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Old 08-14-2020, 06:29 PM   #1
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Trailer: Boler
British Columbia
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New tires fit one side only...

I bought some new 13Ē wheels with ST-175/80R13 tires from princess auto. I consulted the internet prior to purchase which suggested they should fit. To my surprise when installing, I found one tire to fit with about 1/2Ē clearance, while the other is binding on the fibreglass wheel well. Looking for some guidance from the group.

Worth noting. The trailer has brakes which were decommissioned years ago and are not in use. Axel I believe is original, but suspension seems to be working okay. The wheel trail behind the axel.

Are the axel mounting points adjustable? Is the body crooked on the frame? There is tons of clearance towards the rear, can I somehow shift the axel back?

Thanks for your input.
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Old 08-14-2020, 06:41 PM   #2
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New tires fit one side only...

First, do the wheels have the same offset as the ones you took off? I think- not positive- most trailers take a zero offset.

Second, if the axle is original, itís way past its expiration. This appears to be an early-mid 80ís Boler, no? Rubber torsion axles have a normal working lifespan of around 20 years, though they can roll on well past that with gradually deteriorating ride height and ride quality.
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Old 08-14-2020, 06:57 PM   #3
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The new wheels and tires do sit about 5/8” further outboard than the old ones, which makes some sense as the tire is a 175 while the old ones were 155. I can understand this, and it might be the difference between them rubbing or not, but I’m more baffled / concerned about why one fits and the other doesn’t.

Noted about the axle. I do intend to replace down the road, but was hoping to not do it this year...
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Old 08-14-2020, 07:20 PM   #4
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On my Boler 13 (since sold), the wheels with tires mounted were a tight fit to get into the wheel well and onto the hub. One side (I believe the door side) was tighter than the other. I got around the problem by letting some air out of the tire.

I don't recall whether the fit improved when I replaced the axle. It probably did because the old axle arm was about 10 degrees up, while the new axle arm was 10 or 20 degrees down.
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Old 08-14-2020, 07:52 PM   #5
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New tires fit one side only...

Yes, it is normal for the fit to be tighter on the curb side due to the frame cutout for the door. The shell is not symmetrical. My Scamp is really tight at the front of the wheel arch right next to the door.

Not sure how to accommodate the wider tire. Need a Boler person to speak to that. My Scamp is newer and had 175ís (I think) from the factory. I replaced with the same size.
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Old 08-14-2020, 08:21 PM   #6
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Interesting. Mine seems to be the opposite though. Door side fits, while the opposite side doesn’t.

Maybe if I were to replace the axle with a non drum brake version the wheels could be inset further? Or maybe loosen all the frame to body bolts and rotate the body on the frame?

It does seem like there are two types (maybe more) of lower moulds? Ours the fibreglass is formed back inside the wheel well, while others I’ve seen the fibreglass just kinda stops with a sharp edge. Make sense?
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Old 08-14-2020, 08:40 PM   #7
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New tires fit one side only...

Thatís good point. My Scamp molds are derived from the older Boler molds with a closed wheel well.

Iíd sure hate to give up brakes, though.
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Old 08-14-2020, 08:41 PM   #8
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On my Boler 13, the rather fat tires had to be squeezed into position, temporarily deforming the fiberglass body. I believe letting air out of the tires (the more the better) helped.

If your axle currently has drum brakes, I believe you can remove the brake backing plate assembly (four bolts) and replace the drum with a much more compact standard hub. Should make it easier to put on the wheels.
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Old 08-14-2020, 09:41 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John in Michigan View Post
On my Boler 13, the rather fat tires had to be squeezed into position, temporarily deforming the fiberglass body. I believe letting air out of the tires (the more the better) helped.

If your axle currently has drum brakes, I believe you can remove the brake backing plate assembly (four bolts) and replace the drum with a much more compact standard hub. Should make it easier to put on the wheels.
I did left air out to get the tires on. It was fairly easy to get them on. The tire rubs a little less when the axle is unweighted.

Interesting idea about replacing the drum hubs with a non brake hub. Iíll look into that.
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Old 08-14-2020, 09:43 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
Thatís good point. My Scamp molds are derived from the older Boler molds with a closed wheel well.

Iíd sure hate to give up brakes, though.
Iíve never had working brakes on it, so I guess I donít know any better. Itís so light relative to my truck that I hardly feel it. Might be a bigger issue If rowing with a smaller vehicle.
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Old 08-14-2020, 09:53 PM   #11
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Old 08-14-2020, 10:08 PM   #12
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A lot of older small fiberglass trailers originally used 155 80 13s

I don't even know if you can buy them anymore.
175s are the norm.
Of course the axle might have worn a bit as well.


A zero axle replacement with zero offset wheels may work.
Measure first.
If the problem is offset and there is room to the inside, then maybe a positive offset wheel would work?


Sorry for the rambling, but this one really needs a good eye on it to see the answer.


One more point, does anyone still make a low profile 13?
If not, they do still make 12s
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Old 08-14-2020, 10:12 PM   #13
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1/2Ē clearance

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffpepperdine View Post
Thanks for your input.
Note that 1/2Ē clearance is too close for American highways. I went to 14" on my Scamp and found that the two wheel openings were different shapes as well. I got out the saw and cut the small one to match the larger. I still added a lift kit for even more clearance.
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Old 08-14-2020, 10:19 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by floyd View Post
A zero axle replacement with zero offset wheels
By this, do you mean zero degree torsion axle angle?

Iím reading the boler standard is +10 degrees. Also, Iím noting that most bolers have leading wheels (in front of the axle), while mine the wheels are trailing? Did they change at some point?
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Old 08-15-2020, 05:36 AM   #15
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When I went to 14" tires on my modified Scamp 16 with a Flexiride axle I had to install steel wheelwells and cut out the fiberglass to have room for them to fit and also be able to change one on the Highway. I had to cut about 1 1 1/2" extra clearance for them.
I didn't do a very good jog of shaping the wheel cutout as I just was making sure I could remove and replace the tire flat or inflated with the trailer as it would be on the side of the road.
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Old 08-15-2020, 05:56 AM   #16
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1/2 inch clearance is not nearly enough. I'd say both don't fit. Given the age of the trailer, a new axle with some lift would be a good investment, as you have a nice trailer!
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Old 08-15-2020, 06:25 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffpepperdine View Post
I bought some new 13” wheels with ST-175/80R13 tires from princess auto. I consulted the internet prior to purchase which suggested they should fit. To my surprise when installing, I found one tire to fit with about 1/2” clearance, while the other is binding on the fibreglass wheel well. Looking for some guidance from the group.

Worth noting. The trailer has brakes which were decommissioned years ago and are not in use. Axel I believe is original, but suspension seems to be working okay. The wheel trail behind the axel.

Are the axel mounting points adjustable? Is the body crooked on the frame? There is tons of clearance towards the rear, can I somehow shift the axel back?

Thanks for your input.

There is a lot in this to respond to. I'm going to do an educated guess that the axle was replaced at one time. 5 x 4.5" bolt pattern, trailing arm and e-brakes were likely not original. Then again there were so many flavours of the boler produced over the years - who knows?


boler bodies are offset on the frame to allow for a bigger kitchen floor and a deeper kitchen cabinet. If the axle was centered to the frame the wheels will be offset to the body.


swapping to a different tire size may help. Years ago I posted a lengthy thread on doing an axle swap. I also discuss tire sizes. Given that your boler is slightly different than mine there may be some variations.
https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...arm-37248.html
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Old 08-15-2020, 10:50 AM   #18
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So the old wheels have a 39mm offset, while the new ones are zero. This combined with the new wider tire means the new tire is about an inch further outboard. Tons of room for the tires in the wheel well, it’s just to tight where the fibreglass wraps over the tire.

Thanks everyone for the input, now I have to figure out if there is a way to accommodate the new wheel via hub modification or new axle.. or just get rid of the new rims.
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Old 08-15-2020, 01:34 PM   #19
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Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffpepperdine View Post
By this, do you mean zero degree torsion axle angle?

Iím reading the boler standard is +10 degrees. Also, Iím noting that most bolers have leading wheels (in front of the axle), while mine the wheels are trailing? Did 248they change at some point?
I did mean 0į torsion axle. I don't know about Boler, but Scamp did eventually switch to trailing arms from leading arms.


Both types are available in up down and Zero.
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