My first Trillium window thread.

[David Tilston]

They contacted me. I only have spare side window screens. It may be possible to cut them down to size.

[Roy in TO]

Originally Posted by Mikmay

David I used on the trilliums I've restored composit flat stock it's three times as expensive as wood but will never rot again . It does even out in price when compared to not having to buy a whole sheet of ply .

Mike,
After our PM's (sent another today) and discussions, I may have found what you are talking about. Is this the stuff? It is actually a PVC product.

[Mikmay]

Originally Posted by Roy in TO

Mike,
After our PM's (sent another today) and discussions, I may have found what you are talking about. Is this the stuff? It is actually a PVC product.

Attachment 95929

That's the stuff Roy a little pricey but will never rot again.

[Roy in TO]

Originally Posted by Mikmay

That's the stuff Roy a little pricey but will never rot again.

The stuff at my Home Depot was rough (wood finish) on one side. I found some 4 sided smooth at Lowes.
https://www.lowes.ca/wood-boards/roy..._g1266659.html

Details in case the link breaks at some point in the future.
Royal Mouldings Limited 1x4x8-ft White PVC Trim Board @ $19.49 ea CDN
MFG Part # 0731808003
SKU 9429316S
UPC 070673837838

3 pieces ripped down the middle at 45 degrees will be enough to the front and side windows of a 4500. I didn't think about the small window over the sink until rereading the thread and posting this now. So you might want to get 1 - 12' piece instead to have enough to do all the windows on a 4500 (e.g. 2x8' + 1x12')

I bought extra pieces because I want to replace the front and rear pieces just below the window on my boler for the rear table and front bunk. I'm going to use some of this stuff to install the square (old style not radius corner) hatches under the benches of both trailers. I'm hoping to use the cutouts as the panels for the hatches.

Total cost including taxes (on a "don't pay the tax day") for 6 pieces was $116.96.

[Roy in TO]

Now for the screws ... other threads have talked about galvanic reaction between the screw and aluminum. I found a specially coated 3/4" #8 Stainless screw at Home depot. It is part of the Tahoe Slipfence system so you will find it in the fencing section.
https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.s...000821160.html

If you are in the USA - the screws are available at Lowes



Details from the Home Depot product description:

...these screws have been specially treated with a black coating by the manufacturer and are warranted against chipping and flakng.
18.8 Stainless Steel
Powder coated 100% Aluminum

They cost $5.13 /100 or 41.12 /1000

The weird thing about them is they are Phillips heads, made by Roberston Inc.

[Roy in TO]

In doing my research before I proceed, I found an interesting comment in this post by drdoyle in 2008: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...tml#post156606

the rear window had a trim strip (5 pop-rivit) which had a interlocking slot into which the inside lower window frame was inserted. It had to come off first to get the window out.

Mine only has 3 pop rivets, does it really have to come out 1st?

[David Tilston]

Yes, you should remove it first. It is pushed up into a groove in the bottom of the window. Pulling the window out from the bottom is difficult if you don't remove it. The windows should all be pulled out from the bottom first. They kind of hook at the top.

[Roy in TO]

Originally Posted by David Tilston

The windows should all be pulled out from the bottom first.

Thanks, I'll remove the rivets and strip for the rear window.

I got my 1st one out already, I'm in the process of teasing the ensolite off the wood.
I was thinking I'd use PVC cement to join the pieces of the inner "wood" frame for greater strength (I'm using the cellular PVC), especially for the front window that supports the bunk. Thoughts?

I read that Randy Bishop used the PL series construction adhesive to bond the inner wood to the body. Any one else do that? Thoughts?

Lastly are there any other things I need to know about?

[Carl V]

I didn't use anything between the wood and the shell.
Previous owner used silicone (what else?!!). Tons of it. Completely useless, it wasn't even sticking to the FG when I took it off.

Also I don't even plan to glue back the ensolite on the wood frames. I'm thinking some sort of framing over the Ensolite, probably aluminium. Previous owner had brad-nailed some MDF moldings, they sucked water and looked gross when I took them off, and the nails left tiny holes and rust marks that I need to hide. Botched job.

I'm thinking the next time I have to reseal those windows (in 30 years maybe - then I'll be 80!), you won't see me fighting to remove damn glue, silicone and whatever sealant again like I did over the last few months. It will simply be a matter of removing stainless screws, scraping old butyl tape (easy) and screwing the window back in. If the wood needs replacing, just pull it out, put new wood in, done. I like to keep it simple and easy to maintain in the long term.

[David Tilston]

I did not glue the ensolite to the plywood, I just stuffed the extra back into the gap between the window and the plywood. It has not come out again. I'm with Carl. When the wood needs to be replaced again, it will be a lot easier if I don't have to separate the ensolite from the plywood.

[Roy in TO]

Originally Posted by David Tilston

it will be a lot easier if I don't have to separate the ensolite from the plywood.

I hear you, my hands keep getting cramped - this is going to take me forever.

What I did notice is that the top piece of wood on the rear curbside window seems to have been glued or something to the fiberglass. It is the only one on my first window that is not flapping in the breeze.

How did people deal with the small piece of channel for the T moulding?

[ddedman]

David. Just started with our 81 Trillium window project. I have some IPE hardwood left over from our deck. Thinking this would work well inside the Windows. Anyone tried this? The plywood looks pretty good on the first one I took out. I'm assuming you still recommend replacing the wood once you take them out.

Also. Has anyone found replacements for the screw covers. For the most part mine look ok, however one of them is pretty cracked.

[David Tilston]

Other then using a synthetic material, so it does not rot, I am not sure one type of wood is any better then another. The trick is to reseal the windows when they leak. Don't let them rot. The plywood that I pulled out was nothing special, and it lasted 38 years. I did all the windows, and regret it. Only one window needed new wood. The other four windows could have just been resealed. The wood was fine. The one window that needed new wood was really easy to separate from the Ensolite. The others were really tough. If, when you pull the windows, the wood looks and feels dry and hard, then my advice is to just install new butyl tape and screws.

[ddedman]

Thanks Dave. Good advice. I will take them all out and assess the damage. I can save my energy for the belly band. It is coming off and the PO had used silicon along the top. We've been getting a little bit of water in with a driving rain, and the belly band is separating in a couple places. I've been following your other posts, very helpful, but want to avoid painting, so am thinking of some FG work then re-attaching the belly band.

Sorry, back to the windows... Any ideas on the outside black strip that covers the screws?

Doug

[David Tilston]

Originally Posted by ddedman

Sorry, back to the windows... Any ideas on the outside black strip that covers the screws?

These look like them. I googled "hehr screw cover canada":
https://www.amazon.ca/AP-Products-01.../dp/B002UC2PJU
These guys have two that could be it:
RV Superstore Canada. SCRWCVR 8'HEHR PAK/10 P/W
or
RV Superstore Canada. SCWCVR 8'HEHR PAK/10 C/WH
Anyone know which is the right one?

Also:
Hehr Screw Cover - Screw Covers and Trims
Explosive Powersports - Search Results for "hehr screw cover"

These all look like it, but I have not tried them. Let us know what works.

[Roy in TO]

Originally Posted by David Tilston

Other then using a synthetic material, so it does not rot, I am not sure one type of wood is any better then another. ...
The others were really tough. If, when you pull the windows, the wood looks and feels dry and hard, then my advice is to just install new butyl tape and screws.

Synthetic cost about $100 CAD to do a 4500 on sale.

Really appreciate you posting this after I started Dave. ;-)
My first window I've almost got separated is solid wood on the inside, but there were 3-4 screws that left 1/2 the threads in the wood.

I may as well keep on going. Got to find that leak.

[wolfandfinch]

So grateful for all this great advice. We are about to start on this project. I've got a lot of info on how to do this particular job, but has anyone repaired the actual window itself? Ours don't open very easily anymore and I'm curious if it's just going to be a matter of getting them cleaned up properly, getting some WD-40 in the joints or if someone has had a different experience?

Thanks so much!