Pic of wheel hub

[Gardnpondr]

OK here is that piece I was referring to that sticks out. The rims and all will be replaced. We will also go into those hubs or whatever they're called and pack em etc. Just sharing the extended thing which I am told is a thing to add oil in but we won't be keeping that either. Tires will also be replaced. No telling how old these things are.

[Carol H]

Looks like it may be a Bearing Buddy which if it is I would remove - not meant for RV's more for boat trailers. Or it could be an EZ lube - again I would not use it either..... nothing beats could old routine maintenance where you actually see the state of your bearings and seals.

[frank_a]

Looks like an add-on Bearing Buddy. I hate those things. False security (#1), and usually the reason seals are blown out (#2). Bearing buddy my eye! They are not a good thing. YMMV...

Frank

[Donna D.]

Bearing Buddy, get rid of it ... not the EZ Lube which I have a love. YMMV

[Gardnpondr]

Will do and no telling how long that things been on her so hoping everything is good on the inside. She has FOUR of these!

[frank_a]

It is very rare I can't save a hub. I would have somebody that knows what they're doing remove it, the cotter pin, the axle nut and pop that hub off. Clean it up, inspect the bearings, and get new seals. I never mix greases, which means I will even take good bearings out, clean them well in mineral spirits or acetone or something similar, then repack with a quality grease (I like Lucas Red & Tacky).

If you want to do this yourself, let me know and I can lead you though the steps. It is not rocket science, and with slip on vinyl gloves and plenty of rags it does not have to be a dirty job either.

Frank

[Gardnpondr]

Originally Posted by frank_a

It is very rare I can't save a hub. I would have somebody that knows what they're doing remove it, the cotter pin, the axle nut and pop that hub off. Clean it up, inspect the bearings, and get new seals. I never mix greases, which means I will even take good bearings out, clean them well in mineral spirits or acetone or something similar, then repack with a quality grease (I like Lucas Red & Tacky).

If you want to do this yourself, let me know and I can lead you though the steps. It is not rocket science, and with slip on vinyl gloves and plenty of rags it does not have to be a dirty job either.

Frank

I guess hubby is going to tackle this job. I think he's done this before but not sure. I was looking at some videos the other day of doing it. I'll probably be helping. One I was watching was Decter video. Might have to get back with ya if the hubs don't look good. I'd like to just replace all the seals and bearings etc. because this things been sitting up for a long time. Thank you Frank.

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by Gardnpondr

I guess hubby is going to tackle this job. I think he's done this before but not sure. I was looking at some videos the other day of doing it. I'll probably be helping. One I was watching was Decter video. Might have to get back with ya if the hubs don't look good. I'd like to just replace all the seals and bearings etc. because this things been sitting up for a long time. Thank you Frank.

Replacing the bearings and seals is a good plan as is replacing the brake pads - or if everything is old and rusty and the magnet is on its last legs you may want to get a whole new brake assembly. The hubs may be fine and just needs cleaning up. If they have been sitting for a long time and has rust on it or wear marks you can take it to a shop to have it cleaned up/turned. I took my hubs in and they put it on a special machine to polish them back up - cost me about $40.

[tractors1]

If I'm going to take the thing apart, I'm going to replace the wear items, period. Easier than a 2nd trip to the store after inspection..........

Charlie Y

[Perry J]

It's much less expensive to buy complete new brake assemblies if you need any brake parts.
I buy mine from NorthernTool.com.


John

[frank_a]

I also should mention that often you can get complete bearing, seal, cotter pin and grease cap kits for most all trailer axles. Once you get rid of those bearing buddies, you will need grease caps. I generally get my kits at NAPA. I have no idea what bearings you have, but this is what their kits look like: http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...G22_0297717169

I think kits are available at many retailers, including the web, like northern tool and etrailer. I only thought of this because you will need grease caps eventually!

Best of luck to you!

Frank

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by Perry J

It's much less expensive to buy complete new brake assemblies if you need any brake parts.
I buy mine from NorthernTool.com.


John

I agree John, rather than just replace the old pads on my brakes I opted to replace the whole brake assembly. The assembly on my then 16 year old trailer was pretty rusty and the cost of a whole new assembly was not that much more and worth every penny in the piece of mind it gave to me knowing that the brakes where in fact in as good condition as they could be. Was worried that based on the rust level I saw on the original assembly something could fall apart at any time.

[redbarron55]

My new Flexiride axle has ZE-Lube standard and what is good or bad about them?
Of course if you over grease them it will blow out the seal and contaminate the brake drum.
Anyone with real life experience?

[Gardnpondr]

Wow thank you guys!!!! I just love this place! You guys are so nice and love how you help. One day maybe I can do the same when I learn some stuff about the camper. Oh yeah we will be replacing everything that needs replacing. That could get very dangerous and I'm not a dare devil in the least. I want it fixed and I want it fixed right. I noticed someone on another thread was talking about checking the lug nuts when you let someone else do it, oh yeah check em for sure because hubby didn't check them on the truck one time when he took it in for something. It was on the front and I was driving and thank goodness I was driving slow IN town when I kept feeling something weird in the steering wheel. Got out to check the tires and the lug nuts were almost all the way off the thing! Thank goodness there was a tire place across from where I was so I eased over there and let them tighten them for me. They didn't even charge me.

OK I have a couple questions though, this is a double axle 1985 Bigfoot so that kit someone posted the link for at NAPA is the item # I would get? Or are they all different? Just wanted to make sure and get the right kit when we get started on this project. Or do we just take the guts so to speak out of the wheel and take them to NAPA so they can see what we need?

Also where would I find the grease caps? I guess NAPA would have those as well?

Someone gave us what we wanted on an old ragged out camper and it has white spoke rims so hubby is going to get those and the sway bar and some other things. So he's going to swap out the rims with these white ones.

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by Gardnpondr

Or do we just take the guts so to speak out of the wheel and take them to NAPA so they can see what we need?

.

Don't think you can go wrong taking the old parts with you to have them replaced saves on anyone second guessing what may or may not have been on the trailer originally vs what someone may have put on it since.

[Gardnpondr]

Originally Posted by Carol H

Don't think you can go wrong taking the old parts with you to have them replaced saves on anyone second guessing what may or may not have been on the trailer originally vs what someone may have put on it since.

Thanx!!!

[frank_a]

Originally Posted by Gardnpondr

OK I have a couple questions though, this is a double axle 1985 Bigfoot so that kit someone posted the link for at NAPA is the item # I would get? Or are they all different? Just wanted to make sure and get the right kit when we get started on this project. Or do we just take the guts so to speak out of the wheel and take them to NAPA so they can see what we need?

Also where would I find the grease caps? I guess NAPA would have those as well?

I was the one that posted that NAPA kit. I have no clue if it's the right one for your trailer, but it is common, as I have bought it quite often to do small trailers. Those kits are everything you need for one axle, cups, cones (those are the bearing parts), cotter pins, and grease caps. Even comes with grease (hidden in one of the caps). All that stuff comes in one blister pack.

By the way, I don't use the grease that comes in those kits. I use Lucas Red & Tacky. Great stuff. You never want to mix greases!

If you can, take one hub off, remove the outer bearing (that's the easy one), flip the hub, remove the seal as carefully as you can, get the rear bearing out, run those three parts over to NAPA and ask if they have a kit for your axle. It won't take them long, or it shouldn't. If they do have a kit, you need two of them.

Feel free to ask any questions. This is really an easy job. Just take your time.

Also, I agree with folks here who suggest you just buy new brake assemblies. Usually you can easily figure out what you need just by measuring the width of the shoes, and the diameter of the drum. Usually I get all new stuff, including new drums when I have an old trailer with brakes. I want good brakes!

Best of luck to ya!

Frank

[mary and bob]

Does NAPA have kits for the Dexter axles that use a lock tab instead of a cotter pin

[frank_a]

Originally Posted by mary and bob

Does NAPA have kits for the Dexter axles that use a lock tab instead of a cotter pin

Boy, that is a good question folks. I have those on my Parkliner, and had never seen anything like that before. I got new ones somewhere. NAPA is a good bet, but I can't remember for sure. If not there, are you familiar with RH Scales in Albany? They're like an etrailer local store/warehouse. I have bought lots of stuff there over the years just because I can go there and they generally have what I'm looking for: TRAILER, TOWING & TRUCK EQUIPMENT | RH Scales

They just moved from their old Central Avenue location to 20 Kairnes St # 1 in Albany. Their # is 453-5422.

Good luck!

Frank

[Bob Miller]

Not mentioned is that when you replace damaged/worn bearings that you also need to replace the races, (the parts that stay in the hub). While the old ones can be knocked with a drift punch, the new ones should be pressed (not driven) into place. If you don't have a press, most real auto supply stores do, and will usually press them in for a few $$ Ditto for the new grease seals.