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03-16-2012, 05:23 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Name: Ken
Trailer: 19' Scamp
Nebraska
Posts: 109
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Need advise on a leaky slider
My slider in the loft of a 5er is leaking.
I know I have seen it before and I have tried the search to no avail, but I am guessing the proper way to fix it is remove, clean re-seal and re-install..
Question is in a previous life someone had stock in RTV, (aka silicone) so that needs cleaned up and gone..
Secondly,, what is best to seal it with.
Thanks for your help..
Ken
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03-16-2012, 05:36 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: Kinga DeRode
Trailer: For Sale Or Rent
Rooms to Let 50 Cents
Posts: 5,112
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Butyl.
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03-16-2012, 05:46 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Name: Donna D
Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
Oregon
Posts: 25,198
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Earl, before you pull the window, check the weep holes on the outside... they need to be clear for water to drain and not migrate back inside the trailer. Typically the weep holes are covered with plastic covers. Take a piece of weed wacker line and run it through the holes to clear. Then, I check for leakage with a water hose.
I start with simple and move to more complex as needed. YMMV
Good luck!
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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03-16-2012, 06:17 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Name: Kinga DeRode
Trailer: For Sale Or Rent
Rooms to Let 50 Cents
Posts: 5,112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D.
........ Take a piece of weed wacker line and run it through the holes to clear. ....... 
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At what RPM would you run the weed wacker during this operation?
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03-16-2012, 07:20 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Name: Ron
Trailer: Trillium 13 ft (green grape)
Ontario
Posts: 442
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Good one Tom !
Ron
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03-16-2012, 08:54 AM
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#6
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Moderator
Name: Gina D.
Trailer: '77 Leocraft 17 & Former Burro owner and fan!
West Coast USA
Posts: 9,015
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the shafts of Duck Feathers work better ... .
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03-16-2012, 10:19 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: Kinga DeRode
Trailer: For Sale Or Rent
Rooms to Let 50 Cents
Posts: 5,112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gina D.
the shafts of Duck Feathers work better ... .
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Quack!
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03-16-2012, 12:38 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: Bigfoot 25 RB and Bigfoot 21RB
British Columbia
Posts: 1,148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gina D.
the shafts of Duck Feathers work better ... .
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I've got a pair of Mallards (a drake & a hen) in my pool as I type this, so I can likely get you some feathers if you want......
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03-16-2012, 04:51 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: Ron
Trailer: Trillium 13 ft (green grape)
Ontario
Posts: 442
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Dave
Duck A'La Orange.
Grab Em.
Ron
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03-16-2012, 09:53 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Name: Ken
Trailer: 19' Scamp
Nebraska
Posts: 109
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Hey it's snow goose season here now,, No shortage of feathers... Thanks everyone for the advise..
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03-16-2012, 10:15 PM
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#11
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Moderator
Name: Gina D.
Trailer: '77 Leocraft 17 & Former Burro owner and fan!
West Coast USA
Posts: 9,015
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Earl..leave the goose alone!
Use butyl and trim away ALL the squeezed out excess. Use Dicor NON leveling sealant around the edges.
If you use sillycone again, we will all send a flock of Seagulls to chase you down.
But try the weep holes first.
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03-17-2012, 06:39 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Name: Ken
Trailer: 19' Scamp
Nebraska
Posts: 109
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That reminds be of the old saw of the difference between a fetish and a perversion,, but won't go there.
Can you send the seagull to the previous owner?? Or maybe it was the one before him???
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03-17-2012, 01:14 PM
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#13
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Moderator
Name: Gina D.
Trailer: '77 Leocraft 17 & Former Burro owner and fan!
West Coast USA
Posts: 9,015
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I feel your pain. I am going to dig out a 10 ft long 2 inch thick bead of sillycone the PO used to seal the awning rail this afternoon. ugh!
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03-18-2012, 01:05 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Name: Russ
Trailer: Scamp 16' side dinette, Airstream Safari 19'
California
Posts: 588
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I just discovered my front window is leaking also. It only rains a few times a year here. I rodded out the scuppers last night, so will check on it today and see if that was the problem. I hope it's not the window surround. Silicone is next to impossible to remove!
Russ
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03-18-2012, 01:53 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: 2011 Escape 5.0
Washington
Posts: 184
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Another potential leak point in a window is where the metal frame butts up to itself. On my Bigfoot that was only one point on the entire frame, yours may be different.
That point should also be sealed. If it is unfortunately located, such as at the top of the window, an AMAZING amount af water can come through a crack you can barely get a razor's edge into.
__________________
Dave
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03-18-2012, 10:06 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Name: Russ
Trailer: Scamp 16' side dinette, Airstream Safari 19'
California
Posts: 588
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Rodding out the scuppers seems to have solved the leak. All was dry this morning.
Russ
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03-19-2012, 08:47 AM
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#17
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Moderator
Name: Gina D.
Trailer: '77 Leocraft 17 & Former Burro owner and fan!
West Coast USA
Posts: 9,015
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yay!
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03-19-2012, 02:08 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: Bigfoot 25 RB and Bigfoot 21RB
British Columbia
Posts: 1,148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ruscal
I just discovered my front window is leaking also. It only rains a few times a year here. I rodded out the scuppers last night, so will check on it today and see if that was the problem. I hope it's not the window surround. Silicone is next to impossible to remove!
Russ
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Around here it only rains once a year! Starts on Sept 1 and is usually over by Aug 31  
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03-19-2012, 06:13 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Name: Donna D
Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
Oregon
Posts: 25,198
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ruscal
Rodding out the scuppers seems to have solved the leak. All was dry this morning.
Russ
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__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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03-28-2012, 12:24 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Name: Russ
Trailer: Scamp 16' side dinette, Airstream Safari 19'
California
Posts: 588
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The leak is back! It is leaking from the butted joint in the extrusion which is positioned......(you guessed it, at the bottom center). The scuppers don't even have to be plugged to let water go out this joint! some water goes out the scuppers and some drips from the joint. I don't know what Hehr was thinking when they decided on that butt location, but now I have to think of a way to fix it. It appears the window has an external frame and an internal frame. The external frame has the joint located at 3:00 o'clock. The inner is located at 6:00 o'clock. Directly under the divider mullion. I don't know how to dis-assemble the window, but there are exposed screws around the perimeter of the inside frame. Perhaps I could pull all those screws and see if the window will pull loose on the inside, leaving the sealed outside frame glued to the trailer? If so, I could dis-assemble the inside frame and caulk it from the gutter side. Anyone have any experience with Scamp/Hehr sliders?
Russ
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