No hot water with gas, Casita - Fiberglass RV
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Old 02-22-2020, 09:00 AM   #1
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Name: corvetteguy
Trailer: Casita
Virginia
Posts: 34
No hot water with gas, Casita

This is what I have checked so far. Gas propane tank is full and connected. Stove is working. Water heats on electricity. Both 12V and and breaker fuse are good. Switch for gas inside turned on but no red light. Pushed the reset buttons inside the water heater cabinet. I can't even hear it trying to light. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks
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Old 02-22-2020, 11:02 AM   #2
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Name: Bill
Trailer: Casita
New Mexico
Posts: 14
Maybe this will help...

https://rvshare.com/blog/rv-hot-wate...g-and-parts-2/

There are also a lot of YouTube videos on RV water heater problems & fixes. Most are generally due to insects, dust & dirt clogging the burner tube & gas feed.

Good luck!
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Old 02-22-2020, 11:04 AM   #3
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Name: Jack
Trailer: Casita Liberty
Virginia
Posts: 650
Is the igniter dirty?
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Old 02-22-2020, 08:42 PM   #4
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Name: Jann
Trailer: Casita
Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garyhall View Post
This is what I have checked so far. Gas propane tank is full and connected. Stove is working. Water heats on electricity. Both 12V and and breaker fuse are good. Switch for gas inside turned on but no red light. Pushed the reset buttons inside the water heater cabinet. I can't even hear it trying to light. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks
We had a problem with ours once. Upon getting home we looked into the compartment where the tank is from the top panel under the dinette seat. There's a connector that lays on top of the tank. When we had pulled the electric cord out it caught on the connector somehow and pulled it loose. Put it back together and it worked. We had no clue there was a connector in a hidden location.
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Old 02-25-2020, 09:36 AM   #5
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Name: carolyn
Trailer: 2005 casita sd
Michigan
Posts: 140
Quote:
Originally Posted by garyhall View Post
This is what I have checked so far. Gas propane tank is full and connected. Stove is working. Water heats on electricity. Both 12V and and breaker fuse are good. Switch for gas inside turned on but no red light. Pushed the reset buttons inside the water heater cabinet. I can't even hear it trying to light. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks

For us the hot water wasn't getting out of the hot water tank so we took the by pass valve out and cleaned it so it would work properly to let the hot water flow out of the tank. That was last fall, we will see if it still works this spring.
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Old 02-25-2020, 12:25 PM   #6
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Name: jon
Trailer: 2013 Casita 17' SD
Illinois
Posts: 146
Same thing happened to us as Jann Todd described. It is fast and easy to check. That solved out problem.


jon
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Old 02-25-2020, 11:04 PM   #7
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Name: Elliott
Trailer: Bigfoot
Everywhere
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It's not trying to light at all? No hiss of gas flowing and no igniter spark? If that's the case, my suspicion would be that it's not getting 12V power at all. A blown fuse, a loose wire, or a loose connection. If it is getting power it's possible that it's the igniter board (I'd suggest going with Dinosaur for the replacement if it is).

It's also possible that the limit switch (the thing that reset button resets) has gone bad and needs to be replaced. It should be relatively easy to bypass to test.
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Old 02-27-2020, 03:05 PM   #8
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Name: corvetteguy
Trailer: Casita
Virginia
Posts: 34
loose connection

Quote:
Originally Posted by Defenestrator View Post
It's not trying to light at all? No hiss of gas flowing and no igniter spark? If that's the case, my suspicion would be that it's not getting 12V power at all. A blown fuse, a loose wire, or a loose connection. If it is getting power it's possible that it's the igniter board (I'd suggest going with Dinosaur for the replacement if it is).

It's also possible that the limit switch (the thing that reset button resets) has gone bad and needs to be replaced. It should be relatively easy to bypass to test.

The problem was resolved as suggested above. The igniter board casing had been pulled loose by pulling out the 30 amp power cord. In the Casita the power cord is shoved in the side cubby and can get caught and wrap itself around items stored in the same location as the hot water heater. In my case it got hooked on the igniter board case and evidently when I pulled out the 30 amp power cord it pulled the igniter from its two electrical connections hence there was no way for the igniter to light the flame for hotwater heater. Thanks to all for the help.
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Old 02-27-2020, 05:09 PM   #9
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Trailer: 13 ft Scamp
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Thanks for posting the repair
One of my biggest complaints are that many folks will post a problem and never take the time to provide info as to what the problem was
Hey we are all here to learn
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Old 02-28-2020, 07:29 AM   #10
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Name: bob
Trailer: Was A-Liner now 13f Scamp
Missouri
Posts: 3,209
seeing your post

I am glad you solved your problem. I have to wonder why when these trailer manufactures are building the trailer that they don't put a marine connection for the electrical cord and simplify every ones problems with these hook ups?

Our Scamp is set up the same way. Have to snake the cord in and out just a problem looking for trouble!

bob

Quote:
Originally Posted by garyhall View Post
The problem was resolved as suggested above. The igniter board casing had been pulled loose by pulling out the 30 amp power cord. In the Casita the power cord is shoved in the side cubby and can get caught and wrap itself around items stored in the same location as the hot water heater. In my case it got hooked on the igniter board case and evidently when I pulled out the 30 amp power cord it pulled the igniter from its two electrical connections hence there was no way for the igniter to light the flame for hotwater heater. Thanks to all for the help.
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Old 02-28-2020, 11:21 AM   #11
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Name: Greg
Trailer: 2008 Casita 17' SD
Washington
Posts: 1,993
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Originally Posted by k0wtz View Post
I am glad you solved your problem. I have to wonder why when these trailer manufactures are building the trailer that they don't put a marine connection for the electrical cord and simplify every ones problems with these hook ups?

Our Scamp is set up the same way. Have to snake the cord in and out just a problem looking for trouble!

bob
I used to fight with that silly shore power hatch like most folks do, but that didn't last long before I got tired of "cord wrestling." It always reminded me of trying to get one of those gag "spring snakes" back in the can. My remedy was to install a larger hatch to replace the one that came with the trailer. It is the same width for R.O.cutout as the original one, just taller. I templated out the R.O. that I would need to install the new one and set about to cutting. While I was at it, I also installed a Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C in the line between the back of the converter and the new Marine twist-lock 30 Amp power connection. I just cut off the cord inside the trailer, leaving enough to comfortably reach the back of the new twist lock receptacle I also added, and installed a new 30 Amp female end on the remaining section of the shore power cord. The larger hatch actually makes the space useable for additional storage that you couldn't reach with the small hatch. It also locks, and, with the new twist lock outlet, gets rid of the ant/mouse highway up your power cord to infest your trailer. The thing I like about the hard-wired EMS unit is that it is permanently mounted inside the trailer behind a lock compartment hatch, and not just hanging on the campground power pedestal, just waiting for someone to make off with it when you're not around.

https://www.amazon.com/JR-Products-Z.../dp/B007HRTSBG

https://www.progressiveindustries.net/ems-hw30c

https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Outdoor-M...sr=1-5-catcorr
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Old 02-28-2020, 12:16 PM   #12
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Name: Jann
Trailer: Casita
Colorado
Posts: 1,307
Quote:
Originally Posted by k0wtz View Post
I am glad you solved your problem. I have to wonder why when these trailer manufactures are building the trailer that they don't put a marine connection for the electrical cord and simplify every ones problems with these hook ups?

Our Scamp is set up the same way. Have to snake the cord in and out just a problem looking for trouble!

bob
I wish they would at least put a divider between the tank and where the cord goes. That would solve this problem. I haven't figured out how to do that easily. Not sure I'd like having a marine connection since the cord could be stolen or unhooked easily from the trailer. I've never had one but so far I'm happy with all our units having the regular 30Amp cord. Now that we know about the problem in the Casita we are very careful to not let the cord go around the tank in any way again.
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Old 02-29-2020, 02:26 PM   #13
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Name: Renae
Trailer: 17' Casita SD
Minnesota
Posts: 11
We had a very similar problem, bought some new parts at rv mechanics suggestion. Still didn't fix , we looked under the box on bench top inside and found a control box plug became disconnected.
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Old 02-29-2020, 04:21 PM   #14
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Trailer: 1979 Layton 22 ft / 2004 Ram-Cummins 2500 2wd
Posts: 180
We found the plastic fingers (Vermin blockers) used with 'Captive cords' soon break off, leaving a perfect highway for mice.

Replaced feed with a 'Marinco' type system, using a piece of 1/8" Aluminum checker-plate to adapt to existing hole. It doesn't matter if cord is connected or not, no gaps. NO MORE MICE!
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Old 02-29-2020, 04:34 PM   #15
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Name: Paul
Trailer: '04 Scamp 19D, TV:Tacoma 3.5L 4door, SB
Colorado
Posts: 1,845
This thread drifted off original topic, but in a useful way, so here goes. That power cord problem drove me nuts and here is how I dealt with it years ago: https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...tml#post492538
The only thing to add is that I changed to galvanized steel straps to hold the fence post sleeve to the frame. Since the Scamp has the axle lift, there is plenty of room for the sleeve under the floor.
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