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02-04-2008, 10:38 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Trailer: 1977 Trillium 13 ft
Posts: 16
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Hey,
Well, I'm new to this forum and this is my first post. I recently bought a 77 Trillium 1300 and I'm ready to start the remodel. Fortunately, I've been around the RV world for quite a while. I'm way too familiar with plumbing and electrical systems. Right now I need a source for parts that are as close to original as possible. First, the Bargman taillight on the left is shot from an accumulation of water over the years. Where do they come from? Next, The cover over the front windows is shot. Hmmmm..... Doesn't look like I'll find a replacement. BUT, I can rebuild the original if I can find a supplier for the fibreglass panels. This next one is a little silly, but how in the devil do the jacks work? I don't have the handle and I can't see how to make them work with anything but a dedicated handle. Lastly, there are no batteries on this thing. Never seen that before. The 12V power comes from the tow vehicle and that ain't gonna work. The cord that hooks to the vehicle supplies power from the battery to the converter. Has anyone abandoned this connection in favor of a hard connection from a battery or batteries mounted on the tongue? Whew! That enough for now. Trust me, there will be more!! lol
Thanks in advance
Jim
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02-05-2008, 12:03 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Trailer: Bigfoot 25 ft / Dodge 3500HD 4X4 Jake Brake
Posts: 7,316
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We have some very good resouces on the links to the left. Click Helpful-Links
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02-05-2008, 12:21 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1975 Trillium 13 ft / Chevy Astrovan
Posts: 278
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Re: jacks... They work with lots of cussing.
We have the jack handle, but my husband doesn't use it.
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02-05-2008, 12:41 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 7,056
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Quote:
Hey,
Well, I'm new to this forum and this is my first post. I recently bought a 77 Trillium 1300 and I'm ready to start the remodel. Fortunately, I've been around the RV world for quite a while. I'm way too familiar with plumbing and electrical systems.
This next one is a little silly, but how in the devil do the jacks work? I don't have the handle and I can't see how to make them work with anything but a dedicated handle.
Thanks in advance
Jim
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I'm going to jump in and make an assumption. I assume you're taking about the stabilizers mounted to the rear bumper and swing down. If so they're not really jacks and not meant to jack up the trailer.
The best method I've found to use that type stabilizers is as follows;
1. Get your trailer in the spot you want it.
2. Level the trailer side to side, either with blocks, or (preferred by me) using a BAL leveler.
3. Unhook the trailer from the Tow.
4. lower the front of the trailer with the tongue jack so that the front of the trailer is below level.
5. Deploy the stabilizers. Once they are in the down position I simply step on the foot and push it to the ground.
6. Go back to the front and crank the tongue up until it's level.
I've attempted once or twice to use the handle that came with the stabilizers to jack them up. It's difficult and you'll often put more pressure on one side of the frame, messing up the side to side level and possibly damaging the frame.
__________________
Byron & Anne enjoying the everyday Saturday thing.
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02-05-2008, 01:26 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2007 19 ft Escape 5.0 / 2002 GMC (1973 Boler project)
Posts: 4,149
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Hi: Jim... New /old style Trillium taillight assemblies avail from Paul Neumeister Sebringville Ontario Canada Phone # 519 393 6410 can be viewed @ www.fibreglass-rv.ca ( note spelling of fibre) click on catalogue. He restores fiberglass trailers A-1 Auto Refinishing is his business and has a beautifully restored rare square Boler 1650.
 Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie
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02-05-2008, 10:06 AM
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#6
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Junior Member
Trailer: 1977 Trillium 13 ft
Posts: 16
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Quote:
Hi: Jim... New /old style Trillium taillight assemblies avail from Paul Neumeister Sebringville Ontario Canada Phone # 519 393 6410 can be viewed @ www.fibreglass-rv.ca ( note spelling of fibre) click on catalogue. He restores fiberglass trailers A-1 Auto Refinishing is his business and has a beautifully restored rare square Boler 1650.
Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie
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Excellent. I'll call him this morning.
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02-05-2008, 10:38 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1975 Trillium 13 ft / Chevy Astrovan
Posts: 278
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We're thinking to replace the rear stabilizer jacks with welded-on scissor jacks (common at junk yards), or maybe little hydraulic jacks. The originals are such a pain.
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02-06-2008, 09:48 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 7,056
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Quote:
We're thinking to replace the rear stabilizer jacks with welded-on scissor jacks (common at junk yards), or maybe little hydraulic jacks. The originals are such a pain.
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I've heard of people doing this. I think you might want to be pretty careful with jacks on the frame. It's very easy to use them as jacks rather than stabilizers, which could put stresses on the frame that the frame wasn't designed to tolerate.
__________________
Byron & Anne enjoying the everyday Saturday thing.
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02-06-2008, 10:05 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,822
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Quote:
I've heard of people doing this. I think you might want to be pretty careful with jacks on the frame. It's very easy to use them as jacks rather than stabilizers, which could put stresses on the frame that the frame wasn't designed to tolerate.
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Then to, you need to make certain you have lots of clearance when the scissors jacks are collapsed. Going in and out of driveways may cause you to tear them right off the frame. If in doubt, don't have them welded on.
But Byron is right, don't tweak the frame!
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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02-07-2008, 01:41 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1975 Trillium 13 ft / Chevy Astrovan
Posts: 278
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Good idea about not welding them on. Our typical terrain around here, driveway included, is anything but smooth!
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02-07-2008, 12:34 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1976 Trillium 13 ft
Posts: 236
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Quote:
Lastly, there are no batteries on this thing. Never seen that before. The 12V power comes from the tow vehicle and that ain't gonna work. The cord that hooks to the vehicle supplies power from the battery to the converter. Has anyone abandoned this connection in favor of a hard connection from a battery or batteries mounted on the tongue? Thanks in advance
Jim
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I have a '76 Trillium, it did not come with battery, the connection to the Tow Vehicle is just to supply the 3 lights, and the fridge when travelling.
I don't however have a converter, so that is different on your trailer. I have noticed many people adding a battery on the tounge, usually pushing the Propane tank to the side to make room.
I guess it all depends on your power requirments what you need. We have a Powercentre 800 from Canadian Tire that we put under the seat, can charge it from 120volt, 12volt from Truck, and from small solar panel we have. It works for us.
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02-08-2008, 04:41 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1981 Trillium 5500
Posts: 1,158
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My 77 1300 had a battery stuck under the front seat on the road side, right where the wiring came in from the tongue.
Joe
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02-10-2008, 10:21 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Trailer: Former Burro owner and fan!
Posts: 9,015
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Your tow vehicle line does not supply power to your converter. A converter takes 120v and converts it to 12v. It may run a 12v line to the distribution panel at the 12v fuses/breakers, bypassing the converter and it appears to be going "Into" the converter.
You could find the line as it runs back to the box and tap a battery into that. If you are not familiar with electrical, you might want to have a shop do it. It's not hard tho.
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