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Old 04-13-2013, 11:03 AM   #41
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Name: Sharon
Trailer: Chez Nous - a 2011 Scamp 16'
Texas
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LOL. Larry is cool though and would cut me some slack (I think) if he's the type to charge extra for having a vested observer looking over his shoulder.
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Old 04-13-2013, 11:41 AM   #42
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That reminds me Carol -- after watching the video on heat seal connectors (which seems a great way to make waterproof connections), I looked under the benches, cabinets, and so on at all the wiring in my Scamp. Is it just me, or are some areas a tangled mess with excess all over the place? I mean, I'm kind of a neat freak (maybe anal is a better description if you could see how I got all my cable cords here at home wrapped), and if I knew what I was doing I'd certainly go in and clean some of that mess up!!! I wouldn't want to fool with the excess quite yet, not knowing if some of it might come in handy for future electrical needs. But sheesh, talk about a bad hair day, using wires in place of hair.

Sharon
It's not just you. It made me twitch when I saw the wiring. I've been cutting out all of the scotch-locks, and replacing them with proper crimps and marine adhesive heatshrink. I have a few more to go.
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Old 04-13-2013, 11:53 AM   #43
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I've never met Larry Gamble but certainly read enough at the CasitaForum to know he welcomes folks to watch... if fact, a customer can help too. So there you go Sharon, a first hand education. Can't beat that... and take lots of notes!
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Old 04-13-2013, 12:01 PM   #44
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That reminds me Carol -- after watching the video on heat seal connectors (which seems a great way to make waterproof connections), I looked under the benches, cabinets, and so on at all the wiring in my Scamp.

Sharon
Sharon, as Jared suggested its not just you! But having said that Scamp isnt the only manufacture that things kind of look like that. Biggest problem I had was an on going problem with side markers and tail lights sometimes working sometimes not - problem stopped when I replaced Scamps connections & replaced them with heat shrink connections. Scamp had used screw on caps on the mess at the tail lights.
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Old 04-13-2013, 08:35 PM   #45
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Trailer: Scamp 16'
Colorado
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One important point about knowing how to do something, is then knowing if the work you're paying for is done properly and at a reasonable price. People get taken everyday by repair people who really don't know what they're doing when trying to repair all molded trailers. Just think of those that had a leaking window and the repair was to slather silicone around the outside of the window frame. And it's even worse when the owner paid to have it done. Knowledge is power!
Hi Donna I totally agree that is why I have ask them a thousand and one questions as I researched here! I knew I plugged the plug in right and wanted to know why and what for, thankfully they were honest and said the new guy didn't do it correctly. Too if one did not know my answer then another in the area of expertise would find it. Durango as a whole is pretty much like that, pretty honest! ESP Firestone if you are ever passing through.
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Old 04-16-2013, 04:42 AM   #46
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Scotch-lock connectors should be outlawed. I was taught all 12v connections should be soldered and heat shrinked or taped. 12v wire size is inportant for distance and load in amps (tables can be found on the internet) for both positive and negative. Now it is actually easy to learn, join a hobby group or night class if my mother could learn to reupolster furniture and do carpendry any one can.
Sorry mom.
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Old 04-16-2013, 04:50 AM   #47
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Scotch-lock connectors should be outlawed. I was taught all 12v connections should be soldered and heat shrinked or taped. 12v wire size is inportant for distance and load in amps (tables can be found on the internet) for both positive and negative. Now it is actually easy to learn, join a hobby group or night class if my mother could learn to reupolster furniture and do carpendry any one can.
Sorry mom.
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Old 04-16-2013, 05:26 AM   #48
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Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
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There is a short but interesting article in this month's Hot Rod magazine that addresses the issue of wire sizing. It even mentions the issue of heat in relation to wires in a harness. Of course it's more geared toward wiring a car, but they have lights and accessories same as a camper. I found that over the years of working on big trucks & trailers that it was near impossible, no matter what we did, to keep wiring connections free of water infiltration and corrosion. But our campers aren't on the road every day in all kinds of weather like trucks are, but considering where some of the electrical components were located, I'm convinced the designers thought the trucks only ran in the dry desert all the time. I've seen more than one camper or motor home where the wiring looked like a rats nest with no effort made to make a neat wiring harness, just get a wire from A to B and make a connection. I removed all the original scotch lock connectors in our Uhaul. Neat wiring takes time and thought, and that doesn't work well into production schedules.
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Old 04-16-2013, 08:20 AM   #49
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Soldering Joints ????

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Originally Posted by pauly42 View Post
Scotch-lock connectors should be outlawed. I was taught all 12v connections should be soldered and heat shrinked or taped. 12v wire size is inportant for distance and load in amps (tables can be found on the internet) for both positive and negative. Now it is actually easy to learn, join a hobby group or night class if my mother could learn to reupolster furniture and do carpendry any one can.
Sorry mom.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Soldered and heat shrinked?? I think that's a bit of overkill. There are 10,000 airplanes in the sky with properly crimper connections on about 99% of their wiring terminals and splices, (excluding Cannon type connecors of course).

Novice soldering joints also add in the possibility of a cold solder joint or a high resistance joint.

A ratcheting pressure crimper (About $30) and good quality terminals (NOT from the $.99 store) will result in splices and terminal ends that stay in place.

The only time I heat shrink a connection is when it is exposed to water or weather, such as any that might occur under the chassis.

That said, I see that even big name mfg's, such as Dutchman and others, still use ScotchLoc connectors and wire nuts 12 VDC connections.



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Old 04-16-2013, 08:24 AM   #50
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I use uninsulated crimp terminals and adhesive heat shrink on all connections. I don't solder, though. It can lead to wires breaking in something that moves around. There's a reason wires are crimped in cars.
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Old 04-16-2013, 09:44 AM   #51
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I use uninsulated crimp terminals, solder and heat shrink. If I think there will be alot of flexing, or the wire is large, I use two layers of heat shrink.
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Old 04-16-2013, 10:05 AM   #52
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I use uninsulated crimp terminals, solder and heat shrink. If I think there will be a lot of flexing, or the wire is large, I use two layers of heat shrink.
Me, too. I also will support a wire that is subject to stress or flexing. In my experience, corrosion is usually the culprit when I have a bad connection. Soldering has always worked for me to thwart corrosion.
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Old 04-16-2013, 09:15 PM   #53
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Trailer: Scamp 16'
Colorado
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Speaking of wires..I found out yesterday I have no converter! Just asking are they difficult to install and if not where is the best choice to put it? Thank you in advance! P.S. got the Scamp going 60 mi/hr. on hwy 550 yesterday only using 1.5rpm pn blazer! Also first back in did great only had to pull forward twice with help! Practice and I will be doing great! DreamWeaver is itching to go RVing!
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Old 04-16-2013, 10:04 PM   #54
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You didn't mention if the converter was missing or if one was never installed.

I have installed several Progressive Dynamics 4045 power centers in Scamps and other RV's with excellent sucess. The 4045 includes both an AC and a DC distribution panel/ fuse block, has 45 amps of clean DC available and has a 3 stage charger that can be left connected 24/7. With moderate electrical skills they are about a 2-3 hour install. Less than $200 if you shop the internet. Look for Frank Bear at Vintage Technologies for best prices.



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Old 04-16-2013, 10:29 PM   #55
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You didn't mention if the converter was missing or if one was never installed.

I have installed several Progressive Dynamics 4045 power centers in Scamps and other RV's with excellent sucess. The 4045 includes both an AC and a DC distribution panel/ fuse block, has 45 amps of clean DC available and has a 3 stage charger that can be left connected 24/7. With moderate electrical skills they are about a 2-3 hour install. Less than $200 if you shop the internet. Look for Frank Bear at Vintage Technologies for best prices.
Thanks Bob will do..I couldn't find it had shop look they couldn't find it so it was never installed! Have a friend that has the skills is going to help with the fantastic fan too! I appreciate info..again where is best place to install? Thank you!
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Old 04-16-2013, 10:41 PM   #56
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You didn't mention if the converter was missing or if one was never installed.

I have installed several Progressive Dynamics 4045 power centers in Scamps and other RV's with excellent sucess. The 4045 includes both an AC and a DC distribution panel/ fuse block, has 45 amps of clean DC available and has a 3 stage charger that can be left connected 24/7. With moderate electrical skills they are about a 2-3 hour install. Less than $200 if you shop the internet. Look for Frank Bear at Vintage Technologies for best prices.
I agree on the pd4045, love it. I wish mine only took 2-3 hours to install, though.
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Old 04-16-2013, 10:42 PM   #57
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Please refresh my memory, Anita- what year/model is your Scamp 16?

Francesca
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Old 04-16-2013, 10:45 PM   #58
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Please refresh my memory, Anita- what year/model is your Scamp 16?

Francesca
Hi Francesca, it is '89....took all covers off..looked in all cabinets RV shop said it was never installed that they could tell. Called Scamp they said it would be on driver's side in seat..not there!
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Old 04-16-2013, 10:48 PM   #59
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This is a puzzle...Don't think I've ever heard of a Scamp leaving the factory without a converter.

Don't you have interior 12v lights, a fan-forced furnace, and possibly a water pump? Those would require a converter to work when on shorepower (110v)...unless of course one kept a battery charger on the battery at the same time.

Francesca
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Old 04-16-2013, 10:53 PM   #60
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by chance, did you look under the fridge? Mine was in this hole the water lines are headed into. The white, blue, and black wires went into the old converter.
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