Moving in to windows - Fiberglass RV
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Old 08-07-2021, 12:28 PM   #1
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Name: Courtney
Trailer: 1982 13ft Scamp purchased on May 2nd
Georgia
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Moving in to windows

After my mini-meltdown last night after finding water damage in my Scamp and following the advice of thrifty bill, I am making window repair my priority numero uno. Also per his advice, I’m starting on ONE. This one. It has a hurricane hinge at the top of the window and the panel pops out at the bottom.

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Before I did anything I just went out there and studied it. There were several failure points that I’m sure are working collectively to cause it to leak.

#1: The butyl tape has shrunk and cracked. Easy enough fix.

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#2: The glazing between the window pane and the metal frame was old and had pulled away from the acrylic. It was so loose that the window rattled in its frame.

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I’m going to buy the glazing that Jenny reference in this post: https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...ows-42049.html

3: The bulb seal that was on the window frame was taped ON TOP of the frame. There was no gasket keeping in place. This seal was pretty intact, though flattened, on the sides on bottom of the window, but the top edge had migrated significantly and left the entire top edge open to the elements.

Bulb seal intact.

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Bulb seal at top of window offering no protection.

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#4: The rubber rope-like gasket used to secure the screen in its channel was blocking about 3/4s of each of the two drain holes. When I reinstall this gasket, I will leave gaps in front of the holes so that they aren’t blocked.

Gasket in place = drain hole partially blocked.

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Gasket removed = drain hole open

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Old 08-07-2021, 02:09 PM   #2
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As I'm sure you know, besides the windows you'll also need to check all other fittings passing through the shell are watertight: individual rivets/fasteners, roof vent, door opening, drip cap, center seam, water, electric.

We've done a lot of garden hose testing and "field testing" on our trailers.
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Old 08-07-2021, 02:10 PM   #3
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That's a nice looking Scamp. Nice gel coat. Also like the ensolite.
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Old 08-07-2021, 03:54 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by John in Michigan View Post
As …check all other fittings passing through the shell are watertight: individual rivets/fasteners, roof vent, door opening, drip cap, center seam, water, electric.

The vent definitely leaked, but I’ve already removed that. Enlarging hole and installing a MaxxAir fan that was *supposed* to be here yesterday. Apparently their was a delay in getting product from the manufacturer and it’s now on back order

I have tons of holes to fill. Will work on those while I wait on the window parts to arrive.

I foresee our water hose getting a lot of use over the next few months. I’ve got to get some of the bigger holes filled before we can start the water tests.
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Old 08-07-2021, 07:56 PM   #5
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Well, THAT took a whole lot of effort. Who would’ve thought that ten little rivets would have been so
Incredibly hard to take out? Solicited my husband’s help because I could not get the flanges to separate from the windows to save my life he and I manhandled this thing for more than an hour. Fours hours, I’ve been trying to scrape out all of the silicone that is adhered to the inside flange of the window frame. Still not done. It’s stubborn and hard to see. Feel like a dental assistant painstakingly scraping plaque off someone’s teeth. Click image for larger version

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Old 08-07-2021, 09:09 PM   #6
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My Boler 17 had layers of silicone caulk gooped on everything. Its tough to remove from gel coat, but even more difficult to get off of aluminum trims and window frames. We used plastic razor blades, isopropyl alcohol and wd40. Finally, we did use silicone caulk remover for the difficult surfaces. Apparently applying heat also helps.
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Old 08-08-2021, 08:42 PM   #7
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Need suggestions. Drilled out the rivets from the frame that houses the first pop out window that I’m attempting to rehabbing. Figure I’d clean it up and reseat it with new butyl, but NOPE. The holes in three of the four corners were originally mis-drilled. No wonder the windows leak. On a curved surface, I’d think these four rivets would be the most important ones! One isn’t in tact at all and two barely have a sliver of fiberglass connecting them. How can I fix this? Can I build up the fiberglass around the compromised holes? See photos for better explanation. Click image for larger version

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Old 08-08-2021, 09:42 PM   #8
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Yes you can build up the edges by doing a fiberglass repair. It appears that the window flange overlaps the fiberglass body by a decent amount even in the corners. You'll be completely covering the back of the window flange with butyl tape to form the seal.

edit: From your picture, it appears you will only be able to extend the opening inward an 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch. For building up these edges, you'll want to use chopped strand mat cut into strips.
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Old 08-09-2021, 04:47 AM   #9
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Yes you can build up the edges by doing a fiberglass repair. It appears that the window flange overlaps the fiberglass body by a decent amount even in the corners. You'll be completely covering the back of the window flange with butyl tape to form the seal.

edit: From your picture, it appears you will only be able to extend the opening inward an 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch. For building up these edges, you'll want to use chopped strand mat cut into strips.


I read how to make patches and fill holes, but I’m not sure how you’d building up a 1/8 to 1/4 inch edge. I will put the window in to see how much wiggle room there is and add as much to it as I can for strength. I’ll search the forum, but please let me know if you have any ideas.

Also—I set up my window on the dining room table (table is protected by a quilt and a sheet). I’m waiting on the glazing strip and and seal to arrive. Meanwhile, I’m going to price having acrylic windows cut locally. Should I just get the same thickness that was in there. Seemed like there was so much play in the pane that I removed.

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Old 08-09-2021, 06:24 AM   #10
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Building up with fiberglass is a labor intensive effort that also requires skill and practice. First the surface has to be tapered, then several layers of fiberglass applied. You would be adding a much wider repair and then cutting it back to 1/8 to 1/4 inch.

I would also consider using epoxy rather than polyester resin as its much stronger and could probably be used without fiberglass fabric.

Concerning thickness of the glass, can't tell from your pics. Is there a rubber seal that fits into the glass channel? A glass shop could help you determine suitable thickness.
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Old 08-09-2021, 08:53 AM   #11
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Wow! Stripping those windows down to parts so the plexiglass can be replaced and getting proper seals is a major accomplishment in itself.

The seal is the overlap and the butyl as someone else mentioned. All that the fastener hole needs to do is allow the fastener to pull the window frame in tight.

I posted in the other thread a rivet on the inside can allow rivet or stainless steel machine screw to draw plenty tight. The other holes prevent the frame from sliding around so all the "thin" hole has to do is get the frame pulled tight so the butyl can seal.

Check to see if the local glass shop can get some 5/16 screen spline to hold the screen in the largest common size is 1/4 inch and that is too thin.
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