New axle on Trillium 1300 1976

[x2uol]

Hi,
I read the posts on axles, but kind of got lost on all the information, and calculations.
Within the next few weeks, I 'll buy a new axle for the trillium 76,
and I also want brakes.
What would be the best one??
I wonder if I should go for 14 inches tires ??
Excuse my English
Thanks
Lou in Montreal

[GMike A]

Hello Lou. I can tell you what I do sometimes. Example- Go to Google or Yahoo search engine and then I typed in " What brakes for fiberglass campers" On Yahoo I then scroll down and look for this forum to show in the search results and then I just click on those links to find all of the best answers. I am still a novice but I am going with 15 inch tires and used a 10 inch drum and mounted my own electric brakes. As I recall the 10inch drum will accept 13,14,and 15 inch tires - But let others more knowledgeable answer. Good Luck. Here is one post that I googled.
electric brakes - Fiberglass RV


HI ALL I removed the axle in my 13' Bigfoot , and had it straightened, bent by p.o.; did not know about it when purchased. I disconnected the wiring to the brakes ...
www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f55/electric-brakes-51246.html

[Thomas G.]

I'd go with 10" brakes. Some axles come with a splined arm so you can adjust ride height and also replace a damaged spindle without replacing the whole axle, but they may be more expensive.

[David Tilston]

On the Trillium 4500 that I use I have a 3500# axle with 10" brakes and 14" Ford Ranger aluminum rims. If I had to do it over, I would have a 2500# axle built, but keep the 10" brakes.
I plan to do this to the other three Trilliums I own.

[georgewa]

When my '76 Trillium 1300 arrives in 3 wks., I plan to install an Al-ko SF-19 torsionaxle (1500-2200 lb capacity) with 7" ultralube electric brakes ($400 includes shipping) in trailing arm configuration with a starting angle of +15 degrees. I found a welder who was referred by a trailer shop who charges $65/hr rather than the usual $85/hr to do the work. I will be asking him to also beef up the frame, esp. in the front curved area. A Tekonsha brake controller (probably Primus model) with a breakaway switch will also be installed.

This site has lots of very useful information on this topic that can be found by searching it . There is also the web and google as has been mentioned. There are numerous decisions that one has to make in this project, each with pros and cons: (1) what size axle; (2) what type axle; (3) what manuf of axle (Flexiride axle offers more options but is $200+ more); (4) what size brakes ( 10" brakes preferable but seem available only on 3500lb rated axle because of axle spindle size); (5) forward arm vs trailing arm brake installation (trailing arm recommended); (6) what starting angle for new axle ( +15 for more undercarriage room rather than stock 0) ; (7) where to install new axle when switching from leading to trailing arm ( ? welder balance table helpful); finally, (8) do you really need a new axle or could you get by with just 7" electric brakes if a brake mounting flange is present and you are willing to accept leading arm positioning of the brakes rather than trailing arm ( this is still a possibility for me as I will be using my trailer a fair amount but moving it relatively short distances ).

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Thomas G.

Some axles come with a splined arm so you can adjust ride height and also replace a damaged spindle without replacing the whole axle, but they may be more expensive.

That's Universal's Flexiride line. The splined shaft/arm joint is optional, but common on all but the smallest Flexiride axles. In addition to the arm, the rubber cartridges are also replaceable, although only by an authorized distributor (not do-it-yourself). They generally are more expensive; the same company distributes Dexter Torflex, AL-KO, and Flexiride here (Standen's), and their rep told me a few years ago that for the same application, Flexiride is always more expensive... but preferred by customers who are willing to pay for it.

[RLP]

On my 72 13 foot Boler I had the original 1200#?? axle replaced with a 2000#. I considered the one with the splined arm to give me the option of height adjustment but the trailer shop assured me of the new height within 1/2 inch given I wanted a 22 1/2 degree down trailing arm and 14 inch tires. In the end I went with the fixed arm and the shop was spot on within their predicted 1/2 inch. Never had any desire to change the height not that I can now.

Also, they saw no need for brakes on such a small/light trailer. I know there are many opinions on this issue and I choose no brakes. First time on the road I did some braking tests of which a few almost made me soil my pants. I was still satisfied with my choice of no brakes.

The one thing that bothers me a little is the stiffness of the trailer ride. A 2000# axle is allot stiffer than a 1200# but then again the 1200# was original and likely on it's last legs. I do allot of unpaved back-road travel and this is where I notice it. Great ride on pavement though. The trailer shop said the axle will be less stiff in warmer/hotter temperatures because the internal rubber gets softer. Again they were correct.

One last thing about up-sizing tires. Make sure you have sufficient clearance in the wheel well because when the axle arm rotates resulting from the tire hitting a bump, pothole, etc, the tire position changes slightly.

[Eddie Longest]

If you want 10" brakes on a lighter trailer you can order a Dexter #10 3500 lb axle set up for a 2500 lb load rating.
Eddie