Need advise on a leaky slider - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-16-2012, 05:23 AM   #1
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Name: Ken
Trailer: 19' Scamp
Nebraska
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Need advise on a leaky slider

My slider in the loft of a 5er is leaking.
I know I have seen it before and I have tried the search to no avail, but I am guessing the proper way to fix it is remove, clean re-seal and re-install..

Question is in a previous life someone had stock in RTV, (aka silicone) so that needs cleaned up and gone..

Secondly,, what is best to seal it with.


Thanks for your help..
Ken
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Old 03-16-2012, 05:36 AM   #2
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Butyl.
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Old 03-16-2012, 05:46 AM   #3
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Earl, before you pull the window, check the weep holes on the outside... they need to be clear for water to drain and not migrate back inside the trailer. Typically the weep holes are covered with plastic covers. Take a piece of weed wacker line and run it through the holes to clear. Then, I check for leakage with a water hose.

I start with simple and move to more complex as needed. YMMV

Good luck!
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Old 03-16-2012, 06:17 AM   #4
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........ Take a piece of weed wacker line and run it through the holes to clear. .......
At what RPM would you run the weed wacker during this operation?
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Old 03-16-2012, 07:20 AM   #5
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Good one Tom !

Ron
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Old 03-16-2012, 08:54 AM   #6
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the shafts of Duck Feathers work better ... .
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Old 03-16-2012, 10:19 AM   #7
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the shafts of Duck Feathers work better ... .

Quack!
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Old 03-16-2012, 12:38 PM   #8
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the shafts of Duck Feathers work better ... .

I've got a pair of Mallards (a drake & a hen) in my pool as I type this, so I can likely get you some feathers if you want......
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Old 03-16-2012, 04:51 PM   #9
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Dave

Duck A'La Orange.
Grab Em.
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Old 03-16-2012, 09:53 PM   #10
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Hey it's snow goose season here now,, No shortage of feathers... Thanks everyone for the advise..
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Old 03-16-2012, 10:15 PM   #11
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Earl..leave the goose alone!

Use butyl and trim away ALL the squeezed out excess. Use Dicor NON leveling sealant around the edges.

If you use sillycone again, we will all send a flock of Seagulls to chase you down.

But try the weep holes first.
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Old 03-17-2012, 06:39 AM   #12
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That reminds be of the old saw of the difference between a fetish and a perversion,, but won't go there.

Can you send the seagull to the previous owner?? Or maybe it was the one before him???
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Old 03-17-2012, 01:14 PM   #13
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I feel your pain. I am going to dig out a 10 ft long 2 inch thick bead of sillycone the PO used to seal the awning rail this afternoon. ugh!
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Old 03-18-2012, 01:05 PM   #14
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I just discovered my front window is leaking also. It only rains a few times a year here. I rodded out the scuppers last night, so will check on it today and see if that was the problem. I hope it's not the window surround. Silicone is next to impossible to remove!
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Old 03-18-2012, 01:53 PM   #15
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Another potential leak point in a window is where the metal frame butts up to itself. On my Bigfoot that was only one point on the entire frame, yours may be different.

That point should also be sealed. If it is unfortunately located, such as at the top of the window, an AMAZING amount af water can come through a crack you can barely get a razor's edge into.
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Old 03-18-2012, 10:06 PM   #16
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Rodding out the scuppers seems to have solved the leak. All was dry this morning.
Russ
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Old 03-19-2012, 08:47 AM   #17
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yay!
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Old 03-19-2012, 02:08 PM   #18
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I just discovered my front window is leaking also. It only rains a few times a year here. I rodded out the scuppers last night, so will check on it today and see if that was the problem. I hope it's not the window surround. Silicone is next to impossible to remove!
Russ
Around here it only rains once a year! Starts on Sept 1 and is usually over by Aug 31
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Old 03-19-2012, 06:13 PM   #19
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Rodding out the scuppers seems to have solved the leak. All was dry this morning.
Russ
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Old 03-28-2012, 12:24 AM   #20
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The leak is back! It is leaking from the butted joint in the extrusion which is positioned......(you guessed it, at the bottom center). The scuppers don't even have to be plugged to let water go out this joint! some water goes out the scuppers and some drips from the joint. I don't know what Hehr was thinking when they decided on that butt location, but now I have to think of a way to fix it. It appears the window has an external frame and an internal frame. The external frame has the joint located at 3:00 o'clock. The inner is located at 6:00 o'clock. Directly under the divider mullion. I don't know how to dis-assemble the window, but there are exposed screws around the perimeter of the inside frame. Perhaps I could pull all those screws and see if the window will pull loose on the inside, leaving the sealed outside frame glued to the trailer? If so, I could dis-assemble the inside frame and caulk it from the gutter side. Anyone have any experience with Scamp/Hehr sliders?
Russ
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