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Old 02-15-2014, 07:34 AM   #21
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Name: David
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I was lucky, mine was in pretty good shape with no mold on the inside. I would definitely clean down the interior shell with something that will wipe out the mold. Just be careful that you have good ventilation as some of the cleaners have really bad fumes. Same goes for gluing strips in, open all windows and doors and wear a good paint filter mask that blocks the fumes. Better safe than sorry! You are working in a very confined space and hitting the floor hurts or worse.
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Old 02-16-2014, 05:37 PM   #22
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As far as the windows, after resealing them, I have had no leaks. I used new rust-proof screws with a square or torx fitting and the grey tape putty from the local rv shop.
I think that replacing the windows with new ones would be rather expensive just from the size of each (my two cents).
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Old 02-16-2014, 05:55 PM   #23
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Welcome to the Forum Chris from N.C.
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Old 02-17-2014, 03:43 AM   #24
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Thanks for the welcome, Papa T!
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Old 02-17-2014, 04:01 AM   #25
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Name: Chris
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Utah
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Ya, I see what you guys are saying on the windows.... After finally tearing out the paneling and getting a good look at how they are framed in, they won't be any problem and quite easy to reframe in and reinstall/seal them properly.

Geary,

I have a question about the roof, particularly the double-hull interior portion (the white interior ceiling portion that all the cabinets were attached to)... Well, mine seems to be in good shape so I don't know if I should mess with it... however, I have no idea what's behind it, and I would rather have the ability to reframe the roof along with the rest of my interior skeleton (as seen is some of the beachcomber rebuilds), so I can plan/build out accordingly, and work from a flat roof versus the akwardly molded shape of the ceiling hull. I guess the thought of framing out the interior along side a 'blind spot' (ie the upper white hull) with no knowledge of the anchor studs behind it, etc., makes me a little nervous. Also, I'd like to see if it needs any runners that I could bring down into the new subfloor for added roof support/anti sag, and I would also reinsulate the top, along with the rest of the trailer, as I'm sure it probably has the poor factory fiberglass padding randomly stuffed up there.... but that would be a huge task and if unnecessary since my roof is good as is, why create more work/expense for myself... I guess if it aint broke, don't fix it..... so....

Should I go down this road and pull out that white roof....? I'd hate to open up pandora's box, as mine is in great shape as is, but I am already in for a complete rebuild, so what's a little more work if this would pay dividends down the road....

Does anyone have experience here with this double hull deal.....? To tear out, or not tear out.... that is the question...... lol
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Old 02-18-2014, 04:19 AM   #26
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Utah
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Also, I am getting ready to pull out the sub floor. Not sure how it's anchored down, as I am worried about damaging the bottom shell of the fiberglass in the process of removing the old plywood. And I can't tell but it seems as though the plywood was also glassed to the bottom sidewall of the bottom half of the shell as well. Do you just go in and take a cutting wheel to it...? Not sure how to proceed.... Any advice here would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 02-18-2014, 01:01 PM   #27
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I pulled home an Amerigo just this week. Won't be starting in on it till the weather is better though. Mine's a total gut job as well. I look forward to watching your progress and stealing any good ideas.
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