my trailer battery is not charging up - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-27-2019, 09:25 AM   #1
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Name: lloyd
Trailer: 2009 13 ft Trillium (USA)
Ohio
Posts: 180
my trailer battery is not charging up

My buddies SCAMP battery usually accepts a charge when running his car or by hooking up to shore power. Now everything works fine when car is running and hooked to house current, but when unconnected to auto or shore power the battery has no charge to operate trailer. Tried using a new battery and still no lights come on in trailer. Checked the circuit breakers and the 20 amp breaker was tripped...put it back on..and still no lights in trailer.

Is this a converter or an inverter issue? Or....is it neither and is it something else?

What could we be missing as a variable to this problem...a good battery but a trailer that has no power if left without shore or auto power.

Could it be the fuse in the converter. Do converters have their own glass fuse?

Remember, or interior and exterior lights work when car is running...

Thanks for any help....



Please help...
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Old 05-27-2019, 09:46 AM   #2
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Name: Carl
Trailer: 2014 16 scamp side dinette/Rav4 V6 Tow pkg.
Pennsylvania
Posts: 570
Same thing happened to me in my 2014 scamp. The converter was not plugged in, the plug wiggled itself loose. Plug back on, fix with duct tape to keep in place. Because the battery went below 1100 a few times because of what happened, I had to get a new battery in 2 years
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Old 05-27-2019, 11:11 AM   #3
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Name: Wayne & Barbara
Trailer: Parkliner
Iowa
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Blown fuse?
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Old 05-27-2019, 11:38 AM   #4
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Name: Marilyn
Trailer: 13 ft 2005 Scamp Deluxe; 2002 Subaru V6 Outback
Oregon
Posts: 257
battery problem

Same thing happened to me. Mechanic connected the battery terminals incorrectly while replacing on the trailer, blowing the fuse. Hopefully your battery issue is that simple.
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Old 05-27-2019, 11:51 AM   #5
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Name: Dan
Trailer: Scamp
Minnesota
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What color is the wire attached to the negative terminal of the battery? If your answer is black, you've connected the battery backward and probably blown a fuse or two.

From the factory, there are two fuses that you need to check when you can't get power from the battery. First is a fuse at the battery in the positive lead; for some insane reason the powers-that-be in the RV world decided this should be a black wire. The second is just inside the camper shell where the umbilical cord comes thru the shell. There will be a bunch of wires here, but only one fuse.

There may be one other fuse blown; the main DC fuse in the converter.

The Scamp wiring diagram in the document center may be of some help diagnosing this problem: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/d...gram_Scamp.pdf


Let us know what you find.



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Old 05-27-2019, 11:53 AM   #6
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Name: Lynn
Trailer: Scamp
New York
Posts: 74
If you have 12V power when plugged in, the converter is working properly. Your problem is either the inline battery fuse or a bad battery. The fuse can be good but no longer making contact, especially if it's outside the battery box. Clean the contacts and tuck it into the box if it's outside the trailer as ours is/was. If the problem has been there for a while, the battery may have been damaged by overly self-discharging or freezing.
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Old 05-28-2019, 08:04 PM   #7
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Name: Peter
Trailer: G30 Elite Class C
British Columbia
Posts: 1,498
Quote:
Originally Posted by lloyd cicetti View Post
My buddies SCAMP battery usually accepts a charge when running his car or by hooking up to shore power. Now everything works fine when car is running and hooked to house current, but when unconnected to auto or shore power the battery has no charge to operate trailer. Tried using a new battery and still no lights come on in trailer. Checked the circuit breakers and the 20 amp breaker was tripped...put it back on..and still no lights in trailer.

Is this a converter or an inverter issue? Or....is it neither and is it something else?

What could we be missing as a variable to this problem...a good battery but a trailer that has no power if left without shore or auto power.

Could it be the fuse in the converter. Do converters have their own glass fuse?

Remember, or interior and exterior lights work when car is running...

Thanks for any help....



Please help...
:time for you to install a 50w solar panel and don't forget the $12 Charge controller good for sale 12Watts or something around it. enough wire to hook up to Batteries or battery.
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Old 06-05-2019, 12:49 PM   #8
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Trailer: 2011 KZ Sportsmen 242SB / 2004 Ram-Cummins 2500 2wd
British Columbia
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From what you describe I would think it's the main Battery fuse. Usually the main Battery fuse is located close to the battery, and converter output, car input, and loads (via DC distribution panel) are connected together (inside the power box). If the Fuse is blown, or not making connection, the battery will NOT charge or supply power to the loads.
Common DC connections are Red +, Black -, while for AC, Black (or Red if applicable) is 'Hot', and White is Neutral (not hot).
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Old 06-05-2019, 12:59 PM   #9
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Name: Garnet
Trailer: 83? 17' Boler
Saskatchewan
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My 1983 17 ft boiler had a faulty transfer relay which I replaced with an inexpensive solid state 30amp automotive light relay. The dirty contacts would not past power when disconnecting from shore power.
Garnet and Connie Larsen
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Old 06-06-2019, 02:26 PM   #10
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Trailer: 2011 KZ Sportsmen 242SB / 2004 Ram-Cummins 2500 2wd
British Columbia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lloyd (aka Santa) Coltman View Post
From what you describe I would think it's the main Battery fuse. Usually the main Battery fuse is located close to the battery, and converter output, car input, and loads (via DC distribution panel) are connected together (inside the power box). If the Fuse is blown, or not making connection, the battery will NOT charge or supply power to the loads.
Common DC connections are Red +, Black -, while for AC, Black (or Red if applicable) is 'Hot', and White is Neutral (not hot).
Well, I got a look at the 'Scamp' wiring diagram (by a round-about route as the link didn't work), and for some reason 'Scamp' appeared to follow AC convention ( Black +, white Ground) while most others use Red +, Black - . As well, according to a previous post, there are two fuses in series in the + lead. (Curious!) If the one closest to the battery were to fail, the battery would NOT Charge from either the tow vehicle or shore power, the Interior lights would work from either source, but not from battery.
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Old 06-07-2019, 08:32 AM   #11
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Trailer: 2011 KZ Sportsmen 242SB / 2004 Ram-Cummins 2500 2wd
British Columbia
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Usually, even a poor battery will retain some charge (for a short time) after coming off a charge source. You NEED some form of tester, (test lamp or voltmeter) to test at battery terminals. Then check (at battery) for voltage when on 'Shore Power' or 'Tow Vehicle Power'.
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Old 06-12-2019, 05:31 AM   #12
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Name: Joe
Trailer: 1999 Casita 17' SD
Ohio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lloyd (aka Santa) Coltman View Post
and for some reason 'Scamp' appeared to follow AC convention ( Black +, white Ground) while most others use Red +, Black - . As well, according to a previous post, there are two fuses in series in the + lead. (Curious!) If the one closest to the battery were to fail, the battery would NOT Charge from either the tow vehicle or shore power, the Interior lights would work from either source, but not from battery.
Not just Scamp. Travel trailers are HOUSE VEHICLES and therefore wiring follows residential housing color coding both 120 Volts AC and 12 Volts DC. I've not heard of any that follow the black/red AUTOMOTIVE standard.

Enough people make the wrong assumption and now some/all/many/most converters have two fuses for reverse polarity. On my PD 4535 (I think that's number) there are two 30 amp DC fuses on the top of the 12 volt section.
Check for them or similar.
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Old 06-12-2019, 03:57 PM   #13
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Trailer: 2011 KZ Sportsmen 242SB / 2004 Ram-Cummins 2500 2wd
British Columbia
Posts: 127
I went out and verified the battery wiring on my 2011 KZ Sportsman (built in Indiana) and ALL Battery wiring (from Battery terminals in Power Center to Battery posts) follow the Automotive Standard (RED +, Black -). That also seems to be standard for solar connections. Perhaps the reason for that is that it is common for Auto Mechanics to do battery changes.
Note: it appears, though, that all my DC distribution wiring uses Color as +, white as - .

Come to think of it, the ONLY time I've seen blown 'Polarity Protection' fuses, was on Niece's TT, when delivered. Mechanic had connected battery reversed polarity, then corrected. The batteries wouldn't charge from 'Shore Power' until fuses replaced.
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