Parkliner 2018 (2019) Lifted 4" - feels BOUNCY while towing

[Maria in MD]

Jon in AZ. No clue if it has a TRD package. I have seen Toyota's with the TRD designation on the side of the truck, mine does not, so I'm assuming it doesn't have that package. I bought it with the tow package.

[Ethan]

Great photos, When trailer is level. Take measurement from ground to top of coupler. Then find a receiver with ball that comes to same height from ground when installed in truck receiver. Your truck may sag a inch or two when tailer is hooked up. Thats OK. If I had those tires in your photos,I would be planning on replacements. Don't forget the spare too. If they came with trailer they will be aging out. They were not that good to begin with. With trailer loaded some of that bounce should settle down. good luck

[Maria in MD]

Ethan, so the 1st picture showing it hooked to TV is high, right? This 1st photo was taken as I hooked it up at the welders, and to my untrained and unknowing eye, it looked level after I hooked it up. Looking at the photo now, the tongue looks high.
So, just for me to understand: The coupler should be level/in line with the receiver hitch.
So the 'lift'/welding work appears to be done well?

Yes, original tires. What tire brand? I know to ensure they are specific for trailers/campers but don't know about brands.

Thank you.

[Ethan]

That does look level from that photo. My trailer came with those tires too. Ended up replace both under warranty. Replacement tires held up and we wore them out. Bought Goodyear Endurance trailer tires for replacement. I will not recommend till we put some miles on. They cost and look well made.

[Maria in MD]

Yes, I recall hearing about the Goodyear Endurance but could not come up with the name. I will put this tire information in my Parkliner file folder. Thank you.

As to the coupler/hitch issue. IF, if it is level, do I STILL NEED to do the steps you mentioned in post #22?

[Ethan]

You know, you could try it and see if you like it or not. Those are things I did to make us feel in control and safe.

[Maria in MD]

Ethan, good point. Will do that, after all, nothing ventured, nothing gained . Many thanks.

[thrifty bill]

Step 1: Take to a commercial scale and get real weights: tongue weight and axle weight.

Need real data to see if you have adequate tongue weight. Almost every truck stop has a certified truck scale. Quick task that will eliminate one possible cause.

IMO, anytime you change the set up/geometry on a trailer, or make significant changes, getting it weighed is prudent. Loaded for a trip is the best time to do it.

As far as hitch height, you can buy a myriad of receivers with almost any height up, down, or level you want. To me, your partial picture looks a little nose up (too high). Don't go from 4 inches up to level. That would be a HUGE move.

[Maria in MD]

"As far as hitch height, you can buy a myriad of receivers with almost any height up, down, or level you want. To me, your partial picture looks a little nose up (too high). Don't go from 4 inches up to level. That would be a HUGE move."

Thrifty Bill, the nose looks a little up to me as well. "Don't go from 4 inches up to level. That would be a HUGE move."

What is so very confusing is the hitch/ball/coupler height in relation to the receiver. At this point, I understand to NOT MOVE IT 4" down to level from its current position? (The hitch that is pictured is a 4" drop hitch that was used before it was lifted. I just had it reversed to make it rise the 4" that it was lifted - OR (after lift) should it have been left 'straight/level' at the receiver)?

Since right now it's a 4" rise (above the receiver), please tell me if I should reverse it again, or get a different height rise/drop and what height to get? I understand it's a guess, but better than I could imagine and I would be better prepared to have the tools on hand ::sigh::. What/how (how much of a drop/rise?) would make it less of a HUGE move? I'm getting to a point of desperation here ::double sigh::

I found a truck scale about 20 minutes from where it's stored and will take it on Monday with about 100# or less of my stuff in it BUT will take it again after loading it up for the next camping trip.

Thank you for your patience.

[thrifty bill]

Light just went on. Prior to the lift, were you using the same receiver, but down four inches. And then you lifted the trailer four inches, and flipped the receiver raising it eight inches?

[Mike_L]

Maria, based on pics posted, the lift appears to be doing what it should, increasing the distance between the axle and the chassis. While lifting the trailer will make it slightly "top heavy" a four inch lift should not be a problem as long as the same amount of lift is made at the hitch. Otherwise, the front of the unit will be too low, the rear end will be raised and now the trailer is out of balance.
Trailers are supposed to be towed "level" This means the height of both ends of the trailer, as measured with a tape from the ground should be equal.
The tug should also maintain its "uncoupled" stance as this is how the manufacturer designed the vehicle to operate. Changing this stance likely impairs vehicle stability. The distance from the ground to the bottom of both front and rear bumpers should decrease by the same distance when the trailer is coupled.
Depending on vehicle suspension and tongue weight, this may not be possible without a weight distributing hitch (WDH).
In essence, a WDH makes the chassis of the tug and the trailer a single unit with even weight distribution. Tongue weight is applied to both the front and rear end of the tug so that both ends drop, again measured with a tape, the same distance.
The "bounce" is likely occurring at the hitch. Vertical movement of the trailer is transferred through the tongue to the rear suspension of the tug, potentially overloading it. The tug may (marginally) accommodate the tongue weight when stopped however it can't accommodate the vertical movement of the trailer when in motion.
Without a WDH, the rear axle acts as a fulcrum (seesaw). Tongue weight during transit pushes down on the rear of the tug, across the rear axle, and raises the front of the vehicle, hence the bounce. The front wheels of your tug are responsible for steering and most of your braking. Reducing their loading likely impairs these functions.
I use a heavy tug. A WDH isn't necessary but I always use one and the difference is quite noticeable.
In my humble opinion, you should use a WDH to insure both the tug and trailer maintain a correct stance for towing and the bouncing should disappear. All the best with this!

[Maria in MD]

Originally Posted by thrifty bill

Light just went on. Prior to the lift, were you using the same receiver, but down four inches. And then you lifted the trailer four inches, and flipped the receiver raising it eight inches?

Thrifty Bill, yes exactly that. I hadn't thought that it raised it 8" but danged if that isn't the case! (I just worked it out with drawing that on paper, I'm better at 'seeing' than just visualizing). Ok, so what's my next step?

[Maria in MD]

Mike L, I understand what you say. I was/am basing the anti-sway bar fix on both CURT and etrailer telling me that the Parkliner was too light to need a WDH. Thank you for your input, and will see what kind of WDH might fit ::sigh::. Anything else you can think of is much appreciated, as well as everyone else that has offered their help.

[thrifty bill]

Towed fine. Raised trailer 4 inches, raised ball 8 inches. Now it tows like crap. Hmm. Before you do anything else, buy a flat receiver (no up or down). Very reasonable cost.

I bought this one, $15. I really like this one as the ball is permanently attached, no chance the ball comes loose. If/when the ball wears, I just get another one for another $15. I've been using this one for four years now, lots of miles, including a trip to AK. So its durable!

I would do this before any of the anti-sway or WDH options, which all are a lot more money. You may end up doing one of these later.

If it towed well before, then putting the tongue back to the same height should tow well again!

I keep a small stockpile of receivers: 4 inch lift, 2 inch lift, level. I tow with multiple vehicles so the proper receiver on my F150 is much different than what I would use on my Honda Element. And the proper height for my Trillium is different than my Escape 19. I just have to remember to take the receiver out when not in use, as the receiver locks tend to corrode and can be very difficult to unlock later! To complicate it further, my Trillium uses a 1 7/8 inch ball, while the Escape uses a 2 inch ball. If/when I change out the ball coupler on the Trillium, I will be going with 2 inch for sure!

https://www.harborfreight.com/2-inch...rop-95884.html

[Maria in MD]

Thrifty Bill, sounds like a reasonable price to check it out anyway. I will try this out first since there's a HF quite near where my camper is stored. I'm also researching WDH's as Mike L noted above in case that's the way I need to go, and I'm in the 'better safe than sorry' camp, even if I have to spend more $$ ::sigh:: which is hard to come by on a monthly pension.
As I said before all this is Greek to me. I wish all this was in one of 5 languages I understand (fluent in 3, and about 40% in the other 2) and none of them are any help! But with the translators here, I'm in good hands. Many thanks.
Barring any unforeseen circumstances, I'm heading to a CAT Scale sometime on Monday morning.

[Maria in MD]

(Went to a CAT Scale today but there was a line of trucks, so did not weigh it today. Will do so when I take it out in about 2 weeks for the 1st campout this year).
Wayne, I’ve written your directions on weighing. When you say “Place the trailer on the scale and DISCONNECT FROM THE CAR.”

I understand this to mean just to unhook the coupler from the hitch, leaving the chains connected. Is this correct?
AND –
I understand that the truck IS NOT on the scale at this time? If so,
THEN –
When I reconnect to the hitch, raise the jack where at this point only the trailer axle will be weighed (the truck is still off the scale, is this correct?) Many thanks.

[Maria in MD]

Thrifty Bill. Got the straight hitch, works like a charm. NO BOUNCE! The front of the truck raised a ½ inch, the rear dropped by the same ½ inch. Is this workable? I’ll still install the anti-sway bar and will continue to check out WDH's.
Doesn’t all this add weight, especially a WDH? Weight that means less camping stuff?

Thanks everyone for your help. I’m truly grateful.

[thrifty bill]

1/2 inch squat is negligible. Google measuring squat to make sure you did it right. But 1/2 inch is essentially nothing.

CAT scale I used let me first do an axle weigh. Got weight of front steer axle, rear truck axle, and trailer axle. I then pulled off the scale. Set the trailer down in their parking lot, and then got a weight of front steer axle on truck and rear axle on truck. The loss in weight of the rear axle on the truck was my trailer tongue weight. Trailer tongue weight plus trailer axle weight = total trailer weight.

Tongue weight divided by total trailer weight times 100 = % tongue weight.

[getaway1]

Hi I just viewed your pics of your axle changes .
I noticed the the shop used the original torsion arms and added riser blocks above the axle. This change will alow more movement vertically and horizontally in the rubber lined pivots. The farther you move the end from the pivot the more deflection. A sway bar will help as would adding shocks as well to dampen the " bounce " you mentioned. Most all trailers do not use shocks ,not sure why, but any car without them is a nightmare to control on the road . I don't see a picture of both wheels so I can't tell if the axle is centered under the trailer . If the work was not done right this may be why the wheel is rubbing on the body as well. Checking the tire pressure first is a good idea too.
An old time mechanic always said : " jingles always do the easy things first "
Maybe asking a mechanic you trust to have a look could provide information on what is needed .
Good luck with this issue , Duane