New WEN generator question - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-15-2020, 08:25 AM   #21
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For that last fuel of the year run non-ethanol fuel with stabilizer and run the generator dry.
I bought a dual fuel generator and have not yet put any gasoline in it, running just off LPG to keep this problem at bay.
At the house I lucked on a 10 KW Hatz Diesel generator that looks like new for $200. Cranked up first try. I added Diesel fuel treatment to the tank just for fun. (not I also have a Diesel Touareg so keeping a lottle extra Diesel fuel around during hurricane season might be a good idea anyway).
The extra I paid for the dual fuel is worth it as I just added a second LP tank to the trailer for the generator as one tank will run for 20 hours. I did this because the TV (Touareg) uses DIesel and not gas and I hate having a gas can to deal with anyway.
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Old 07-15-2020, 10:25 AM   #22
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Wen sent me their high altitude kit for the 2350i but with no instructions how to insert it. I know that little brass jet goes into the carburetor but, does it replace the jet already in there or, as one U-tube video for these jets (but not this one) says, it should go in after the one already in there. What to do? Waiting for a Wen response to this question.
that certainly should have come with an instruction sheet, I note even the owners manual for that generator says to follow the instructions with the kit.

there's no way you could stack that jet with another, look at the threads.
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Old 07-15-2020, 11:52 AM   #23
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Agree...That makes perfect sense to me, John. I watched a guy on u-tube adding a high altitude jet to a carburetor similar to mine but not the same one, and that's what he was doing. Got me totally confused, since this is my first ever carburetor quest.

Got to find a way to remove the thing to access the old jet.
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Old 07-15-2020, 12:11 PM   #24
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Higher octane actually slows down combustion flame travel speed, thus preventing explosion producing engine knock.
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Old 07-15-2020, 12:29 PM   #25
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Agree...That makes perfect sense to me, John. I watched a guy on u-tube adding a high altitude jet to a carburetor similar to mine but not the same one, and that's what he was doing. Got me totally confused, since this is my first ever carburetor quest.

Got to find a way to remove the thing to access the old jet.
That carburetor looks very conventional in design. It's likely you can replace the jet by simply removing the carb bowl with the bolt on the bottom of it.

Take that bolt out, tap on the bowl with the plastic handle of a screwdriver to pop it loose. Careful with the gasket. Look in the center of the carburetor, where the bolt screwed in, and find the jet that looks just like the one you want to install. Switch them. Replace the bowl. Done. Of course, I have never worked on a WEN, but that all looks very conventional. It might save you the trouble of taking the carb off.

I still recommend you try running it first with the stock jetting. Engines are set up extremely lean these days to meet CARB emission standards. A bit rich will produce a bit more pollution, but not likely a noticeable power difference between non high altitude jetting and high altitude jetting. My Yamaha, for instance, runs the same at 7500 ft as it does down lower, but just has less power due to the atmospheric pressure.
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Old 07-15-2020, 12:46 PM   #26
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Higher octane actually slows down combustion flame travel speed, thus preventing explosion producing engine knock.
The more accepted view is that the flame starts in more than one location, by heat, carbon buildup, and high compression, which can ignite low octane fuel separate from the spark plug. Two flame fronts come together to cause the sound and explosively quick pressure build up that can damage the engine, and reduce power, under extreme or prolonged conditions.

High octane fuels resist this separate ignition source, other than the spark at the spark plug, better than low octane fuels do. The octane rating is, in practice, a way of describing how resistant the fuel is to being ignited.

This describes it better than I can:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_knocking
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Old 07-15-2020, 06:42 PM   #27
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Well I couldn’t wait any longer for the Wen people to get back to me with answers on altitude jet replacement installation protocols so I tackled the job without them. How dangerous could a wade into these unknown shark-infested generator waters be?

First obstacle was the faceplate screws. Was so difficult I thought Wen glued two on. Gonna need a bigger screwdriver, Wen. Next was making sense of why they positioned the air filter casing so that access to the carburetor and bowl holding nuts required teeny tiny fingers , teeny tiny tools, and giant sized anger management. That’s the biggie here, pilgrims.

Ah, but wait. The good news is that that little brass jet I am replacing is not where I expected it to be. I saw it immediately but thought that was a different screw. The u-tube videos indicated the jet would be inside the center shaft used by the bowl holding bolt. It soon became clear the replaceable jet is as seen here in my picture. This cleared up all my earlier concerns.

It is not your mothers’ carburetor. Looking forward to tomorrow when I put it all back together. Hoping there's no leakage.
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Old 07-17-2020, 09:18 PM   #28
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I field tested my Wen 2350 in the back yard today. The high altitude jet is installed. Doing that will not be anyone's favorite work, unless they have tiny fingers.

Fired up on the first pull every time. It ran beautifully on a gallon of ethanol free gas until after 5 hours it got dark out and had to shut it down. That neat shut-off throttle feature that runs the engine until all fuel still in the carburetor is used works nicely.

It runs the fridge and the microwave with no complaints. It is amazingly, awesomely quiet in eco-mode. It totally failed to run my Dometic 11,000 btu air conditioner.

I have posted two videos I made on the process on U-tube. The first is titled Wen 2350 generator and the second is titled Wen 23501st test. For all the gory details type either in the U-tube search window.
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Old 07-18-2020, 02:57 PM   #29
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Tried Carl's suggestion (thanks for the private message Carl) but the ac still failed. Carl suggested turning off breakers in the WFCO for the converter. No joy.

So I went back to the Dometic AC operating manual, which I now see (clearly) states it requires 3500 watts minimum generator size. It also states ***keep in mind generators lose power at high altitudes.

How did I miss that? (It was in 6 point type.) Looking like the only work-around is get second generator for in tandem. Bummer that. Wen starting watts is 2350, running watts is 1900.

Just could not make wishful thinking work.
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Old 07-19-2020, 01:51 PM   #30
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Really liking this Wen. Now looking like my best move is to either buy another Wen and their tandem kit or, invest in the Micro-air Easy Start and do that install in the ac. The second option though costly clearly is the cost efficient solution.
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Old 07-19-2020, 03:26 PM   #31
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Go with micro-air. It's a no brainer. Simple 30 minutes install.
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Old 07-19-2020, 04:47 PM   #32
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Tried Carl's suggestion (thanks for the private message Carl) but the ac still failed. Carl suggested turning off breakers in the WFCO for the converter. No joy.

So I went back to the Dometic AC operating manual, which I now see (clearly) states it requires 3500 watts minimum generator size. It also states ***keep in mind generators lose power at high altitudes.

How did I miss that? (It was in 6 point type.) Looking like the only work-around is get second generator for in tandem. Bummer that. Wen starting watts is 2350, running watts is 1900.

Just could not make wishful thinking work.
I am somewhat at a loss for words, Myron. Given that you indicate an Escape Trailer which uses an 11,000 BTU Dometic Penguin, I am surprised that the A/C will not start. Do you have the digital thermostat? With the digital thermostat, the fan starts before the compressor kicks in. I’m not sure how the A/C starts without the digital thermostat, but if both the fan and compressor are starting at the same time that could be the problem. My A/C will run on my Honda EU2000i. I am 200 feet above sea level. I did add the Micro Air Soft Start so that I could run other things, but the A/C ran fine on the Honda before I added the Soft Start. Go for the Soft Start SS Sergey suggests. It’s easier on the A/C unit anyway.
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Old 07-19-2020, 08:20 PM   #33
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No separate thermostat connected to my Penguin II. Strictly manual start from the two ceiling control dials. Right dial is the thermostat cooling level. Left dial turns the unit on. When I turn the dial to the right, at AC/fan, (compressor now on) then everything freaks out and shuts down.

Turning to the left only turns the fan on, and it does. Altitude here is 6600 feet so this may be a factor but that high altitude carb jet is in there and all the other appliances work great. Cannot turn the ac on separate from the fan.
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Old 07-21-2020, 07:23 PM   #34
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Nothing to do now but wait for my inner Jack Benny to make a decision.

Just changed the oil, (after 26 hrs run time it was black) and bought a few toys. Ordered a weather proof cover, a digital engine hour meter, a little 10mm ratchet, and a nice pouch to keep tools together hanging off the carry handle.
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Old 07-22-2020, 07:59 AM   #35
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Just did a double-check and the ceramic heater works excellently at all thermostat levels so long as its internal fan is kept at low. Get the orange light only when changing fan to high. Same issue with the hair dryer - heat great on low but kick it up to high fan and no go.

Controls of air conditioner are consistent. Turn left to fan and it blows. Coolish air but not super cold, regardless of thermostat setting on right dial. It's 75 degrees here currently. Turn left dial over to the right and Boom, crash!

So Carl, I don't get the logic here. Why did you spend $300 for an easy start add-on to the ac if the Honda already turns it on easily and isn't that it's only purpose?
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Old 07-23-2020, 07:58 AM   #36
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Here's a link to a video I made that seems to sum things up.

https://youtu.be/LU0zxKQmJCM
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Old 07-23-2020, 09:36 AM   #37
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..om, crash!

So Carl, I don't get the logic here. Why did you spend $300 for an easy start add-on to the ac if the Honda already turns it on easily and isn't that it's only purpose?
I know why I would want an Easy Start, beyond just getting the A/C to run on a specific generator...
1. The Thump noise when the compressor kicks on is eliminated or greatly reduced. That noise bothers some people.
2. Low voltage can harm the compressor over time, so even if the A/C seems to run fine on the generator, if it is under-powered you might be looking at problems in the future (repeat, "might").
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Old 07-23-2020, 10:17 AM   #38
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So Carl, I don't get the logic here. Why did you spend $300 for an easy start add-on to the ac if the Honda already turns it on easily and isn't that it's only purpose?
1st, because the Easy Start ramps up the start and is theoretically easier on the A/C.

2nd, at some point in the future I may plan a higher altitude (I live right at 200 feet above sea level) boondocking trip and want to be able to sleep in cool air, if necessary. I typically donít take the Honda with me but I am prepared for all contingencies.
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Old 07-23-2020, 10:53 AM   #39
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The Easy-Start has a very creative and well made strategy for AC starting. It significantly reduces the instantaneous starting load. So even if someone is close to the limit, but still has reliable starting, it is a good addition to the system. And high altitude really takes the power away from these small generators that are running near capacity.
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Old 07-23-2020, 12:26 PM   #40
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When I started this thread I didn't know Jack. Things are different now.
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