Houses don't rattle the way trailers do (except houses in earthquake territory or beside train tracks), so their connectors don't have the same challenges. When I fixed my Boler's range hood fan I had to disconnect the wires, which were joined with Marrettes (or equivalent wire nuts): they were still working, but almost fell apart when I touched them. I would avoid adding any of this type of connector, but actually used a couple in my new light
fixture, because that's what I had at the time.
The original wire connections in my Boler
are generally crimped caps. They work (I haven't found any of these connections failed yet), but are a pain for modifications.
In an old discussion in this forum someone pointed me to the Posi-Products
line (sorry, the thread is lost and I can't remember who to credit). There are inline splice connectors (Posi-Lock), things that look like wire nuts (Posi-Twist), and a slick looking (haven't tried one yet) tap connector (Posi-Tap). While these are ridiculously expensive to buy in Canada, they seem like a good design to me, especially the Posi-Lock variation. My power and brake connections to my van's towing receptacle are done with Posi-Locks. If I were doing all-new wiring to clearance lights
, I would consider Posi-Taps; with existing wiring, I'm planning to join the incoming and outgoing (to the next light) wires into one side of a Posi-Lock splice, with the other end of the Posi-Lock holding a short pigtail to the light