Paint for exterior of a Boler - Fiberglass RV
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Old 06-10-2017, 08:32 PM   #1
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Name: Adam
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Paint for exterior of a Boler

I am looking to reprint the exterior of my 17' boler. Several paint shops have recommended different types of paint. What is the best type of paint to apply? Ideally I'd like to use a foam roller/brush to apply the paint.

Thanks for the help!
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Old 06-10-2017, 10:04 PM   #2
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Lots of folks have had good results doing a 'roll and tip' with Interlux Marine Paint or similar. Marine paints are good for this purpose because they're designed for fiberglass, and a roll and tip application results in a pretty smooth surface if done right.
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Old 06-10-2017, 10:42 PM   #3
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There has also been recent discussion about Rustoleum Topside. Looks like good stuff. It might be better than Interlux for our trailers because of price, availability and ease of use.
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Old 06-11-2017, 06:52 AM   #4
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Exterior Boler paint

Interlux Brightside, all the way!!!
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Old 06-11-2017, 06:58 AM   #5
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If you go the the forums listed on the home page, there is one called "Owners Helping Owners" Close to the top is a thread on Rustoleum Topside with some good tips from members.
You can also do a search at the top of the page, choosing the Google option and you will get lots of posts.
I am using Topside for my trailer starting with the primer which I found went on well with a dense foam roller. We are now in for a week of rain so I cannot get to the paint for a while.
I could not find this brand anywhere in my area, so I ordered the paint and primer from Amazon.ca. Via UPS, it took several weeks to arrive, having visited about 4 cities in the US and several in Canada before making its way to me but shipping was free. Three of the cans were slightly dented but the packing was done well so it was not serious.
I am sure others will chime in with advice. Hope your painting goes well.
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Old 06-11-2017, 11:31 AM   #6
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Yup, here's another chime.


1A--first, first, first: all repair work should be completely finished first! Should be baby-bottom smooth and primed over fiberglass or bondo hair or whatever filler you've used. THEN primer the whole thing (two coats or more over repairs).


1. It must be enamel paint.
2. It must not be house paint.
3. It must be put over a clean, carefully sanded, and wiped back surface. No fingerprints or oil anywhere. You can use acetone to wipe it before painting. Let the acetone dry completely.
4. It must be a color you will enjoy for a long time--this isn't a throw-away task, this painting of your egg!
5. Your finish paint must go on over proper primer. I, personally, suggest either marine, auto, or "Kilz" type primers (enamel). You get to choose. Will they all work? Yes.
6. You can find good paint nearby--or order it. You could order some RUBBER paint like Durabak, comes in many great colors, and rocks will literally bounce off. It comes in smooth or textured (for better walking on wet decks). There are some drawbacks to Durabak--short application window, for one thing.
WE used Rustoleum Marine Enamel and primer--it came out great.
7. You don't have to "tip" (that is cross-brush with a semi-dry brush--the purpose of "tipping" is to make sure all fine bubbles are popped and don't dry as bubbles in the finished job. If you use a hot dog foam roller (covered tip) and roll for all you're worth, like Paul, you, too, can get all the bubbles popped anyway. Paul simply couldn't get decent results with a brush--kept leaving brush marks no matter how he tried. He admits it's his own technique that may have been at fault, but he got a GOOD job with just the roller and the willingness to roll and roll until it began to self-level, which it did.
8. You can pay more for better paint...or less. You can find decent paint locally, or further away. These are all your choices. People have had good results with all kinds of paints--following the above guidelines.
9. Sand lightly between coats, once the paint is totally dry, and re-wipe, possibly with a tack-cloth type thing--cheesecloth or something clean and "catchy."
10. Use enough coats.
11. Don't skimp--roll each coat thinly and use as many coats as it takes to make the entire trailer look good--and the same all over. Most good paints will allow you to "lap" without having it look bad...and to patch repairs later if you need to without too much horror. Think touch-up paint for cars. You CAN see the repairs, but only very close-up if you do them carefully.
12. The product you use is your choice. That is, you'll have some choices and will take one of them. It's easy to make a mess with latex house paint. So don't. Spend the $100 or more bucks to do the job right, and it'll last you for years.


If you want high gloss, you can add "hardener" to some paints, you can use high gloss auto paint, you can wax with six coats of big-box store floor wax called ZEP or other waxes and lots and lots of coats... Or you can decide to enjoy the soft, fiberglassy sheen of a marine paint as is. That's where we ended up.


There are a million ways to do it wrong...and hundreds of ways to do it right. You makes your choices and you pays your money and you does the work...and voila--gotta look better than it did, right?


PS latex house paint and large daisy graphics do make it look very "hippie" or even beatnik!


BEST
Happy painting
Happy trails!
Kai
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Old 06-11-2017, 11:40 AM   #7
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Cool Painted Peanut -- enamel primer & paint

Rustoleum Marine Primer (white enamel) (
Rustoleum Marine Topside (white enamel)
graphics/logos - stock and custom-made from sellers on eBay
-- on top of last coat of paint
sandpaper -- coarser to 1000; very fine
no wax, no wet sanding
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Peanut 8 2016 B.jpg   Peanut 8 2016 D.jpg  

Peanut 8 2016 E.jpg   Peanut 8 2016 F.jpg  

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Old 06-11-2017, 02:33 PM   #8
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I can't compare against anything else, all I can say is we are very happy with the results using Interlux Brightside. We rolled and tipped without any issues and are very pleased with the results. Just wish we had gone a darker grey...
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Old 06-11-2017, 03:57 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Delmitch2 View Post
I can't compare against anything else, all I can say is we are very happy with the results using Interlux Brightside. We rolled and tipped without any issues and are very pleased with the results. Just wish we had gone a darker grey...
Nah, I like the lighter grey. Looks great!
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Old 06-12-2017, 12:02 AM   #10
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My experience

Just finished today so can't comment on the durability but I used interlux brightside and loved it. I primed it with interlux primer and then applied 2 coats, sanding between coats.

I rolled it on with a loaded roller then rerolled with a dry roller. Amazing finish and easy to use.
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Old 06-14-2017, 02:05 PM   #11
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Yes, Brightside comes highly recommended. That trailer is amazing-looking!


Both of 'em!


We do so like the 2-tone...but I'm sure whatever color I chose (besides white) I'd want a new color in a month or so...so we stuck with white.


Gray, light or darker, is a good-looking choice!


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Old 06-14-2017, 02:12 PM   #12
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The Interlux colour we used is called "Seattle Grey", seems like it's meant to be given you are Kai in Seattle!
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Old 06-14-2017, 02:25 PM   #13
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LOL, yes, "Seattle Grey" does sound about right! Best it matches the sky here sometimes!


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Old 06-15-2017, 08:35 AM   #14
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Hi adam P85,
I just had the 79 surfside repainted at a shop. We used a single stage industrial polyurethane product. Worked well for the most part. The prep of the gel coat (if you are painting over gelcoat), is key to a good job. I wet sanded the entire body with 500 grit wet sandpaper, using a spray bottle of soapy water to lubricate the process. In certain places the paint did not adhere properly (resulting in a fish eye finish) but a second sanding and another coat should improve the finish.
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Old 06-15-2017, 12:05 PM   #15
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Prep is key. We started with sanding the original gel coat (which was in very poor shape) with 180 grit, then 220. A coat of Interlux Primer, and sand with 180/220. Another coat of primer and another sanding with 220. First coat of Brightside, sand with 220./320, then a final coat. Would have done a third coat, not because we were unhappy with the look, but really just to potentially increase the durability. Might still do another coat this fall, but right now just want to enjoy some travelling for the Summer!
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Old 06-20-2017, 02:15 PM   #16
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[ Sand lightly between coats, once the paint is totally dry, and re-wipe, possibly with a tack-cloth type thing--cheesecloth or something clean and "catchy."]
Kai, I just did the first coat and just like with the primer, there is an orange peel sort of finish. I know it will sand off but I am wondering about the last coat being like that. Did you sand a bit after that last coat?
Perhaps I am putting too much paint on the roller.
Another poster suggested rolling with a dry roller after the wet one. I like that idea.
Maybe I asked you this already, but how long bid you wait between coats?
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Old 06-20-2017, 02:21 PM   #17
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Kai, I just read the Rustoleum thread and you answered both these questions. Sorry for the redundancy. Just finished the one coat and maybe the fumes are getting to me.
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Old 06-20-2017, 04:14 PM   #18
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So I painted the first coat of grey interlux paint on the bottom half and it turned out great. Then I painted the top half with interlux white using the same technique. For some reason, the white has some texturing to it after it dried.

I assume that all I can do now is lightly sand it down and put on another coat. Maybe this time with a foam brush to avoid the texture feel.

Thoughts?
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Old 06-20-2017, 04:48 PM   #19
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Patricia D, no problem, glad the other thread helped. Hadn't seen your previous Q until just now.


I was afraid maybe the paint you'd chosen was reacting badly with whatever was already on there...but since it is solved, then I give a sigh of relief!


Paul's fixing someone else's RV in the next days and at the end will try to blend white marine enamel with whatever is on the rig--it's huge, a motorhome taller than our house eaves, and the repairs are small...we're hoping it's close enough in color--the RV is shiny, so he's going to try the wet sanding technique with superfine sandpaper when the paint is all on to see if he can get it closer to the original shine...the owner knows it may not be totally a match.


New technique for Paul...live and learn!


Glad to hear your project is working out--I should stop giving advice, I get so nervous if I think it's not going well! I so want to help, not make things worse!


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Old 06-20-2017, 05:29 PM   #20
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Please don't stop "chiming in". But I know how you feel. I always hope that I am not steering someone in the wrong direction.
You have a lot of good tips and suggestions and we are free to choose which to use and which not to, as with all posters.
Without generous contributors like you, I would never have tackled this project.
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