handle some geometry, it would sure be neat to see a pair of coilovers and a 4 link on a boler.
it wouldn't be a cheap project, but it would be fun and challenging.

something like this



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Old 01-06-2009, 09:42 PM   #8
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do a Net search for:
offroad trailers
offroad campers

They seem to have these more in Austalia than here in US. Searching thru their stuff may give you suspension ideas.

Also their is a website called Expedition Portal. This is where folk hang out that are more oriented to your goals. Might be something there in their forums about trailer suspension.

There has been some discusion in here on this topic. Reason I know is cause I started the threads or brought it up in other threads.

I believe you can go to my member info. Usually there is a button to go to a list of all the "threads" started by a member. Hit that and sift thru all my threads to find the ones on this topic.

You might also search this board in general for:

offroad
Unimog

These key words might bring you some stuff. I put Unimog in the list cause lot of my offroad stuff will mention Unimog.
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Old 01-06-2009, 09:48 PM   #9
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Another idea is ... don't reinvent the wheel. Buy a used Miliary trailer and swap parts. Check Gov. Auctions. Buy one in the weight range of your Egg full. Not sure if that exist though.

I'm going to use an old Generator Trailer (M105A5) but that would be overkill for you. Maybe an old M101 (if I remember the numbers right) is more to your needs. Or even an older military "Jeep" trailer.

well....... on search the old Jeep trailer may be too light

Check it out here

By The Way... Steel Soldiers would be a great resource for military trailer info.

Oh and I do have a friend selling an offroad camper. Little heavier than an egg though. Ok... lot heavier than an egg. It's a Unimog box on a US miliatary Trailer. You could gut each and put the Egg stuff in the Military one for better camper interior. But you can't stand in it. Have seen folk put a rolling bar stool.. or a stationary... in this type setup. Infact that is what the Germans did in the Unimog. Rolling chairs on a track.
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Old 01-06-2009, 10:37 PM   #10
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Erik: The 6000lb axle we're referring to is a straight (not dexter type) axle that has no suspension of it's own. The weight rating mostly refers to the spindle strength.

George: I love the simplicity of yanking the shell, and plunking it onto a military trailer chassis. If you were to leave the decking on the trailer, you'd also take care of the skidplate issue. The deuce-and-a-half trailers would be too large/stiff, but perhaps a 5/4 trailer would work better. Neat approach at any rate. Then again, you may just wind up adding a pile of weight.

Post pics when you've got it finished if you could, please.
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Old 01-06-2009, 10:43 PM   #11
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Another idea is ... don't reinvent the wheel. Buy a used Miliary trailer and swap parts. Check Gov. Auctions. Buy one in the weight range of your Egg full. Not sure if that exist though.

I'm going to use an old Generator Trailer (M105A5) but that would be overkill for you. Maybe an old M101 (if I remember the numbers right) is more to your needs. Or even an older military "Jeep" trailer.

well....... on search the old Jeep trailer may be too light

Check it out here

By The Way... Steel Soldiers would be a great resource for military trailer info.

Oh and I do have a friend selling an offroad camper. Little heavier than an egg though. Ok... lot heavier than an egg. It's a Unimog box on a US miliatary Trailer. You could gut each and put the Egg stuff in the Military one for better camper interior. But you can't stand in it. Have seen folk put a rolling bar stool.. or a stationary... in this type setup. Infact that is what the Germans did in the Unimog. Rolling chairs on a track.
Coach George, with all due respect
At the best of my knowledge I'm going to war ... yet. I would think the frame of military surplus trailer will do the trick if fitted under the egg but otherwise all you have suggested is an overkill for my goals which as stated pretty far from hardcore offroading, budget concerns aside (I don't go to dirt for the sake of digging a dirt, if I stuck it signals me it's time to back up and have a walk that's why I did not even bother lifting FJ - only added body armor and rock rails ). I have had enough military stuff so what I'm looking for is the reasonably comfortable movable dwelling - for family in summer and for dad and his buddies, big or small, in the fall and early winter. That's it. Place to sleep, cook, have a breakfast and dinner, protected from elements and curious wildlife. Sturdy enough to withstand prolonged trips on logging roads with no major damage taken. I will dig through your topics anyway, especially related to suspension, thanks for sharing.

"1/8" aluminum 60-6" exactly my thought, thanks Erik

Looked up Sardine stove (16kg)... I think with AB weather surprises I will be safer with Little Cod (25kg) and let's see if I will be able to break even weight wise if I get rid of furnace, stove (replacing it with 2brnr cooktop), fridge ... water pump...some cabinetry....toilet... Ahhhrrrr! Need do some math and start saving and wait for tax return or a lottery. I also imagine how those smoke heads will sound at highway speeds Just kidding, of course they are removable.
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Old 01-09-2009, 10:15 AM   #12
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Before you decide to go with the "Little Cod" you might want to check out the Dickenson fireplaces that the yacht folks often use. They are small, safe and give a nice ambience with their visible flame, especially at night.
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Old 01-09-2009, 12:07 PM   #13
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If I'm readng it right those are propane only?
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Old 01-09-2009, 02:13 PM   #14
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If I'm reading it right those are propane only?
Dickinson also makes a solid fuel heater. However that model (contrary to what some illustrations show) does not have a window in the door. You can see a bit of flamage through the grille, I believe, but not the whole fire. They are considerably lighter and less expensive than the Navigator stoves, and might fit the bill depending on your usage. Of course they're less robust, too.

They're also bulkhead-mounted, as opposed to free standing.

Raya
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Old 01-10-2009, 07:30 AM   #15
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I'm SOOO glad to see this thread! I just started my own thread on the CasitaClub forum with the goal of building an off road 13' Casita. I've already gutted the egg and removed it from the frame. I plan on going to the metal yard today to buy materials for the new frame.
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Old 01-10-2009, 05:54 PM   #16
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Bill: I saw the thread on CC, and I must say I like your solution to the step in the rear of the frame. I wonder though, if you left the the cross member out of the main frame in the rear, would you lose any strength, or would it still be strong enough and leave you with more storage options?
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Old 01-14-2009, 10:50 AM   #17
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I don't know about B-1700 but our little 13 foot Scamperoonie will go where ever the TUG goes. I have had to chain up when the snow was too deep, and have had to turn around on dead end logging roads, where the trailer was dropped, swung around on the tongue wheel and re hitched to avoid a two mile back up. Be sure to keep wheel chocks handy when unhitching on uneven ground.

One thing I did when we remodeled two years ago was to replace all screws holding the body to the frame with new larger stainless #4 Self Tappers and big washers. On the corners, through frame bolts were used.

We have towed the Scamperoonie over the last fifteen years on 2 to 4 thousand miles a year of logging roads, clear cut skidder trails, and where ever there was no signs saying we could not go. I have even towed the trailer over Mosquito Pass in Colorado, 14,185 feet outside of Leadville, with eight miles of low range, first gear with a four banger Toyota 4x4. One of the roughest, gnarlyest roads I have ever personally driven, let alone pulling a trailer. That was with the original axle.

With a new 2300 LB Dexter, trailing arm, which required a subframe to be built, the trailer rides even better. But this is for a rig that fully packed will not go more than 1800 LBS.

These fiberglass eggs are much more durable than stick and panel trailers as the shell is unitized and moves with the frame. I have a pal with 16 Scamp, and he can go just about anywhere ever he wants, the key is to slow down when it is bumpy and rough.

Yes skid plates might be in order, go at least 1/8 inch steel or 3/16 alum as the last thing you want is tearing on a rock or sharp stump.

I might avoid going too heavy on the axle and spring rating, as then it gets so stiff, the tires and trailer take the pounding. Same with tires, taller may not hurt and will increase ground clearance, but if they are too heavy rated, and hard, then your trailer takes the beating again, loosening all the fasteners, rearranging everthing in the cabinets and drawers, breaking fittings loose from vibration.

Good luck on your quest.

Garo

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Old 07-30-2009, 01:47 PM   #18
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Made a 1K+ test flight, 600 clicks on hw, +400 on logging roads and trails of various condition, incliding moderate (8 to 12 inches deep) mud stretches up to 400m.

Stage I included: work on the roof, removing wheel flares, patching up wheel wells, new tires/rims, tongue box and it's undercarriage with lpg tanks mount. Next year I hope to replace an axle and work on planned wood-burning stove and rock shield (spray-on or roll-on stuff turned out to be just too weak for the purpose, rocks just go through it).

I changed wheels to 14'' and tires to 2000lbs load each, towmax 8-ply something, 28 1/2 inches diameter.
(Added square 2x2 steel tube spacers, and combined with new wheels gained 11'' clearance on old axle)
I removed fridge planning to made a little boat-style kitchen in it's space (now it's a luggage compartment), put LED lights, installed rear view camera, moved battery on the back (to equalize weight of tongue box and it's frame), added tie-down rings for gear in front and back near table and beds. All running gear is OK, tug is just fine.

The problem came from the least expected direction I overlooked, focusing on really important stuff.

What the most devastating thing after nuclear strike, tornado and an earthquake? Washboard!

At the trail end I found my trailer internals completely messed up like a handgrenade went off inside. Most of cabinet doors were torn off, stupid stove collapsed, overhead kitchen cabinet support bars just disintegrated (most of welding points broke off), significant sag on main door.

I'm reinforcing cabinetry doors right now (putting new spring hinges on bolts and adding inside door support plates), but would appreciate an advice on what replace support bars with and how to deal with door sag.
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Old 07-30-2009, 06:17 PM   #19
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Looking at your picture, I have one slight recommendation. It's better to tow tongue down than tongue up. Think of a fulcrum. You're putting all the weight on the axle and nearly none to the hitch. Towing more level, or at least with more weight on the tongue MAY alleviate some of the bounce on rougher roads.
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Old 07-30-2009, 06:57 PM   #20
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Aw man, I completely understand the issue. Washboard can wreck anything. I have seen posts on here regarding door sag, so that shouldn't be too difficult, as to the supports, I'm thinking either repair the factory offering (with a little extra beef), or have a look in the "interior" thread to get a few ideas.

Also, to add to another part of the topic, road signs are sometimes available from transportation ministries for reasonable prices, and can take an awful pile of abuse... I'm thinking they'd make reasonably good rock shielding.
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