New Floor for the Scamp - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 02-18-2020, 01:34 PM   #41
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Name: Rob
Trailer: boler & Acorn
British Columbia
Posts: 79
Yes sir... And through water and whatever you want to throw at it.. And now I mounted my dolly wheels to the bottom and once I'm finished the roof (which is easy to get at) I'll set it back right side up..

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No new holes in the floor.. using the ones to bolt it to the frame.

I wonder how many of these egg trailers that are being sold have had any attention paid to the bottom.. the frame ... the floor. And the way the floor is secured to the frame. HMMM ?

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Old 02-19-2020, 07:51 AM   #42
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Name: bob
Trailer: Was A-Liner now 13f Scamp
Missouri
Posts: 3,075
the floor

I have been under my trailer for various reasons since the plumbing was torn out there has been no water in the trailer for years. its a 98 Scamp but I have added a pump to use the 13gal water storage. we don't have a bathroom but it beats using water jugs!


I cannot believe the job you did!

bob

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Originally Posted by robeye View Post
Yes sir... And through water and whatever you want to throw at it.. And now I mounted my dolly wheels to the bottom and once I'm finished the roof (which is easy to get at) I'll set it back right side up..

Attachment 133247
No new holes in the floor.. using the ones to bolt it to the frame.

I wonder how many of these egg trailers that are being sold have had any attention paid to the bottom.. the frame ... the floor. And the way the floor is secured to the frame. HMMM ?
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Old 02-19-2020, 03:11 PM   #43
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Name: Rob
Trailer: boler & Acorn
British Columbia
Posts: 79
I had another idea that I incorporated ... The roof seamed to have a permanent droop or dip. Right were the vent was.. if you pushed it up it popped back down. So I decided to change the vent to a regular 14 " one. And to make it leak proof I wanted to raise it up. So I've glassed this frame on top of the opening and it has fixed the roof sag too. Bonus ! This makes it easy to attach the trim and screw down the vent too ! Win Win..

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And it's all easier to do with the body on it's side... Time to tip it upright.
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Old 03-09-2020, 10:28 PM   #44
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Name: Jordan
Trailer: Scamp 13ft.
Ohio
Posts: 6
floor replacement questions

Hi Rob,

Your floor work is amazingly impressive! I am blown away! I am replacing the floor in my Scamp - just started demo today - and found more rot than I knew was already there. Looks like a PO patched some places, but I would rather start with all new, and know what I have and how it's been done. I will say, this project is overwhelming for me (yes, newbie here) - I have no idea what I'm doing or how to do it, but am excited to learn, so am soaking up all the info from those of you who have done it before.

I have a couple of questions for you (or anyone else who has gone through this).

1. HOW did you remove your floor? (though I think you said your's wasn't really attached much of anywhere). I started with cutting sections out between the frame rails. Mine is screwed down to the frame in many places with now 40+ year old rusted screws and has fiberglass tabbing along the edges of the front and back raised floor. I know to keep the bottom fiberglass tab "shelf" in place to lay the new floor pieces down on and will re-tab the top and bottom once in place. But HOW do you get it out from the top tab. Mine will most likely have to be cut, but what tool is best to use so I don't go through the wall our lower tab? Yours looks so cleanly done.

2. I can't really build a cradle and take the camper off the frame - I'm working on it at a friend's house, so have limited space. I planned to keep the closet, kitchen and it's upper cabinets (with the support piece) in place to help maintain the structural integrity. I also have upper front and rear cabinets which I am also leaving in while i redo the main floor areas. Once those sections are done, I was going to take out the kitchen & closet and do the floors below them. Any other suggestions or reasons why this may not work? (other than fit around wheel wells).

3. I've never fiberglassed before. I know like most products, there are not so great and top of the line fiberglass materials (epoxy/resin/etc.), but how much does it matter with fiberglassing? I don't want to go with not so great products, but can't afford the top of the line ones either. Any input?

4. I have heard that bolting the cabin back onto the frame is a better way to go than screwing it back on. Do you or anyone else have a schematic of where to place those bolts / how that all works? I will need to have some brackets welded to my frame to do that. I can't tell in your photos where / how you did that.

I hope my floor looks half as nice as yours when I'm done! Thanks so much to you or anyone else who can help with these questions so I can move beyond my current "Flintstone's Camper" state to a camper with a whole floor again! Can't wait to see what you've done next!

With much gratitude,
Jordan
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Old 03-20-2020, 05:11 PM   #45
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Name: Addie
Trailer: Scamp 13
Georgia
Posts: 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordan O View Post
1. HOW did you remove your floor? (though I think you said your's wasn't really attached much of anywhere). I started with cutting sections out between the frame rails. Mine is screwed down to the frame in many places with now 40+ year old rusted screws and has fiberglass tabbing along the edges of the front and back raised floor. I know to keep the bottom fiberglass tab "shelf" in place to lay the new floor pieces down on and will re-tab the top and bottom once in place. But HOW do you get it out from the top tab. Mine will most likely have to be cut, but what tool is best to use so I don't go through the wall our lower tab? Yours looks so cleanly done.
Hey Jordan, I see no one has replied to you and we are in the process of putting new subfloor into our 1985 Scamp so I thought I would comment how we managed. It was SO MUCH trial and error and reading other posts but we finally got ours removed after waging a war against rusted screws the following way:

tools: reciprocating saw, multitool with halfmoon blade, small crow bar, thick/strong putty knife, 3-1 rust removal liquid

1. cut holes with reciprocating saw until we cut openings that were flush with the frame
2. used the multitool with half moon blade to cut the tab to about 1.5" back
3. used the crow bar to pry the wood off the frame (there's so much adhesive the crow bar was key); we basically pried the wood off the rusted screws. screws stayed stuck in the frame (we'll get to these later)
4. used the putty knife to get between the plywood and the tab and loosen everything and essentially pull the remaining wood out from between the tabs.
5. one we had all the wood off, we used a wire brush to clean off the rusty screws, squirted some 3-1 rust stuff on them, use a hammer to tap the screws in all directions and help the rust remover seep into the screw base. then you get your screwdriver and try turning the screw in either direction, sometimes pliers worked better. It took so much elbow grease but hammering lightly helped loosen the rust and was key. We got all our rusty screws out of the frame this way!

Hope some of this was helpful, again we're not well versed in this but we managed to get all our floor out without breaking the tab!
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Old 03-23-2020, 11:44 AM   #46
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Name: Rob
Trailer: boler & Acorn
British Columbia
Posts: 79
I used the cradle to keep the body from twisting.. And yes the floor was loose.. and the body was just sitting on the fiberglass rim /or tabs. In oder to bring the trailer home I had to strap the thing up like a package.. sounds like you have a way that will work too.. Is your frame straight ? cause that most important.. Most of those older frames were MINIMAL at best and needed the floor to keep them straight. Removing the frame from under the body is not that hard.. I've done it 4 times now. And put extra framing in.. and tabs to bolt the body down.

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There are seven carriage bolts holding the trailer to the frame.. Four on the kitchen side and three on the door side.. They are on the outer side of the frame.. two on each side under the dinette , behind the wheels.. and one on each side up front where the frame bends for the hitch. The last one is under the fridge.. if you look at these locations it will make sense..

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I can easily reach under the side of the trailer to keep these tight.
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Old 03-24-2020, 03:52 PM   #47
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Name: Jordan
Trailer: Scamp 13ft.
Ohio
Posts: 6
Hi Addie,

Thank you so much for your reply - sounds like we are working simultaneously on the same project. I had to just go for it with my floor and make it up as I went as well. Funny, I pretty much used the same tools and techniques as you did! Lots of rusted screws as well.
I was able to leave the top and bottom lip in place on the back raised floor and slid the wood out - I didn't trust myself to cut off the top lip with the wood and not damage the wall or bottom lip (my front raised floor is still in helping to hold the shape). The dropped floor section I just ripped out with crow bar since most was rotted too. Unfortunately, found that there were several large rusted holes on the top of my frame where the floor was rotted, so I had to take the shell off so I can have the frame fixed and reinforced in it's normal weak areas. I thought taking the floor out was scary!! Removing the shell from the frame nearly sent me into cardiac arrest with panic! Right now the shell is sitting on beams and the frame is at a welder friends waiting to be fixed up. Definitely worried about putting the 2 pieces back together, but will get it done and hope no catastrophes. Then will get the new floor in and bolt the whole thing to the frame. Then the real work begins!

Oh my giddy Aunt!

Wishing you lots of luck with your restoration! Hope the rest of yours goes smoothly and without any more rusted screws!!

Jordan
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Old 03-24-2020, 04:11 PM   #48
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Name: Jordan
Trailer: Scamp 13ft.
Ohio
Posts: 6
Thanks Rob for your reply! I ended up having to remove shell from frame due to finding several rusted out holes on the top side of my frame. Your way of doing it with your cradle was awesome, but I wasn't able to go that route, but mine is separated. I'm having the frame fixed and reinforcements added in the weak areas to beef it up and make it safe.

I appreciate your help with placement of your carriage bolts. I had't thought about one under the kitchen or keeping them on the outside of the frame rails to easily reach to check them. Both are great ideas!

Can't wait to see what you do next! Eagerly waiting for more tips as I move through my Scamp's full restoration!


Jordan
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Old 03-24-2020, 07:02 PM   #49
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Name: Eddie
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21, Lil Joe
Florida
Posts: 1,742
When removing Scamp floors and you have screws left in the frame, if the frame is solid just grind the screw off flush with the frame. It saves a lot of work and fills the holes in the frame.
Eddie
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Old 03-25-2020, 08:51 AM   #50
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Name: Rob
Trailer: boler & Acorn
British Columbia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordan O View Post
Thanks Rob for your reply! I ended up having to remove shell from frame due to finding several rusted out holes on the top side of my frame. Your way of doing it with your cradle was awesome, but I wasn't able to go that route, but mine is separated. I'm having the frame fixed and reinforcements added in the weak areas to beef it up and make it safe.

I appreciate your help with placement of your carriage bolts. I had't thought about one under the kitchen or keeping them on the outside of the frame rails to easily reach to check them. Both are great ideas!

Can't wait to see what you do next! Eagerly waiting for more tips as I move through my Scamp's full restoration!



Jordan

And if you have the frame out from under the body...take the time or spend the money and add more framing to support the floor. And the tabs for bolting the body to the frame .. I welded the holes left by the screws closed. I also added a 2 " receiver so you could plug in a bike carrier or this is a better way to carry a spare.

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This shows the tab , a galvinized bolt .. easy to reach and keep tight
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I also added stabilizers from a tent trailer .. they fold up nice behind the bumper..
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Old 03-25-2020, 09:27 AM   #51
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Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
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Iím curious how that works with a Scamp floor that consists of quite a few separate pieces? Seems like you would need a lot of bolts...
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Old 03-25-2020, 02:21 PM   #52
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Trailer: boler & Acorn
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Iím curious how that works with a Scamp floor that consists of quite a few separate pieces? Seems like you would need a lot of bolts...

Nope... The two most important ones are the upper rear floor (Dinette) And the front upper floor. The lower floor nestles nicely into the lower frame.. which is just angle iron or bent 16 gauge. No point to fasten to that. Those seven 3/8 bolts will hold more than those wood screws into your frame could.. And they held for 30+ years.
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Old 03-25-2020, 02:34 PM   #53
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Name: Rob
Trailer: boler & Acorn
British Columbia
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I'm quite a ways along on the Scamp.. Wiring the lights up right now and then out of the shop and the full size wheels go back on.. I roll it on an old set of 12 " rims I had so it fits under the seven foot door.

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All lights are LED of course ..

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And a nice 14 " roof vent .. raised 1-1/2 " above the roof.. I'm not working on the interior.. I will sell the Scamp like this with the fiberglass cabinets included but not installed.. I've learned that the interiors of these is a personal thing.. So here's a rolling shell ready for your touch..
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