New Floor for the Scamp - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-06-2019, 08:36 AM   #21
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Name: bill
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Not worried about leaks does not equal won’t have leaks. It’s good to not worry about stuff. But leaks do happen.

Molded FG trailer floors tend to rot from the inside out.

IMHO trailer mfrs continue to use OSB in trailer floors for one reason only: its cheap. OSB is a good product for sub flooring until it rots. There are other choices out there that will never rot and only add a few hundred $$ to the trailer price.
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Old 01-06-2019, 02:56 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by thrifty bill View Post
IMHO trailer mfrs continue to use OSB in trailer floors for one reason only: its cheap. OSB is a good product for sub flooring until it rots. There are other choices out there that will never rot and only add a few hundred $$ to the trailer price.
OSB also has a high strength to weight ratio, and is quite stiff so the floor doesn't flex when you walk on it...

what alternative sub-flooring would you suggest as an alternative?
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Old 01-06-2019, 03:41 PM   #23
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If I was a manufacturer, I'd do a lot of research on various composite materials.

This one is an example, company owned by the same company that owns Dicor:

I'd also look at Coosa board.

http://www.vixencomposites.com/catal...ctural-panels/
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Old 01-07-2019, 01:09 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by cdwebb View Post
The more I tear into, the more issues I see. Almost every rivet hole has spider cracks in the gel coat. Somebody couldn't get things back right when they re-assembled it before, so they just drilled another hole and siliconed the first.
I was not really wanting to tear the carpeting off the walls, but I'm beginning to wonder if I can avoid it. Not sure I can do a proper job with the rivet hole patching without it.

Rob, if you had rather I not junk your thread up, PM me or something. Let me know!!
Not adding the tabbing sure caused problems. Think it's JB Weld that makes a white filler that will take care of the holes from the outside. Any rivets you drill out can be pushed in and to the side of the hole, you'll never see/feel them. FWIW, the carpet in my '06 SD is REALLY glued on, I wouldn't want to pull it off either. Can't tell from the pics, is there a floor to ceiling closet up front?

You may want to start a new thread for your repairs as we have kind of hijacked Robs thread . Maybe a Mod can move these posts to it.
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Old 01-07-2019, 07:33 AM   #25
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I agree. It is not fair to the OP. I have comments regarding this as I have resurrected an old Casita destined for the landfill. I have resisted due to the hijack issue. It is very easy to start a new thread.
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Old 01-07-2019, 01:30 PM   #26
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At least on the Scamp the lower floor add little or no support to the shell.
The lower floor is ... just a floor.
The floor in the front and rear is important, however. The bonding of the floor to the shell is all that holds the shell in place. The sides (from the frame rails to the shell) add some very small support as they are not really solid enough for the addition of support. (and are only attached to the frame rails with a few sheetmetal screws.
The front and rear supply almost all of the strength as they sit on top of the frame and are the primary support.
Personally the problem with OSB is that is has a lot of glue and water easily penetrates the substrate and rots.
Plywood will also rot and the real problem is that Scamp waterproofs the bottom and not the top and water will find a way in and it WILL rot the wood.
In my opinion if you are going to the trouble of replacing the floor you should fiberglass the top of the floor and attach that floor with "tabbing" solidly all the way around the shell.
In my opinion there should also be some additional support on the sides to add strength to the shell all along the sides to prevent the dreaded door sag and distortion of the shell due to no meaningful support all along the sides. The door side is even more weakened by the door gap.
Replace the floor, Fiberglass the floor to keep the water out of the wood. (By the way Polyester resin is not very good at maintaining a seal on the wood and if you look at the millions of the fiberglass boats with rotten wood stringers and transoms you will see what I mean.)
ALL trailers will eventually leak from somewhere (even new one) and if that water sits on the floor it will rot if it can get to the wood.
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Old 01-15-2019, 11:01 AM   #27
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Lot's of opinions on floors.. Hmm Well after a break over the holidays.. I'm back at it. Carefully reconstructing the floor... piece by piece. Gluing and using SS wood screws. The small brackets are to keep things aligned tilll the under side is glassed.

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Old 01-27-2019, 07:45 PM   #28
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Rob,
So I started replacing my floors over the summer, but I got a lot ahead of myself & completely removed the entire floor, without getting a layout of the floor. So now, I have a shell that sits on the frame & moves when I try to capture proper shape of floor. Not sure if you removed the entire floor or where smart enough to only remove one at a time. Any advice?
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Old 01-28-2019, 08:54 AM   #29
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YES.... lots.. go back to the first page of this post and the second photo. You will see the cradle that I built to support the body. This keeps things straight. Use the old floor for a width.
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Old 02-24-2019, 10:37 AM   #30
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Rob,
Can you send me the width dimenstion of the frame you used to support the scamp (front & rear)?

Thanks
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Old 02-24-2019, 02:48 PM   #31
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48 " outside to outside.. Till it narrows up front for the tongue and hitch.. and that's with a 1-3/4 " wide frame tube. So inside is 44-1/2 "
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Old 02-24-2019, 04:01 PM   #32
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the frames are 48" Plus or minus 1/2"
Measure YOURs if it is at all critical.
I assumed that mine was 48" when I ordered my axle and that created some more fabrication issues on installation
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Old 01-02-2020, 05:12 PM   #33
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Well it's winter again and time for more work on the Scamp.. Been on the frame all summer and stored.. now we lifted it off the frame and rolled it on the side ...slid it into the shop so I can fiberglass the bottom.

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Betcha haven't seen that before.. !
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Old 01-02-2020, 05:17 PM   #34
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Wow!
A great position to work on the bottom.
By the way while fiberglassing the bottom is a great thing almost all rot starts on the top side.
Putting the same effort in fiberglassing the interior floor will have a greater effect in future waterproofing and controlling rot in the floor.
The bottom will get wet and also dry and needs to be protected, but the inside gets wet and stays wet.
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Old 01-02-2020, 05:19 PM   #35
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You have a nice looking bottom.
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Old 01-02-2020, 05:35 PM   #36
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Yes that's the plan.. even though I'm installing new windows and roof vent.. every bit of that floor will be covered. You just never know a window could get left open..
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Old 01-03-2020, 09:50 AM   #37
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The downside of a fully glassed-in floor is when water does get inside through cracks or screw penetrations, it is trapped. Then when it gets soft, repair is more complicated. Search “Trillium floor rot” for discussions on the subject.

Some manufacturers of glassed-in wood floors include a French drain system around the outer perimeter to allow standing water to get out before it finds its way into the wood core.

Just some food for thought. Myself, I would paint the top rather than glass it in. More important, I would make sure to seal every penetration.
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Old 01-03-2020, 12:31 PM   #38
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When I rebuilt my 16' Scamp I fiberglassed all of the 3/4" plywood with fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin, both sides and edge.
Each piece was epoyied in place with strips of cloth "tabbing".
I had a few leaks while building what with windows not right ect and the water puddled on the top of the cloth and just sat there until I wiped it up.
If you use polyester then you need to know that water will penetrate at some point as evidenced by all of the fiberglass boats with rotten transoms and stringers.
Of utmost importance is stopping leaks, fiberglassed or not.
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Old 02-15-2020, 06:33 PM   #39
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Ah Leaks ! Well first off the only holes through my floor are the 7 carriage bolts that mount the body to the frame. NO other holes.. wiring , water drains, propane lines ALL pass through the body ABOVE the floor and use grommets or are sealed. This is the way I did the 1971 Boler.. and it's been traveling all over and still good. Being as it is My Daughter's I get to check it out each year. Glassing in the floor is also how you make it ONE with the body.. now I have the whole egg ! I'm done this part now and soon the little guy will be right side up.

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Ready to roll...
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Old 02-16-2020, 08:15 AM   #40
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your are ready

You are definitely ready for travel now!

great job

bob
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