Newer Scamp 13, Fiamma awning legs wall brackets install
I am considering installing the Fiamma factory awning leg wall brackets that came with my 2018 Scamp13. I would like to install the wall brackets at the lower edge of the fiberglass camper.
I think that it would be best if the wall brackets were installed so that legs were in line with the brackets and the awning mounting area for the legs, not offset at an angle. This would almost necessitate using aluminum angle brackets offset at the rounded bottom corners of the Scamp to keep the legs straight.
Has anyone installed their Scamp13 Fiamma factory awning wall brackets on their Scamp13 and if so please post pictures showing how and where you mounted the wall brackets.
I installed the brackets on the lower fiberglass in the rear taking a piece of PVC 1" trim board shaped to fit the curve of the trailer. It is important to get the bracket vertical and square with the awning for an easy hookup.
On my 16 ' Scamp the front extended past the front of the trailer and I mounted the bracket on the frame which on my extended frame is straight at that point.
You will have to make a wedge to attach the bracket to to correct the geometry.
It works well and I have less fear of the wind blowing the awning all asunder with the legs firmly attached to the Scamp instead of just pegged to the ground.
On my 13 I think that the front and back will be past the camper by a few inches and I will have to have backing on the both sides of the mounting area for proper support.
Can you supply a picture of the rear mounting section?
Has anyone else come up with the mounting, if so please post pictures.
Jack,
I've installed the brackets for the Dometic "window-shade" style awning. This was against Kent Eveland's desire. He said he was afraid we would let the wind swing the door back and bend the awning legs! I told him that was my prerogative and responsibility to see it doesnt happen...AND my decision- not his. They didnt even include the brackets with the Scamp because of this. I told him if they came with my awning, send them to me & he did.
This coming September will make 9 yrs since I installed them and not ONE minute's problem!! Below are two pics showing how I mounted mine and NO, I did not have to put anything behind them because they're mounted right at the curve of the Scamp and not in the curve.
I'm not advocating to mount them angled, it's just that mine came out where they were straight enough so I didnt have to make a special backing plate or anything. Yours may be different with the Fiama so keep that in mind. Hope this helps you out some.... (EDIT: I believe I used a backing washer on the inside with the rivet!)
did that with the brackets for the Dometic awning on our 16 ft Scamp.
made hardwood blocks to allow for the curvature of the Scamp.
the one to the rear, located so a long wood screw went through the fiberglass and into the wood rail under the bed.
For the forward one, I used two through bolts with fender washers on the inside. this was inside the closet just ahead of the entry door.
The holes in the wood blocks were counterbored so the screw heads were recessed. the blocks were about one inch thick, by 3 inches long and 1.5" wide.
Here is the pix of the Fiamma instructions and brackets. Darral, they are some what different from your brackets, but they do have all the hardware necessary to mount directly to Scamp. Its just a matter of where.
Jack
Hi, I have a 2006 Scamp 16 foot trailer with an awning and would like to know where to get the sidemounted clamps? Also I need the pole for pulling it out. Does anybody know where I can purchase one about? Thank you.
You got me thinking. The previous owner of our 13 saved everything, including the entire awning parts bag. I've pondered installing the brackets, but not moved forward until now. A triangle is far stronger than the rectangle created with the legs vertical. The door issue was the main obstacle, but after reading the post from Darral, damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead. Heck, if the wind picks up, retract the awning and secure the door.
I found the curvature of the fiberglass and the small amount of rotation necessary to have the support leg feet sit flush on the camper side will not be an issue. The legs will angle slightly toward the centerline of the camper. I started to describe the process, but will include photos when the project is completed.
Now to the and portion. In the parts assortment, there was a small bag labelled 98655-095. A quick search revealed these are the mounting clips for the awning crank. I installed them on the wood portion of the door frame, toward the rear of the camper. Better than under the front sofa cushion that we had been using. Picture attached. Off to the shop.
Will be looking forward as to the outcome of the wall brackets mounted. I had considered mounting the brackets directly to the Scamp bottom fiberglass area and hoped that angle would not be too severe.
First, I made two backing blocks slightly larger than the black plastic pieces in the parts kit, and thicker than the two protrusions which accept the screws, drilled two slightly oversized holes and inserted the plastic pieces into the blocks. As the fiberglass layup is far thinner that the Fiamma instructions show, the blocks are necessary.
First, a photo of a block in place under the front sofa area, passengers side.
Next I supported the awning in the extended condition and brought the forward support leg to the side of the camper. By bringing the leg slightly to the rear and rotating the foot slightly I was able to acquire a flush fit with the camper. I marked the top hole in the foot. Then I departed from the directions and drilled a hole the same diameter as the hole in the support piece, not the 10mm dia hole specified. Drill slowly and only penetrate the fiberglass layup. Note: I used brad point drill bits which provided an extremely smooth and accurate cut in the fiberglass shell.
Now the fun part, getting the small "u" shaped shim to stay in place while the assembly was aligned with the existing hole. Per the diagram in the instructions, first the bracket, then shim, then rubber shim finally a screw in the top hole. I found silicone was able to hold the small metal shim in place, but your results may vary. (Ever heard that before?). I penetrated the insulation and rat fir with an awl, then threaded the screw into the hole. With this assembly relatively secure, go into the camper, under the sofa and carefully engage the plastic/wood block onto the screw. Back to the outside and thread the screw most of the way into the backing block assembly. Rotate the backing block to vertical and carefully drill the bottom hole, just through the fiberglass layup using the bracket as a guide. Insert the screw, rotate the screw until you are certain you are into the plastic in the backing block assembly and tighten, then tighten the top screw.
Because of the fresh water tank, positioning of the bracket at the rear is solely dependent on where you or your assistant are able to reach. There is not a lot of clearance in this area. Repeat the process used on the forward bracket, only drill enough to just penetrate the layup.
The next photos show the relative location of the forward and aft support brackets. Take your time, measure twice and drill once.
The setup is far more rigid than the awning legs on the ground, but it is individual preference as to even attempting this installation. If the vertical legs suit your situation, then that is the best option. As mentioned by Darral, it is your responsibility to keep the door from hitting the forward support arm. Keep in mind the Fiamma directions say to roll up the awning in the wind, which make the door a mute point.
1)"brad point drill bits" is this an actual brad used as a drill bit, if so what gauge, or is it something special?
2)Also, how thick of a block did you use? I take it is Azek vinyl or something similar.
One other thing, be careful removing the pole from the mounts. They hold the pole so tight, its possible to bend the pole slightly.
1.) Brad Point Bit. If you look at the picture you will see there is a sharp point at the tip of the drill, but more important for our use, there are cutters on the outside diameter of the drill. The point assures the drill bit does not walk across the surface and the cutters make a very clean cut on the surface before the flutes of the drill enter the fiberglass, resulting in a very nice hole, no chipping at all.
2.) I used a piece of pine, not concerned about moisture as per the directions, silicone is spread over the holes penetrating the fiberglass. This, combined with the rubber shim will prevent any penetration of water into the camper. Regarding thickness, see the attached photo. The backing block should contact the inner surface of the camper before the plastic tips which receive the mounting screws.
To remove the legs from the brackets, extend the awning, remove each leg and set them on the ground, then retract the awning.
Hi, I have a 2006 Scamp 16 foot trailer with an awning and would like to know where to get the sidemounted clamps? Also I need the pole for pulling it out. Does anybody know where I can purchase one about? Thank you.
I recently added the side mounts to our '05 16' Scamp, I'm guessing you have the same Dometic Catalina as I do. I only expect to use the side brackets if parked on a hard surface where I can't nail my awning legs down.
I got my side brackets off Ebay.
You might find the pole there too, although you could probably cobble one up at your local hardware store, it's just an aluminum rod with a hook threaded in one end and a prod threaded on the other end that fits in the small holes near the center of the awning cover.
__________________
Dave (and Marilyn who is now watching from above)
Sharpsburg, GA
04 Dodge Dakota V-8, 17 Dodge Durango V-6, 19 Ford Ranger 2.3 Ecoboost
radar1-scamping.blogspot.com
I told him that was my prerogative and responsibility to see it doesnt happen...AND my decision- not his. They didnt even include the brackets with the Scamp because of this. I told him if they came with my awning, send them to me & he did.
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