No transfer of power from electrical hook up to battery and propane power.

[CamperKev]

Hi guys and gals,
Could use a little help here. When I disconnect the outside electrical power source to the camper, the battery does not activate and run lights. The store/ use light is out. Getting ready for the first outing and I would like to be able to not have to depend on being hooked up to a power source.
Any ideas,
Thanks
CamperKev
PS. If you haven’t already figured it out, I am
a rookie when it comes to camping in a RV.

[CarlD]

Is there a battery disconnect switch? If there is, it might be turned off.

[thrifty bill]

1. Is the battery ok? If any doubts, take it to the closest auto parts store and they will test for free.

2. Many brands have a fuse or two in odd places. On my Trillium, there is an in line fuse in the front gaucho bench, nearly impossible to find.

[Radar1]

First thing I would check is the battery voltage at the battery, to confirm that it has power. After that, if it's not getting to the camper, then it's usually a broken connection, like a battery cut off switch, corrosion in outdoor contacts/fuses, broken wire somewhere, or a blown fuse.

[CamperKev]

When I’m plugged into an outside electrical source the monitor shows that the battery is fully charged the battery disconnect works to show that the battery is charged at 14.7. If I disconnect the electrical source the battery disconnect does not work. It has a store and use option. It does not respond win changing the switch to use or store. I’ve checked all the fuses and check to see that the breakers are in the proper position. But this camper is not running on a fully charged battery. Any help would be appreciated

[thrifty bill]

Step 1: Ignore the display. Instead, disconnect the battery itself and take a real reading.

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by thrifty bill

Step 1: Ignore the display. Instead, disconnect the battery itself and take a real reading.

Agreed. And perhaps take the battery to an auto parts store for testing. And remember that the battery will not charge when the switch is in the store position (according to the Bigfoot manual)

If the battery is not showing good voltage (> 12.5) when disconnected but the voltage at the battery when it IS connected and on shore power is over 13.3 or more, then the battery is suspect. Either replace it or have it tested at the auto parts store. BTW, how old is the battery? What type? if unsealed flooded then is the electrolyte level OK?

Now I can't be sure but from the manual it looks like the use / store battery disconnect switch is a relay, and that means it needs power to activate the relay. So I am pretty sure that a totally dead battery, or a blown fuse that disconnects the battery, will not activate the relay. So another test you can do is to put a known good battery of the same voltage in the camper. Even your car's battery. And see if things work OK then. If so then you for sure need a new camper battery. A few minutes in the camper wont hurt the car battery at all.

[CamperKev]

Thanks again for all your help. Once again you gave me a lot of valuable information. I am learning that the battery disconnect readings are different when it is plugged in to an outside electrical source. The battery was as dead as a door nail. So I went to the store bought a new upgrade RV battery and all systems are go everything works. Tomorrow we’re launching the 2004 Bigfoot 2500 series 21FB on its first outing under new command. The funny thing is my daughter and son-in-law are the pilots. I am not even tagging along.
Thanks again for all your help. A plan to be more active on the forum and hope to meet you all somewhere down the road someday.
CamperKev

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by CamperKev

... The battery was as dead as a door nail. So I went to the store bought a new upgrade RV battery and all systems are go everything works....

N I C E !

I often suggest the 12 volt side of life article as a starting point for learning about RV electrical systems. It is good information but a little out of date. However, for most RV batteries, the information about maintenance is very important and will help you get the most out of your new battery and to have power when you are in the middle of nowhere and off grid.

[CharlesinGA]

Originally Posted by CamperKev

Thanks again for all your help. Once again you gave me a lot of valuable information. I am learning that the battery disconnect readings are different when it is plugged in to an outside electrical source. The battery was as dead as a door nail. So I went to the store bought a new upgrade RV battery and all systems are go everything works. Tomorrow we’re launching the 2004 Bigfoot 2500 series 21FB on its first outing under new command. The funny thing is my daughter and son-in-law are the pilots. I am not even tagging along.
Thanks again for all your help. A plan to be more active on the forum and hope to meet you all somewhere down the road someday.
CamperKev

Is this trailer NEW TO YOU or is it one you have been using for a while?

I gotta ask, has this trailer had the recall done on it to add substantial weight to the tongue (500 lbs)? Front beds tend to be very tail heavy and need to be loaded as much forward as possible. (RB models are not much better) The recall covers 2003 to 2007 Bigfoot 25B21FB models. It requires the addition of 500 lbs of weight to the tongue of the trailer to provide enough tongue weight for proper towing.

February 16, 2007 NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 07V060000
HITCH TONGUE LOAD INSUFFICIENT
THIS MAY OCCUR WITHOUT WARNING AND COULD LEAD TO THE LOSS OF CONTROL OF THE TOW VEHICLE/TRAILER COMBINATION, INCREASING THE RISK OF A CRASH.

NHTSA Campaign Number: 07V060000

Manufacturer BIGFOOT INDUSTRIES, INC.

Components TRAILER HITCHES

Potential Number of Units Affected 80

Summary

ON CERTAIN TRAVEL TRAILERS, THE HITCH TONGUE LOAD MAY BE INSUFFICIENT. WHEN THE TRAILER IS TOWED IN A DRY CONDITION, I.E., NO WATER, LIQUID PROPANE GAS, BATTERY, OR CARGO, IN AN EMPTY STATE, THE TRAILER MAY BEGIN TO SWAY.

Remedy

DEALERS WILL INSTALL A HEAVIER STRUCTURAL SECTION IN THE COUPLER AREA AND AN ADD-ON KIT TO SUPPLEMENT THE TONGUE LOAD. THE RECALL BEGAN ON FEBRUARY 9, 2007. OWNERS MAY CONTACT BIG FOOT AT 1-250-546-2155.

Notes

BIGFOOT INDUSTRIES IS OUT OF BUSINESS. CUSTOMERS MAY ALSO CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION'S VEHICLE SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), OR GO TO http://WWW.SAFERCAR.GOV.

Vehicle
MAKE MODEL YEAR

BIGFOOT B-21 FB 2003-2007

Note: Bigfoot Industries went bankrupt in the 2007/2008 time period and restarted as BigfootRV, hence the comment in the recall about Bigfoot being out of business.

Instructions to remedy the problem, Bigfoot Industries PDF document

The illustration on page 6 of the PDF will show you where the weights are added, which will help you determine if the recall was accomplished on this trailer, by performing a visual inspection of the trailer.

Link to US NHTSA Bigfoot recall You will have to click on or expand some items to find everything.

Please be certain to instruct anyone who will be driving that they need to understand the proper response to trailer sway, DO NOT apply the brake pedal, but you DO need to manually apply the trailer brakes alone, without the tow vehicle brakes. This will tend to slow the train down and straighten things up.

Shameless plug here: If you have not, I highly encourage you to join the Bigfoot Owners Club International (BOCI), which is a paid membership ($30? a year) and gives you access to the BOCI discussion forum.

https://bigfootowners.com/membership/

Charles

[Rockytop]

Make sure your pilots know what devices run on the 12v system and which run on 110 shore power. They also need to know never to run the refrigerator on 12v unless you are towing and your battery can be charged from the alternator of your tow vehicle. Finally, make sure you have a battery monitor and know what the readings mean. If you over-discharge the battery, it can be permanently damaged and not hold a charge anymore.

[Rockytop]

No need to correct me because I know true shore power comes from a 30 or 50 amp connection, but I said 110v because it powers 110-v devices, which you can also run from a 110 connection via adapter if you don’t exceed the amps.

[jwcolby123]

Rocky, I used lead acid for 30 years for RV but if you can make the leap, the LiFePo4 (Lithium Iron Phosphate) batteries are a leap upwards in storage and battery life.

My Lead Acid battery was dead and I spent $500 on an AmpereTime 100ah battery. Yes it's a lot more money but:

1) It has more power than TWO of the lead acid batteries I pulled out
1a) It weighs 30 lbs.
2) It can be stored partially charged for long periods with NO damage to the battery.
3) It does not need to be charged all the way up every discharge cycle. No damage to the battery
4) I can get a real 100 amp hours out of it. No damage to the battery.
5) It can provide a real 100 amps instantaneous out of it for using a high powered inverter.
6) They are drop-in replacements for lead acid. I am not even replacing my battery charger.

LiFePo batteries are beasts and for me, was well worth the investment as I intend to heavily use my RV in the coming years. Battle Born are the goto batteries but they just cost too much for me. The Chins and AmpereTime are the same battery and are roughly half the cost of Battle Born.

[Rockytop]

Originally Posted by jwcolby123

Rocky, I used lead acid for 30 years for RV but if you can make the leap, the LiFePo4 (Lithium Iron Phosphate) batteries are a leap upwards in storage and battery life.

My Lead Acid battery was dead and I spent $500 on an AmpereTime 100ah battery. Yes it's a lot more money but:

1) It has more power than TWO of the lead acid batteries I pulled out
1a) It weighs 30 lbs.
2) It can be stored partially charged for long periods with NO damage to the battery.
3) It does not need to be charged all the way up every discharge cycle. No damage to the battery
4) I can get a real 100 amp hours out of it. No damage to the battery.
5) It can provide a real 100 amps instantaneous out of it for using a high powered inverter.
6) They are drop-in replacements for lead acid. I am not even replacing my battery charger.

LiFePo batteries are beasts and for me, was well worth the investment as I intend to heavily use my RV in the coming years. Battle Born are the goto batteries but they just cost too much for me. The Chins and AmpereTime are the same battery and are roughly half the cost of Battle Born.

I had considered doing this, but I was told that I would need a different converter if I switched to lithium. If that’s true, then when my converter dies and needs replacing, I’ll upgrade and get lithium then. But, if my converter will actually handle lithium now, I’d be very interested in switching. Can you give me exact brand and item info, as well as where to purchase. Thanks for the info.

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by Rockytop

... But, if my converter will actually handle lithium now, I’d be very interested in switching. ....

As I understand it, you will likely give up a little of the benefit of the LiFePO4 battery (such as not quite 100% charging and slower charging) then you would get with a converter or charger designed specifically for LiFePO4.

See the Charging and Discharging tab in this FAQ (and the video it contains):
https://battlebornbatteries.com/faq/

[Borden]

Originally Posted by Rockytop

No need to correct me because I know true shore power comes from a 30 or 50 amp connection, but I said 110v because it powers 110-v devices, which you can also run from a 110 connection via adapter if you don’t exceed the amps.

Ours is older; 110v 15 amp shore hookup and converts 110v to 12v for most items or 12v direct from battery. Requires 12v settings set to work from battery, for furnace to work or fridge inside starter.

Fridge can be switched to propane in front, lit in back without 12v by opening pilot access holding gas flow valve till sensor heats up close access and cover and used if battery dead.

Have used electric heater and stove top in emergency to heat trailer when old furnace died and one time when power surge took out a board on the new furnace. Was a chilly night and not fun. We have a surge protector and have spare board now would have been cheaper to purchase a surge protector.

---We have a 110v breaker to turnoff first above the converter, then a 110v to battery switch on power converter front.

Converter has two push button breakers on top that can be tripped if shore power is unstable, or power from a generator.

[Borden]

Originally Posted by Rockytop

I had considered doing this, but I was told that I would need a different converter if I switched to lithium. If that’s true, then when my converter dies and needs replacing, I’ll upgrade and get lithium then. But, if my converter will actually handle lithium now, I’d be very interested in switching. Can you give me exact brand and item info, as well as where to purchase. Thanks for the info.

We also upgraded to the better battery solution worth the money. Our onboard converter has charger option but will not charge it for some reason so we have a small battery mender for it. Worth the $700 lasts so long, it can get cold here working furnace is a necessity.

They say it is warrantied to charge from dead repeatedly something would not want to try with a regular deep cycle battery.

[THene1713]

Originally Posted by CamperKev

Hi guys and gals,
Could use a little help here. When I disconnect the outside electrical power source to the camper, the battery does not activate and run lights. The store/ use light is out. Getting ready for the first outing and I would like to be able to not have to depend on being hooked up to a power source.
Any ideas,
Thanks
CamperKev
PS. If you haven’t already figured it out, I am
a rookie when it comes to camping in a RV.

THE STORE/USE light not working reflects that either BATTERY SWITCH NOT working, or the Battery is defective/ disconnected?

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by THene1713

THE STORE/USE light not working reflects that either BATTERY SWITCH NOT working, or the Battery is defective/ disconnected?

If you review all the OPs comments you will see that his battery was bad. He got a new battery and all is well.

[Borden]

Originally Posted by gordon2

If you review all the OPs comments you will see that his battery was bad. He got a new battery and all is well.

Great you pointed this out lol