ParkLiner Wheel Bearings

[Huck]

I found some info that may be helpful.

The castle nut is locked in place by 1 of the 2 tabs of the tang washer. Use a screwdriver and bend it up so that you can unscrew the castle nut. When you reinstall the castle nut, bend the tab back down to lock the nut.

I believe Parkliner has the Dexter EZ-lube system, so here is a video that shows how to lube the bearings.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XT0RKDGgDm8

This axle catalogue might help. I don't know what axle model I have, but it appears it is a Dexter. http://www.dexteraxle.com/docs/defau...y.pdf?sfvrsn=0

These videos appear to match my axle.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rGDb83odXhU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GnH-h3W9XvI

[Huck]

If anyone finds any mistakes, please send me a pm and I will fix.

I finished repacking the bearings on my Parkliner (2014), so here is a step-by-step listing of what I did, as well as part #s. Yours may be different. Grease, grease gun, and packing tool are your choice. This is just what I used.

Outer bearing: L44649 (bought at NAPA)
Inner bearing: L68149 (bought at NAPA)Grease Seal: SKF 17146 (bought at NAPA)
Bearing Packer (not required, can repack by hand): Evercraft 776-9028 (bought at NAPA)
Grease - I used Moly Graph Grease available at NAPA and Harbor Freight in 3 oz tubes. Used for mini grease gun.
3 Oz. Mini Grease Gun with Cartridge - Harbor Freight

Repacking wheel Bearings on Parkliner (2014)

1. Loosen lug nuts
2. Jack up trailer
   1. Put jack under 3" metal frame, not under axle
   2. Put jack stand under metal frame, not axle
3. Remove tire
4. Remove dust cap
   1. Might be able to pry off with screw driver
   2. Might be able to get off with channel pliers (I used channel pliers and lightly tapped with hammer)
5. Remove castle nut (looks like a castle)
   1. On my Parkliner, there is a tang washer holding it in place
   2. Clean castle nut as good as you can.
   3. You will see a tab from the tang washer bent over the castle nut holding it in place
   4. Using a screw driver, pry the tab up as far as you can
   5. Unscrew the castle nut - you may need to keep prying the tab up as you go
6. Remove drum (hub). (Either remove outer bearing first or hold with hand)
7. Clean axle and put a little grease on. (You could do later if you wish)
8. Remove washer and outer bearing
9. Remove grease seal (rear of drum by prying it off)
   1. Put end of punch under the edge of the seal and tap with hammer.
   2. Or put one jaw of the channel pliers under the seal and then pry it off. This worked much better for me. You could probably do the same with a hammer - like pulling a nail.
10. Remove inner bearing
11. Clean out old grease
12. Check the race inside the drum. The race is what holds the bearing inside the drum.
    1. Make sure it is not scratched or pitted. If it is, replace.
13. Clean everything - bearings, washers, nuts (paint thinner, mineral oil, brake cleaner, etc)
14. Inspect bearings - scratched, pitted, discolored, damaged in any way
    1. If damaged, replace
    2. If not damaged, repack with grease. This is where I used the bearing packer tool. Don't mix grease.
15. Put some grease inside drum
16. Install inner bearing (small end of cone first)
17. Install grease fitting
    1. Line it up properly
    2. Place a piece of 2x4 over the fitting and tap with hammer until it is flush with drum
18. Install outer bearing (some people prefer to wait until drum is reinstalled)
19. Put washers on
    1. Tang washer closest to bearing - make sure tabs pointing out
    2. Then flat washer
20. Screw on castle nut
    1. Hand tight plus a little
    2. Back off about 1 castle point
    3. Bend one tab of tang washer down to lock castle nut
    4. Spin wheel - it should spin freely for several turns. If not, adjust.
21. Put wheel on and hand tighten lug nuts
22. Lower trailer, tighten lug nuts, remove jack stand.
23. Use grease gun to fill hub with grease. Make sure you use same type of grease.
    1. Connect grease gun to ez-lube zerk fitting.
    2. Keep pumping until grease starts to come out from behind castle nut. I think it was about 5 oz.
    3. Wipe off all extra grease
24. Reinstall dust cap - tap with hammer
25. Repeat for other wheel

[Huck]

Procedure for using repacking tool

Bearing Repacking Tool

3 pieces
bolt – notice hole just above bottom piece, zerk fitting
top piece – hole goes completely through it
bottom piece – hole is capped at bottom

1. Screw the bolt into the bottom piece, making sure the hole in bolt is at bottom, but not covered
2. Place the bearing over the bolt, small side up
3. Screw the top piece on hand tight so bearing is locked in place.
4. Attach grease gun to zerk fitting
5. Fill until grease comes out, or, if old grease in bearing, until you see new grease coming out.

[Huck]

Some pictures of items in procedure.

Picture - stock picture of tang washer


2nd Picture - Tang washer - notice the tabs sticking out. Pry one up to remove castle nut and then pry back down to lock castle nut in place.

3rd Picture - This is the installed castle nut with the flat washer and tang washer.

4th Picture - This is the dustcover with the rubber cap removed. I would remove the entire dustcover to us the ez-lube grease connector.