Painting a boler by hand?

[Kitsgal]

Hello All,

Well, my first question was answered in such a helpful and lovely manner that I am boldly going to ask Ridiculous Question #2 before I wear out my welcome here. Our project boler is becoming a labour of love and a labour of $$$$. We have made it structurally sound but it is in bad need of a paint job - just so the RCMP do not pull us over for looking unsafe.

We are tempted to paint it ourselves. Pro quotes to paint it were super expensive. And when I say paint it ourselves, I mean go to Home Depot and get some brushes and rollers and colour our world. We plan on getting a pro job done at some point in the future but we want it to look less like a rolling crack house now. Our options are to leave as is and paint later ......or to do it ourselves now and re-do it later.

Any thoughts or advice?

Kitsgal

[Jared J]

moparts: paint job on a budget!?

A 1962 Ford Falcon Recieve A Budget Paint Job - Hot Rod Magazine

[Kitsgal]

Jared, I am grinning from ear to ear with your info. Thank you. I am excited to give this a try. WhooHoo! :-)

[Jared J]

No problem. I haven't done it personally, but I know people that have been quite happy with it. For a camper, I would certainly think it would be a paint job you wouldn't have to redo later.

This is the route I'll probably take when I get around to it in a few years. I just can't justify thousands for the paint job on a camper.

For even more info, google "$50 paint job" or $50 rustoleum paint job"

[Thinh]

...To those who want to paint F.G with rollers: Make sure you do a really good body work, fill up all tiny holes and before painting, give it a nicely primer coat. When applying final paint, more than ONE COAT WILL BE NEEDED. Take your times and the outcome won't be far from a professional paint job in the paint booth. I saw with my eyes the job done by my Buddy with his FG truck top. Beautiful. Cheer!

[Donna D.]

There's a number of people here that have rolled on Interlux Brightside paint on all molded towables. Here's one... impressive pics: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ter-54766.html

[andrew78]

great question Kitsgal, i was thinking the same things.

I'm always amaze the info that this forum provides

thanks

[andrew78]

here is another link, even lists the supplies

My "rustoleum $50 roll-on paint job"

[Bob Miller]

IMHO: Interlux Briteside is the ONLY way to go... We used it on our 1973 Hunter and it came out great, most lookers see it as looking like it's new.

Yes, some of the $50 jobs will come out acceptable, but sooo many more will always look like a $50 paint job. BTW: Most of the Rust-Oleum jobs shown are new, what will it look like after 1-2 years of sun exposure?

Read up on "Roll and Tip" application technique, do 4 times as much prep as you think you need to do, get the correct undercoat, and go for it with the Interlux stuff. Out of pocket for paint and materials will be about $200, but it will still look like a $1000 paint job 5 years from now.

Interlux Brightside is available at better boating supply stores.

[FTTRV]

I painted a Compact Jr. with Bright side marine paint. Color was off white. I applied it with a foam roller and used a tipping brush to smooth out the roller marks. It looked like it was sprayed. It needs to be done inside where it is warm. I put 3 coats on and sanded in between with 220 paper. I made sure all my body work was near perfect before painting.
Chuck

[CliveAlive]

Maybe just paint the wheels first!

The focal point of any vehicle is the wheels.

If you want to make a very quick upgrade in appearance (so as not to attract the attention of the RCMP), clean, prep and paint the wheels and dress the tires. Maybe add trim rings or hubcaps to your taste.

If you think about it; a "project" car, say a hot rod, a patchwork of body work and primer, but with a good set of wheels, looks OK.

A brand spanking new Cadillac with a donut spare on it looks sort of trashed!

That way you can also use the Boler sooner and have more time to work on the paintjob!

At least, don't forget the wheels if you paint first. Reason; as above.

[andrew78]

Originally Posted by Bob Miller

IMHO: Interlux Briteside is the ONLY way to go... We used it on our 1973 Hunter and it came out great, most lookers see it as looking like it's new.

Yes, some of the $50 jobs will come out acceptable, but sooo many more will always look like a $50 paint job. BTW: Most of the Rust-Oleum jobs shown are new, what will it look like after 1-2 years of sun exposure?

Read up on "Roll and Tip" application technique, do 4 times as much prep as you think you need to do, get the correct undercoat, and go for it with the Interlux stuff. Out of pocket for paint and materials will be about $200, but it will still look like a $1000 paint job 5 years from now.

Interlux Brightside is available at better boating supply stores.

HI BOB,

which interlux paint would you recommend for fiberglass?

Andrew

[Ian G.]

Originally Posted by Bob Miller

IMHO: Interlux Briteside is the ONLY way to go... We used it on our 1973 Hunter and it came out great, most lookers see it as looking like it's new.

Yes, some of the $50 jobs will come out acceptable, but sooo many more will always look like a $50 paint job. BTW: Most of the Rust-Oleum jobs shown are new, what will it look like after 1-2 years of sun exposure?

Read up on "Roll and Tip" application technique, do 4 times as much prep as you think you need to do, get the correct undercoat, and go for it with the Interlux stuff. Out of pocket for paint and materials will be about $200, but it will still look like a $1000 paint job 5 years from now.

Interlux Brightside is available at better boating supply stores.

Took the words right out of my mouth, I 100% agree with you Bob.
There are some excellent article on the internet and You Tube videos on the Roll and Tip technique.
Mine gets done this year.

[carlkeigley]

Originally Posted by CliveAlive

Maybe just paint the wheels first!

The focal point of any vehicle is the wheels.

If you want to make a very quick upgrade in appearance (so as not to attract the attention of the RCMP), clean, prep and paint the wheels and dress the tires. Maybe add trim rings or hubcaps to your taste.

If you think about it; a "project" car, say a hot rod, a patchwork of body work and primer, but with a good set of wheels, looks OK.

A brand spanking new Cadillac with a donut spare on it looks sort of trashed!

That way you can also use the Boler sooner and have more time to work on the paintjob!

At least, don't forget the wheels if you paint first. Reason; as above.

Same goes for a business suit. If you got the bucks, buy an expensive suit. If you don't have the bucks, you spring for a really nice silk tie. And expensive suit with a cheap tie makes the whole combo look bad.

[theresa p]

many, many years ago, in our wild and wonderous youth, we were given his well-used buick skylark by my father-in-law. i cannot remember the year....but suffice it to say, if i'm talking 1980 or so, the darn car had to be at least 1970 or we'd never have had it!

it needed a paint job. we were dirt poor young newlyweds on a strict budget. so....out came the tremclad! (i think it's rust-oleum in the states).

some rollers, nothing fancy...believe me, truly nothing fancy! but we went at 'er.
it actually turned out really pretty good...all things considered. we kept that old car for a couple of years until we could afford something else. and the paint job, even though FAR from perfect, never showed one speck of rust or other signs of wear.
now, i'd certainly do a better prep job than we did....but hey---i know from experience that it'll still turn out looking surprisingly good!

good luck

[Jared J]

Originally Posted by Bob Miller

IMHO: Interlux Briteside is the ONLY way to go... We used it on our 1973 Hunter and it came out great, most lookers see it as looking like it's new.

Yes, some of the $50 jobs will come out acceptable, but sooo many more will always look like a $50 paint job. BTW: Most of the Rust-Oleum jobs shown are new, what will it look like after 1-2 years of sun exposure?

Read up on "Roll and Tip" application technique, do 4 times as much prep as you think you need to do, get the correct undercoat, and go for it with the Interlux stuff. Out of pocket for paint and materials will be about $200, but it will still look like a $1000 paint job 5 years from now.

Interlux Brightside is available at better boating supply stores.

There are many that are going on 6-7 years and still looking good.

Would I do it on an expensive car? No. On an old camper? Absolutely. The marine paint would be better probably, still same idea/method.

[MC1]

About 10 years ago we checked out an Airstream Argosy that was for sale. They were the line of Airstreams that were not natural Aluminum but were painted a creme color. Anyway the guy used a roller to repaint it. It was awful!!

Many years ago I bought a spray gun and a compressor. Within the next few years a pal and myself painted over 50 cars in our driveway. Not perfect but very nice. A spray gun and compressor can be bought for a couple hundred dollars. Automotive paints are pricy but are very durable. You would need to find a place outside a residential area to spray the egg as over spray can drift to areas nearby.

This was the last car I painted in the driveway. Good enough to be featured in a magazine.

[Kitsgal]

OH WOW!!!! I go away from this thread for a day and look at all the info!!!!! Thank you so much. I love this forum. Thank you Everyone. Your time and input is much appreciated. I will post pics when we figure out what we are going to do. :-)

[Andrew Gibbens]

My tip for getting a really good paint finish when brushing by hand is to have really good skill level, or get trained by someone who has. Having worked with a fully-trained coachbuilder (who had previously painted buses, yes buses, by hand/brush), I can testify that a really skilled hand painter can achieve as good a finish as a spray gun - but the rest of us will just stand there slack-jawed and depressed at the skill level involved.

[Thinh]

...Talking about painting, either manually or robotic, there are all kinds of paint materials which will be applied on the wanted subjects. From air-dried, quick process without baking to..water-based (private body shops) or one-shot urethane process(with baking) of manufacturers(for transport trucks' frames), there are TOO MUCH to mention about... Here is my simple trick of those, home make, self act, DIY economically projects into a...nicely paint job which is...ACCEPTABLE AND ADMIRABLE. Using rollers to paint, eventually it will LEAVE THE TRACE OF ROLLING EDGES after every stroke. To minimize that effect, one should realize that he/she should use either...THINNER PAINT(which is proned to be..sagging) or...SLOW DRIED paint. The latter option is often choosen by home painters which would give out better out come in combination of mulitple coats. Just my personal study. Thanks for reading.