Please help. Sourcing out leaks after rainstorm - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV
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Old 06-10-2012, 10:53 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by CheekyTracy View Post
Heavy downpour and gusting winds throughout the night and this morning.....just checked the status of my putty job .... still leaking .
Don't worry, over time you will track down and fix all the leaks. When there are multiple leaks - and there often are - it can be discouraging. Break it down into bite size chunks and fix one area at a time.
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Old 06-10-2012, 11:27 AM   #22
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Well, one good note .. the weather is providing a natural troubleshooting environment! In between storm systems I have mopped up the latest dribble ... poked an awl into the weep holes (Thank you, Tim) and bolstered the putty along the bottom edge as this is likely the entry point if not the origin as the bottom aluminum edge is wet and small beads of water had formed. I believe, as Tim has stated, it may have been due to clogged weep holes as the awl did find some resistance when I poked it in especially on the leaky window. Fingers crossed for round 2!
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Old 06-10-2012, 12:36 PM   #23
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The window is back in with new wood around frame, screws and butyl tape. We have had rain for the past 12 hours and the unit is dry.
Thanks for the info.
Lynne
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Old 06-13-2012, 05:56 PM   #24
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Unfortunately, I was not so lucky....I waited two days for it to rain again so I could assess whether my fixes have worked and alas, there is still leaking. I have determined it is coming from the bottom of one window and also a small amount from the roof vent...I would cry but that would just add to the moisture!! lol I will need to scrap the caulking away from the roof vent and remove it, butyl tape it and see where I am at. The window I am not sure about as they have been sealed using the butyl tape and then a clear caulking (likely silicone) around the edges. There is only one leaking. I hesitate to pull it apart at this point. I did buy some butyl caulking and think I might try caulking around the interior frame to see what happens first. Soooo disappointing!!
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Old 06-13-2012, 07:45 PM   #25
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I'm not sure how your using the butyl tape so I figure it's worth posting this link, half way down the page are pictures of butyl tape applied to a part and after install with the tape squeezing out, waiting to be trimmed off.
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f56/refurbishing-my-77-scamp-51268-3.html

Butyl tape really only works if it's put between two surfaces that are then tightened together.


Don't think you will get much luck from caulking or trying to seal windows from the inside. Generally it works much better to "shed" water than to try and create a water proof seal which is what you would be attempting from the inside.


I think you are on the right track to remove and re-tape the roof vent, could be that the vent leak is letting some water run down behind the inside covering and when it hits the window frame it has a way out from behind.


Will echo what someone said earlier, wonder why the extra caulk on window if they did not have a leak? You could bucket test just the window on a dry day to be sure removal was required.


Any chance you could post picture(s) of your window?
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Old 06-13-2012, 11:57 PM   #26
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I agree that as you know the vent is leaking it is very possible the water is coming in via that and running down the side towards the window and working its way along the window edge to the bottom..... pull the vent and reinstall with butyl tape only - put the caulking gun down ;-) and see what happens.
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Old 06-14-2012, 05:46 AM   #27
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I agree that as you know the vent is leaking it is very possible the water is coming in via that and running down the side towards the window and working its way along the window edge to the bottom..... pull the vent and reinstall with butyl tape only - put the caulking gun down ;-) and see what happens.
I agree with Carol and pull the vent. I have done this a few times and its worth the little extra effort to do the job right the first time. If the weep holes and after pulling the vent don't stop the window from leaking then you will most likely have to pull the window also. Just make sure you clean everything good before putting it all back together.
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Old 06-14-2012, 01:35 PM   #28
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Thank you, everyone! I am going to climb up on the roof this weekend and pull the vent and tape ... is it a job I can do easily myself?? The other window opposite the roof vent side is also leaking which I didn't notice at first therefore the vent may not be my only source however I will pull it and butyl tape it first ... and I will definitely put the caulking gun down . I have examined the outside of the windows again and they have been installed using butyl tape and appear to be done properly. I will post pics. Thank you so much for all your input. I am truly grateful....a little disheartened but grateful!! I have contacted a couple of RV places and they are booking into July which is too late for me but I hesitate to pull the windows myself unless I have no other option .
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Old 06-14-2012, 02:39 PM   #29
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Well first off its not a good idea to put all your weight onto the roof - its not meant to hold much weight so when your up there try and keep your feet on the ladder and spread your weight out. Depending on the how the vent is constructed/type and if the screen is removable and its size you may be able to reach up from the inside through the vent itself to get the rivets out and replace.

Removing the window isnt as scary as it sound and I would save the money on an RV place. All you really need is two people and the second person is only really needed to make sure the window doesnt drop to the ground when your release the inside frame & to hold the window on the outside when your re install it.

It may look like the person who did the window repair did it correct but without taking it off you really are not going to be able to see how much butyl he used and if it actually sealed it well around the whole window.

Did you run some weed wacker plastic/trimmer line through the window weep hole of the window? If not try it - could simple be the weep holes are clogged.
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Old 06-14-2012, 02:57 PM   #30
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Tracy, When you cleaned out the weep holes, did you do like Carol mentioned used something stiff like the trimmer line ? Before you pull the windows I would try cleaning them out good. And if your vent is leaking, I would pull that and re-install correctly with butyl tape. Like already mentioned once you do pull out a window its not a really big deal to do the job right and re-install. Same thing with the vent. Tackle one problem at a time and you will get it done.
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Old 06-14-2012, 05:02 PM   #31
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If the weep holes are plugged the window will leak without a doubt. Water backs up in the track and overflows.

You know the vent leaks so your on the right track to start there. If you still see water at the window after the vent fix I recommend a search using a bucket and plastic cup.

Only apply water to window one area at a time, starting at bottom, go inside and check for water after doing each section. Then you will know where leak is by what part of window you applied water to. Trick is to be certain inside of window is totally 100% dry. If blotting with a kleenex picks up any water your leak is where you last applied water.

We generally tend to think it's the frame of window to trailer but I had a window leak that was the glass frame to window frame rubber seal coming loose. Water ran down edge of screen, filled up track (clogged weep hole) then leaked down wall.

I'm sure you will do fine with a vent or window remove and re-seal. Our reservations and concerns about doing this type of work are generally worse than the job warrants.
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Old 06-14-2012, 05:13 PM   #32
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I poked my awl into the weep holes....is there a track that runs from one to the other? If so then I will have to find something to feed into them. It is going to pour rain very shortly here so and I will go stand inside the trailer and see what I see.
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Old 06-14-2012, 05:14 PM   #33
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And please, please, please DO NOT try to fix a leak by puttying/caulking etc on the inside!
Remove windows if you have to. Use Butyl tape (NOT PUTTY) and then reinstall the window so that it squashes the butyl out as you tighten things up.

Window drains MUST be clean

If it is a sliding window - how are the seals that the window slides against, and where the fixed and sliding parts meet?

If you go on the roof to work on the vent, there is a very good chance the roof will flex enough to mean that you will now have a VERY MAJOR repair to do. Use a ladder or a scaffold of some sort to support your weight - the roof was not intended to be that strong
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Old 06-14-2012, 05:31 PM   #34
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An awl will not do it for you. If you have a weed wackier the nylon that is used to cut down the weeds works well - you need something thin and flexible put fairly stiff to feed right into the weep hole.
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Old 06-14-2012, 05:58 PM   #35
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ok thank you carol....I will try it again. I don't have a weed wacker. I live in a loft apt and no longer have any yard work tools! I'll have to buy some. I am sure I can use it for something!! lol
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Old 06-15-2012, 07:42 AM   #36
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So after it started raining last night, I checked the trailer right away and the water is leaking and pooling onto the inside window track almost immediately and dripping from the bottom corner onto the bench. I am going to try the weep holes again as I don't think I did it properly last time. Tomorrow is the only nice day in our forecast so pulling the vent and/or windows will have to happen then however I don't have the resources at the moment, manpower or otherwise, to do it myself. I guess we'll see what happens.
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Old 06-15-2012, 09:17 AM   #37
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To keep the water damage down you might want to consider just duct taping the window and the vent in the meantime
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Old 06-16-2012, 11:53 AM   #38
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To keep the water damage down you might want to consider just duct taping the window and the vent in the meantime
Ah yes, duct tape! As funds abound here I fixed a crack in my fiberglass with duct tape.....big ol' "X" over the crack with OUCH written on top!LOL That was my quick fix, still dealing with the windows. Seriously, as far as duct tape goes, some tape can leave a real nasty residue that hardens like cement. I wasn't worried as eventually that whole area will get sanded out when I can repair it properly. Check with Donna - she is no friend of duct tape!
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Old 06-16-2012, 02:53 PM   #39
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LOL your right I should have added a note on the residue issue - but if nothing else to use Duct tape does the trick of at least attempting to stop further water damage for a few hours.
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Old 06-16-2012, 09:26 PM   #40
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I bought the weed wacker line....fished it through my weep holes ... it sprinkled a bit this morning and all was dry but the kicker will be tonight/tomorrow as more rain is expected. Haven't resorted to the duct tape yet but won't rule it out!
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