OT: stuck bolt/nut combo

[Bobbie Mayer]

This bolt is stuck because I can't get hold of the nut to stop it from turning, and the plastic it is recessed into to stop it from turning is stripped. Any ideas? There really isn't room to get a hacksaw in. I can turn the bolt but the nut turns, too. Tried WD40.

[Pamela S.]

What about drilling it out from the bolt side?

[Bobbie Mayer]

That might be do-able except it is a swivel wheel and I don't have a vice (and would be afraid of breaking the plastic if I did), so no really good way to hold it while I try to drill, and it is a pretty thick bolt. So what I should say is, someone might be able to do that but I don't think I can.

[Donna D.]

Chisel and hammer to remove the plastic part? If it's stripped you'll probably replace it anyway??

What part is this from?

[Bobbie Mayer]

It's not stripped, just stuck. And I can't replace the part, or at least I don't know how, its from this.


I'm trying to put in the original sized wheel which is a bit bigger than the pink ones shown. The other wheel was fine. I think I might be able to get the swivel wheel off if I have the wheel out as there is a screw in the base of it- but I can't take the chance of breaking it and then not being able to replace it. I'll have to try with the one that does come loose and see if that's how to remove it- if so I might find a different one to work.

(Not so OT... it has fiberglass parts- the sides- and is a recreational vehicle.. but not molded fiberglass.)

[FRANK MOLIS]

That might be do-able except it is a swivel wheel and I don't have a vice (and would be afraid of breaking the plastic if I did), so no really good way to hold it while I try to drill, and it is a pretty thick bolt. So what I should say is, someone might be able to do that but I don't think I can.

Just a thought, you do not have to drill out the entire bolt, just the head of the bolt, then push the rest of it through. Do you have a Dremel or Dremel like tool? A Dremel with a grinding bit should have no problem grinding off the head.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=44141

[Bud Kennedy]

Drilling and/or grinding will maybe make the bolt hot enough to melt the plastic. Also once the drill catches on the metal bolt, the bolt will probably begin to spin in the hole.

The dremel has an abrasive cut off disc that would probably cut the nut in two. Keeping the plastic cool when doing so is imperative ( use water ). Of course this will also split the end of the bolt, but that can probably be replaced. Also this will leave a slit in the plastic but will probably not be deep enough to matter.

In any case, good luck.

[Bobbie Mayer]

The head is recessed, too, so cutting it off isn't possible and I think drilling it out would just cause the nut to spin.

Slicing through everything is a possibility, though I'm afraid of the plastic housing breaking. Maybe I can tape it to try to prevent that. It appears to be heavy molded plastic but is only about 1/4-3/8 inch thick. I took the other wheel off and the swivel housing appears to be riveted on so removing it isn't trivial, it would involve a bunch of stuff.

[Liz&Kev]

You should be able to drill the head of the screw off and push the bolt though (as suggested)

Otherwise, looking at the nut, it looks like you have some room to score the plastic around the nut, and possibly get a pair of needle nose pliers in to put some traction on the nut while you turn the screw.

[Bobbie Mayer]

This is similar to many trailer issues in that I don't want to do anything that will leave the wheels not working if it goes wrong- they work now, just not as well as I'd like. If I get into something I can't fix, then they won't work at all. I've thought of trying a Dremel cutoff wheel on the bolt from the inside (inside the housing) but that has that issue- if I get partway through and can't cut through, what happens?

The bolt is probably stainless steel. I don't know how that affects hardness.

[Bobbie Mayer]

The needle nose pliers aren't quite what I need... what I need are "chisel-nosed" pliers.. something with a fine, square end! I can get a small screwdriver in one side but it won't hold so some kind of pliers might help. I tried filing down the plastic to get a grip on the nut with pliers but its pretty hard and again, I'm afraid of wrecking the housing.

[Joe Z]

The needle nose pliers aren't quite what I need... what I need are "chisel-nosed" pliers.. something with a fine, square end! I can get a small screwdriver in one side but it won't hold so some kind of pliers might help. I tried filing down the plastic to get a grip on the nut with pliers but its pretty hard and again, I'm afraid of wrecking the housing.

Bobbie:
Tile Nippers (the kind to nip ceramic tile to shape etc) looks like it may work for you and can be purchased in any of the home depot's etc or you can dremel a groove into one side of the nut and then hold it still with a flat head screw driver while you work the other philips head side loose.... just a few backyard idea's.
Hope you get it!
Joe

[james kent]

Can't you take the whole wheel assembly and bracket off and replace it? Looks like there should be a chair swivel substitute.

[Alf S.]

Hi: Bobby Mayer... Is there enough room around the nut end of the bolt to insert some popsicle sticks around the hex nut to prevent it from spinning in the hole???
Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie p.s. I hate stuff that's done...not to be undone!!!

[Roy in TO]

Good idea Alf,
Makes me think of using 2 thin flat screwdrivers vice gripped onto a similar sized nut so the blades stick out a bit and tapping it into place between the plastic and nut.

[Bobbie Mayer]

Can't you take the whole wheel assembly and bracket off and replace it? Looks like there should be a chair swivel substitute.

I haven't figured out how to do that. The swivel part is rivited or something into an aluminum block. There doesn't seem to be an obvious way to remove it.

My latest idea is to superglue the nut into position in the plastic and then try turning the bolt. If that doesn't work drilling or cutting a notch in the nut and holding it in place might be the next thing to try. Or Roy's idea sounds good.

[Mike Price]

If you can find information about the manufacturer somewhere on the unit, and perhaps a model number, you might try to get a replacement directly from the manufacturer. The prosthetic appears to be a modern device, so probably still being manufactured. If so, I would get two new replacements, just in case.

Nice Pembroke!

Mike

[Mike Price]

After a closer look at the photograph, I would suggest yoiu take a dremel tool with a VERY small grinder and grind out the remaining plastic that was stripped, and then widen the groove all around the recessed nut. Keep grinding the groove wider ( but NOT deeper) until you can fit a thin-walled socket over the nut.

You probably should first remove the other caster wheel and disassemble it to make sure how thick the plastic is, so you know how deep you can safely grind the groove on the damaged one without destroying the broken unit.

If that works, I would further suggest you do the same grind job on the other one, so you never have to rely upon a 1/16 of an inch of cheap plastic again to hold the nut while you unscrew the screw (bolt).

Good luck,

Mike

[james kent]

If it is stripped. Can you get some gorilla glue or resin down around it to tighten it up? How about sone instant glue and let it seep in and leave it to set for a bit?

[Bobbie Mayer]

If it is stripped. Can you get some gorilla glue or resin down around it to tighten it up? How about sone instant glue and let it seep in and leave it to set for a bit?

That's what I have tried but I haven't put it to the test yet.