Maintenance & Restoration

David Tilston · 02-02-2015, 12:32 PM

It is beveled all the way around, so the long pieces at the top and bottom have a bevel on the ends, as well as one long side.

David Tilston · 02-02-2015, 12:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mikmay

David I used on the trilliums I've restored composit flat stock it's three times as expensive as wood but will never rot again . It does even out in price when compared to not having to buy a whole sheet of ply .

How heavy is the composite flat stock? is it 3/4" thick? Can it be obtained in 5", or 6" widths? Do you think it would hold a screw as well as plywood?

The shelves, curtain rods, windows, and upper bunk on the gaucho all mount to the window frames on a Trillium.

Mikmay · 02-02-2015, 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by David Tilston

How heavy is the composite flat stock? is it 3/4" thick? Can it be obtained in 5", or 6" widths? Do you think it would hold a screw as well as plywood?

The shelves, curtain rods, windows, and upper bunk on the gaucho all mount to the window frames on a Trillium.

David yes , yes and yes composite will cut and hold screws as well or better than wood. And you will no longer have any part part of the structure being wood a true non stick built trailer

David Tilston · 02-04-2015, 10:53 AM

Except for the plywood in the floor.

Colleeno · 02-05-2015, 09:36 AM

I am planning on replacing the wood around the windows this spring. I am planning on using "plastic wood" for the job (like that used to replace cedar decking). That stuff doesn't rot and will hold screws. I am already steeling myself for a nasty removal job. After I replace the wood inside the wall, and clean and re-install the windows, I am planning on making a wood "casing" to frame the window on the interior, something like 1/2 x 2 inch fir. I think it will look nice. The shelves attach at the top of the window, so I can't frame that out, but I can frame out the sides and bottoms -- maybe even install a window sill of sorts --

David Tilston · 02-05-2015, 09:48 AM

That is a good idea. The damage that I did to the Ensolite was covered by the shelves, but a wood frame, on the inside, around the window would cover any damage done while removing the plywood under the Ensolite.

Colleeno · 02-05-2015, 09:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by David Tilston

Except for the plywood in the floor.

David: Do you know if that plywood in the floor is replaceable? I assume it would need to be accessed from below the trailer because I don't see how you could get to it from the inside. I have a 1980 1300, and the floor beneath the dinette is a little squishy. I'm not sure if it matters -- it may be structurally important?

David Tilston · 02-05-2015, 10:10 AM

Colleen, I have never seen a thread where someone has replaced the plywood in the floor. It has been discussed at length though.
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...but-59274.html
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...e-67197-2.html

Actually, This guy did replace the wood under the dinette.
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ent-25926.html

To replace the plywood in the floor, in front of the kitchen, the best plan that I can come up with would be to cut out the bottom of the trailer. Actually just a flap. Maybe two sides of the square of outside fibreglass that covers the plywood, maybe three sides. I assume that the plywood is glued to the fibreglass, so removing it will be difficult. Then replace the plywood, (I would go with marine grade stuff). Then close the seams and paint. Doing this on the bottom of the trailer means that no one will see it, so it won't matter if you don't do it perfect.

Colleeno · 02-07-2015, 10:21 AM

I don't really mind much if the old floor squishes a bit -- however I do worry if the bolts that hold the egg to the trailer require that wood to keep the two attached. I've never taken one of these things apart so don't how where those bolts are -- I'm really hoping the flooring under the dinette isn't structurally important re those bolts. Any ideas?

David Tilston · 02-11-2015, 12:36 PM

Sorry I took so long to reply. The bolts are visible in the gaucho, and the dinette seats. On a 1300 there are six bolts. The wood around the bolts is accessible, inside the cupboards. So, it should be totally repairable.

Martins HeirCon · 02-01-2016, 01:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Martins HeirCon

Thanks. I wonder if marine plywood is necessary. Shouldn't be unless there's a leak again, right? I have enough scrap AB birch stuff to do the job.

David, are the corners mitered- so that it looks like a picture frame?

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Just to update: the pretty birch plywood from Home Depot is trash after a year, even along the top edge where one wouldn't expect wetness. I'm now replacing with marine fir plywood.

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David Tilston · 02-01-2016, 02:30 PM

The wood I used is fine, but I live in Calgary, (very dry) and I painted the wood before I installed it.

Mikmay · 02-01-2016, 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Martins HeirCon

Just to update: the pretty birch plywood from Home Depot is trash after a year, even along the top edge where one wouldn't expect wetness. I'm now replacing with marine fir plywood.

Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV

Check out post 19 ,I'd even stay away from the marine ply

Martins HeirCon · 02-01-2016, 08:52 PM

Too late! Already bought it and cut it up. I may use the remainder for my front dinette table and a countertop.

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Gennaver · 02-07-2016, 09:54 AM

Beautiful work.

I'm so happy with these spacious 4500s!!

Loving mine.

Jen
p.s. full time now for only 3 weeks, but...

Martins HeirCon · 02-09-2016, 07:28 AM

How does one know how much to tighten the window mounting screws? Tighten them until the aluminum contacts the fiberglass and there's no more excess butyl squeezing out? Or somewhere shy of that? I'm trying to see how to finish cleanly.
Also, what kind of caulk would be acceptable to use around the perimeter? I know it shouldn't be necessary, but there are some extra holes along the top edge that the butyl won't cover. Butyl caulk? Man is that stuff messy...

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David Tilston · 02-09-2016, 09:38 AM

I tighten till the butyl tape starts to ooze out. That way, if leaks start, I have some more tightening I can do.

Martins HeirCon · 02-09-2016, 09:43 AM

Oops. I done went way past that! With 1/4" of butyl tape and the distortion of the used window flange, i tightened until it squoze out uniformly. Probably pulled off nearly half of what I applied in excess. It comforts me to know that just as much flowed to the inside, though.

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Carl V · 02-09-2016, 11:06 AM

Hard to describe, but initially my screws were not very tight. I used my 18V drill to put the screws on, with the chuck set at the lowest setting. For an initial tightening, it felt just right, the drill latching out at low torque with butyl oozing out a bit. Then I tighten by hand, to feel what I'm doing, and I give it maybe 1/4 turn or so on each screw. I like to wait for the butyl to settle a bit before tightening more. The next day I tightened some more, maybe another 1/4 turn. I went by feel, considering how much butyl had oozed out, how much torque the screws can withstand in the cedar wood I'm using, and not too tight to bend the window flange. Then I scraped the excess butyl, and I didn't use any other sealant around. I like to keep a layer of butyl between the window frame and the fiberglass, and careful not over tighten. Some of my windows had been way overtightened as the flange was all distorted and wavy, I had to straighten them out before reinstalling (very soft aluminium).