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Old 10-26-2014, 03:53 PM   #21
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Okay now, got back from the in-law thing, took a nap, and got at it. Got the tank out with not much problem, just not simple to do.



When I get it back in, it will be done so it is easy to replace if necessary again. Let's hope not!

Drained the little that was still in it in the swamp out back, filled with water, sloshed it around real good and drained in the swamp. I'll let it dry before starting work on it. Got plenty of time to do it, but want to get it done. You can see it's "L" shaped, about 43" long on the front side, 32" or 33" on the back side, indents about 8", then about 9-1/2" to the right side, and about 21" wide on the left side. About 6-1/2" deep at the right side and about 8-1/2" deep at the left side.

I'd love to get one of those Pipe Piranha things Eddie mentioned, but it's about 10X out of my price range! I'll have to look at these forstner bits, as I'm not familiar with them. I have a shop full of tools of every description, but no doubt will need something I don't have. I have a few ideas about how to do what I need to do, but think Eddie's idea about a rubber coupler is right on.

I'll keep ya all posted as I get at it. Rebuilding a Honda ATV motor right now too, so just busy!

Thanks for all the help folks.

Frank
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Old 10-26-2014, 07:08 PM   #22
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There is a trick to removing the glued plastic pipes without a saw...it involves a propane torch for sweating copper fittings. I saw it on you tube worth a try?
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Old 10-26-2014, 08:12 PM   #23
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Quote:
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There is a trick to removing the glued plastic pipes without a saw...it involves a propane torch for sweating copper fittings. I saw it on you tube worth a try?
Sounds interesting Eric. Got a YouTube link to share?

Thanks!

Frank
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Old 10-26-2014, 08:43 PM   #24
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I'd try using a heat gun.
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Old 10-27-2014, 06:28 AM   #25
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Thanks Daniel, I will give that a try.

Frank

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I'd try using a heat gun.
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Old 10-27-2014, 07:00 PM   #26
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Ill try and find it again. It was a info vid on how to remove a pvc glued pipe so that its not destroyed so it can be reused. basicly the technique was to evenly soften the joint with heat and wiggle it free.
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Old 10-28-2014, 09:41 AM   #27
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Thanks Eric! I hope you can find it again.

Frank
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Old 10-29-2014, 06:11 AM   #28
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I could not find a manufacturers name on the tank, but found a bunch of numbers. I've tried about everything I can think of (with the help of google) to find one of these L shaped flat tanks with no luck. Anybody have any idea where I might find one (other than the folks at ParkLiner who aren't talking to me) if I need it?

Thanks,

Frank
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Old 10-29-2014, 12:07 PM   #29
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Chandler at ParkLiner got back to me. These are custom made tanks, not available off-the-shelf. They take about a month to get once ordered. I asked how much one would cost and have not heard back.

I'm proceeding figuring I will not be able to just buy a new one and simply just attach it.

Frank
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Old 10-29-2014, 12:18 PM   #30
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Can you retrofit with an off the shelf tank. You would probably lose some volume though. You would think if that's how they are building the trailers with a custom made tank that they would have some on hand for future builds. I doubt they purchase one at a time. Probably don't want to give one up.
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Old 10-29-2014, 12:37 PM   #31
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Maybe folks, don't know yet. I was looking for a flat L shaped tank and just couldn't find even one. Really all I need is something that fits the length and width.

I am sure they only get one at a time, as they need them. They don't have any trailers ready to sell, they custom build them one at a time, and cash flow being what it is, I don't doubt they order them as they need them. But really, who knows?

Frank

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Can you retrofit with an off the shelf tank. You would probably lose some volume though. You would think if that's how they are building the trailers with a custom made tank that they would have some on hand for future builds. I doubt they purchase one at a time. Probably don't want to give one up.
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Old 10-29-2014, 01:19 PM   #32
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I think while I have the tank out, good and clean and dry, this is what I can use to fix it: Holding Tank Adhesive 1 lb Black
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Old 10-29-2014, 01:27 PM   #33
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Good find. Looks like it might do the job.
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Old 10-29-2014, 02:57 PM   #34
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That should do it but you still have to cut out the cold joint and reset a new piece. just patching over and hoping to get some in the crack will come back and bite you later. Now that its out how about some good pictures of the bad spot.
Keep at it and you will come out better than what you bought.
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Old 10-29-2014, 03:15 PM   #35
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you still have to cut out the cold joint and reset a new piece.
What do you mean by that Steve? Take it apart and re-set it? It's integral to the tank, not something attached, other than I assume at whatever factory made it. I was thinking to just clean it down to ABS and use this glue to seal completely around the seam.

I'll see if I can get some better pics.

Frank
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Old 10-29-2014, 04:01 PM   #36
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Pics, all around...









My attempt at sealing this seam with a 2 part epoxy failed miserably. I'll be taking my time removing all the white stuff and get down to black ABS so I can then use an ABS glue/filler and seal this baby up. I also have work to do inside the trailer where I cut the two interior fittings. That needs to be done while I'm working on the tank.

Frank
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Old 10-29-2014, 04:40 PM   #37
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Now I see the real issue. I thought it was a cold joint where the inserted pipe wasn't glued properly between the tank and the stack of fittings. It looks to me that it is cracked through the wall of the tank and not between the fittings. Its just cracked next to the fittings at the thinnest area of the tank. When they vacuum form plastic sheets they get stretched thinner in any corners. Add 10 lbs of piping and valves with leverage and this can easily happen.

I think you are going about it the right way with the shaved ABS and solvent to make a mash and form reinforcement. If this was my tank I would clean off the previous repair and wipe the surface with PVC primer available at the hardware store. This removes the releasing agents in the plastic. Now make your mash and fill in and fair the joint. I would let this set up good and solid. Then take some fiberglass cloth and cut it up for some long fibers about an inch long or so and make another batch of ABS mash with this fiber mixed in. Apply this reinforced mash over the repaired joint and spread it over a much wider area to get the load spread out several inches with fiber reinforcement. When you finally get the tank back in and the tank mounted see if you can add a support from the drain valve to the body of the trailer so it isn't bouncing down the road levering against the tank trying to crack it again.

This is my suggestion and I hope your repair how ever you choose to proceed goes well. Its Abs and solvent welds really good and should come out much better than the factory intended. It sucks to be a custom made tank as others down the road are going to have this issue and not using a standard tank really stinks.
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Old 10-29-2014, 04:57 PM   #38
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Yes, I guess I didn't get my point across very well. It is not a joint, other than what is formed in the manufacturing process for the 3" outlet. It's just poor connection. Also, the support for the drain valve portion was not anything other than just a support. It did not pull the outlet set-up against the bottom of the trailer, which is what I believe caused the flex problem initially. So, poorly made product and lack of factory attention to proper support.

I like your idea for fixing it Steve, and will more or less follow along with the plan you have laid out. Thanks!

Frank
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Old 10-30-2014, 04:03 PM   #39
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Here's my problem folks, and I would have never seen it if I had not taken the tank off. It's not only cracked around a (very thin material) seam, the crack extends up into the side of the tank. I only found it cleaning most the epoxy off tonight. You can see the crack in this pic, and see it running up into the tank...



Next step is sanding it till all I have is black to work with. I had to be real careful getting the epoxy off so as not to make a bad situation worse! So I'll pick up some acetone this weekend, and have ordered the ABS glue I need. This baby will be sealed and solid as a rock when I'm done.

Never did hear back from Chandler at ParkLiner about a replacement. Oh well.

Frank
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Old 10-30-2014, 05:27 PM   #40
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Sadly always something....well reinforce it well with the fiberglass cloth like steve suggested and support that area with metal strapping so it wont wiggle around and loosen up. Best of Luck!
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