Normally I do not mention techniques here I cannot post with photos when I do not have pics of the suggestion...This time I will because I have done this well in the body of my trailer twice...I am currently doing it now again, it is working well with a few changes I have learned to incorporate since the original try in 1991.
I did not know FBRV then, computers being new and all...forget digital cameras!!! way too pricey, also F.R.P was a new material just coming up into its own right.
The first try...the concept. (1991) done in a Campster
Imagine sectioning the trailer ceiling into separate spaces using the top of the window frames as lines by elongating them, "think the top inside window box fur strip with its top straight horizontal piece going from the bulkhead wall to the front cow
l". The wood fir strip has an ell notched into its underside by cutting into the wood strip via a table saw prior to installing, at the backside facing up towards its window side is the notched edge, the other side is identical.
Now imagine putting silver bubble wrap insulation up against the exterior hull from inside, (then I used carpet foam) next cut textured F.R.P. (fiberglass reinforced panel) slightly larger than needed calculating the extra for the top curves in the ceiling, this curve extra measure added to the cut is needed
plus "sum" for the notch work in the fur strip
it helps lock the F.R.P. panel in place later, clicking into the extended wooden window fur strip now bordering the ceiling.
The "extra sum
" + the curve measure sum
" also puts the correct tension
into the panel when clicked into the ell cut into the backside of the wood window frames elongated bordering the ceiling. This causes the panel to arc squarely and smartly into the curved spaces at the top of the ceiling holding the removable panel there without any adhesive.
That was the prototype concept. How I handled the cowl or nose area was a different solution.
In the prototype trial run years ago (1991) I learned that heat can cause a slight sag in the F.R.P. panel when heated when a non reflective
insulation is used.
I live in the high desert, so this is a good testing ground for that issue.
Now in this current remodel, I have built an oak center console against the ceiling from the front trailer cowl/nose to the pop-top hatch, it now trisects the roof space into thirds, solving any thermal sag issue once panels are in place because they are smaller panels.
In this second try I have a panel tensioned into place from the top window to the outside edge of the center console (reading lights
dvd player there now) the console continues with the insulation in place behind it dead center with the the other third F.R.P. panel as a repeat performance on the other side. My horizontal cuts are easy below the window also clicking into place with no sag issue ever, with bubble insulation behind everything.
Currently the Astro body is upside down and disassembled, I am closing holes and re-finishing the trailer in 2 part epoxy Perfection tm. as my Astro hull needs to be completely sanded because of sun damage or I would send pics now.
When in a week or two longer after I re-sanding the millionth time again, applying Perfection tm. re-finishing the section under the belly band I will flip it over reassembling the panels again inside the interior...I will photo it again, I just thought I would burst out this solution to my Astros thin skin issues because I have not really seen it done this way liking the results, so this is my 2 cents worth.
The pics I originally took died in the last P.C. fiasco never to be recovered again...I sent the drive in to a rescue recovery service but they could not rescue that part of it...Now I upload to internet storage my pics.
Hope I spit it out right to be visualized.
Happy Camping, Safe Trails.