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04-02-2013, 06:32 PM
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#61
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Member
Name: Robert
Trailer: CT13
Indiana
Posts: 78
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My suggested size to provide them is a 19 3/8 X 25 rough opening based on ensuring the trim should cover most of the router issues.
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04-02-2013, 06:34 PM
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#62
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Senior Member
Name: Diane
Trailer: Casita, previously u-haul ct13
Virginia
Posts: 1,020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Higginra
My thoughts would be to order the window with 2 trim rings. They are $11.00 ea and that would give you the flexibility of using either size.
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Robert good suggestion, sounds like I need to talk to him soon.
Bob good suggestion about the shims, what about a hard rubber mat material like used in conveyor belts. I really do not know how to fiberglass a tiny long area and have it come out the same thickness. Not afraid to try but....
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04-02-2013, 06:47 PM
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#63
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,711
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I'm cheap. I don't like to spend money to get back to even.
SOOOO. Would building up the radius corners with something like plexiglass jammed between the hulls and glued into place with Devcon Plastic Welder (Devcon Plastic Welder is a toughened structural adhesive formulated for bonding dissimilar substrates), then putting at least two layers of butyl around the window frame and clamped into place... then with blue painters tape... neatly outlining the window frame using Proflex to seal the window frame to the body...
Would this work?
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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04-02-2013, 06:50 PM
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#64
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Senior Member
Name: Diane
Trailer: Casita, previously u-haul ct13
Virginia
Posts: 1,020
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[QUOTE=Thomas G.;374796]OK, I think I finally get it. The wall thickness at the bottom was too thick and maybe not flat as it should have been on one or both pieces (inner and outer walls). So after they bonded the two halves together, they couldn't install the window. They decided to grind off the inner wall on the window opening perimeter and just use the outer wall as the mounting surface.
This is exactly right...sorry i was having such a hard time trying to explain this...and we are finally getting to a solution... Thank you all so much for all your inputs.
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04-02-2013, 06:55 PM
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#65
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Senior Member
Name: Diane
Trailer: Casita, previously u-haul ct13
Virginia
Posts: 1,020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D.
I'm cheap. I don't like to spend money to get back to even.
SOOOO. Would building up the radius corners with something like plexiglass jammed between the hulls and glued into place with Devcon Plastic Welder (Devcon Plastic Welder is a toughened structural adhesive formulated for bonding dissimilar substrates), then putting at least two layers of butyl around the window frame and clamped into place... then with blue painters tape... neatly outlining the window frame using Proflex to seal the window frame to the body...
Would this work?
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Donna I'm Cheap too!!! Have to be...
This sounds good to me too. We are all working together, I think parts of everyone's latter suggestions are all do-able! Hurray!!!!
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04-02-2013, 06:58 PM
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#66
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 5,112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D.
I'm cheap. I don't like to spend money to get back to even.
SOOOO. Would building up the radius corners with something like plexiglass jammed between the hulls and glued into place with Devcon Plastic Welder (Devcon Plastic Welder is a toughened structural adhesive formulated for bonding dissimilar substrates), then putting at least two layers of butyl around the window frame and clamped into place... then with blue painters tape... neatly outlining the window frame using Proflex to seal the window frame to the body...
Would this work?
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I think that we have narrowed down the problem to be that the wall is much thicker at the bottom than at the top. A clamp ring window should seal OK on the outside, but we need to figure out how to make the clamp ring work on the inside with a varying wall thickness. One option is to get a clamp ring sized for the thickest part and shim under it with wood at the thin part of the wall.
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04-02-2013, 07:36 PM
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#67
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Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,416
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Rubber mat - I've used pieces of old truck mudflap as shims, even ground some pieces into a wedge shape to mount Thule bars on a roof rack. When I worked on trucks before retiring, I saved some mudflap pieces for whatever I could use them for. If you do use a rubber shim at least it won't split like wood might. If you have a license plate that hangs on a bracket by only 2 bolts, mounting it on a mudflap piece first strengthens it and will help keep it from cracking, a trick we used in the shop. A plain truck mudflap generally has two different thickness sections, you don't want the kind that have all little knobs, they are designed to cut down on spray. If there is a truck repair shop, or truck stop near you they may have a piece as they are always getting torn off and sometimes the new ones have to be shortened.
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04-02-2013, 07:41 PM
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#68
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,711
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The last thing I would use is wood. We've read too many horror stories about Trilliums with rotton wood around the windows... but, that doesn't discount the moisture problem. Whatever is used has to be sealed on the outside, whether rubber or plexiglass or built up fiberglass.
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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04-02-2013, 07:58 PM
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#69
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Senior Member
Name: Diane
Trailer: Casita, previously u-haul ct13
Virginia
Posts: 1,020
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I am thinking of this epoxy putty not sure yet, you have to work very fast with it., check it out, it's made for fiberglass underwater boat hull repair...
Marine Tex, epoxy resin, adhesives, silicone grease, engine treatment, cleaner, repair, bond, fill, seal, fiberglass, aluminum, plastics, Starboard, wood
Bob, I also live near a plant that makes rubber conveyor belt mats and rubber mats for other stuff as well. That's where I got my Battery box seal layer from. They gave it to me.
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04-03-2013, 06:11 AM
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#70
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 5,112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D Davis
I am thinking of this epoxy putty not sure yet, you have to work very fast with it., check it out, it's made for fiberglass underwater boat hull repair...
Marine Tex, epoxy resin, adhesives, silicone grease, engine treatment, cleaner, repair, bond, fill, seal, fiberglass, aluminum, plastics, Starboard, wood
Bob, I also live near a plant that makes rubber conveyor belt mats and rubber mats for other stuff as well. That's where I got my Battery box seal layer from. They gave it to me.
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I'm a little slow this morning. Where would you use the Marine Tex? To clean up the bottom of the window sill or to shim out the top of the clap ring, or......?
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04-03-2013, 06:37 AM
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#71
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Senior Member
Name: Diane
Trailer: Casita, previously u-haul ct13
Virginia
Posts: 1,020
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To build out the thickness of the bottom outer shell edge to 1/4 " , it is not uniform in thickness , and to clean up bottom, not for a shim.
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04-03-2013, 06:39 AM
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#72
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 5,112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D Davis
To build out the thickness of the bottom outer shell edge to 1/4 " , it is not uniform in thickness , and to clean up bottom
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Gotcha.
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04-05-2013, 06:31 PM
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#73
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Member
Name: Robert
Trailer: CT13
Indiana
Posts: 78
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How are you doing on the window frame?
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04-05-2013, 07:49 PM
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#74
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Senior Member
Name: Diane
Trailer: Casita, previously u-haul ct13
Virginia
Posts: 1,020
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Robert, I am going to go over and try to get my camper tomorrow. I will have to figure out a way, and work to get them to a point where I can travel home with the camper. Then I want to precisely measure the bottom and bottom radius on that curve. AND Call you. HA! I have one day before the rain begins to try to apply fiberglass matt to the bottom outer shell edge. it is so thin. I need to talk to you
by phone when you have the time.
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04-25-2013, 06:56 AM
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#75
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Senior Member
Name: Diane
Trailer: Casita, previously u-haul ct13
Virginia
Posts: 1,020
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Update: Sold the original windows, have tempory plexiglass in the opening now, have bought the fiberglass resin and matt have read how to, have contacted a professional glassman who is coming by the house tomorrow to finish the lockstrip on the exit window (I got 3/4 around and could not finish) and render his opinions on the other one... Went camping last week and tarped the trailer.
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04-25-2013, 06:59 AM
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#76
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 5,112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D Davis
...........Went camping last week.......
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This is the great part! You will have it fixed soon and have lots of adventures this summer.
PS: Lots of helpful videos on fiberglassing on YouTube.
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04-25-2013, 09:20 AM
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#77
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Senior Member
Name: Diane
Trailer: Casita, previously u-haul ct13
Virginia
Posts: 1,020
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Thanks Thomas!
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04-25-2013, 08:44 PM
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#78
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Moderator
Trailer: U-Haul 1985
Posts: 3,436
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D Davis
Update: Sold the original windows, have tempory plexiglass in the opening now, have bought the fiberglass resin and matt have read how to, have contacted a professional glassman who is coming by the house tomorrow to finish the lockstrip on the exit window (I got 3/4 around and could not finish) and render his opinions on the other one... Went camping last week and tarped the trailer.
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Well, fudge! sometimes cruddy things happen to the best of us but I'm glad to hear that you're making good times despite the challenge! It will get done and you'll be a Happy Camper. As Red Green says 'we're pulling fer ya'
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04-26-2013, 07:14 AM
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#79
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Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,416
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What about the new clamp ring window idea, did you give up on that? I think it's going to be difficult to reshape the opening with fiberglass, but without actually seeing it I can't make a good judgement on that solution.
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