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Old 07-20-2015, 09:11 AM   #21
Jim Bennett's Avatar
Trailer: 2009 19 ft Escape / 2009 Honda Pilot
Posts: 6,162
I prefer to go minimalist, though I have a full chest of tools at home. I used to take a drill set, and a full set of wrenches and sockets, but found they weighted a lot, and took up a lot of space, plus were never really needed.

Repair/Tool Kit
Duct tape
Electrical tape
Masking tape
Tie wire
Cable ties
Sharpening stone
Spare batteries
Pliers - lineman/needle
Adjustable wrenches - 10" & 6"
Screwdriver set
Utility knife
Tape measure
Ball lubricant
Tire sockets - tow & 13/16
1/2" ratchet and swing arm
Small level
Air compressor
Tire pressure gauge
Booster cables
Small folding shovel
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
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Old 07-20-2015, 09:46 AM   #22
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Name: Bill
Trailer: Had Scamp 13'.
Posts: 629
Yes indeed! I use to carry most of the listed many not listed.

However, that was in a very large motor home, with basement storage!

These days, in my 13-foot Scamp, I'd have to chose between taking my socks or the tools!

Where in the world do you people carry all your tools?

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Old 07-20-2015, 10:05 AM   #23
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Trailer: Class A Motorhome
Posts: 7,912
I keep all my tools in the back of the TV, in a milk-crate type of box. You can fit 3 Craftsman Compact (17"), under seat, boxes on top of each other and still have more than 1/2 of the crate for other stuff. Here's a link to those very useful, and inexpensive boxes:

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Old 07-20-2015, 10:13 AM   #24
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Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
Posts: 5,155
It seems that you always need a tool you do not have, but for many fiberglass camping trailers, this list should cover most common tasks you are likely to tackle while on the road and not become overly burdensome.

The tools, their sizes, and the supplies that you need are often specific to your rig, especially if you are trying to minimize what you carry. Therefore, you should choose supplies and tools based on the specifics of your vehicles. Customize your toolbox by going over your rig from top to bottom, examining everything you might need to work on, and choose the right sized tools and the supplies you need. For example, this list assumes you are not using a generator and if you are, the tools and supplies needed for it’s upkeep should be added to this list. This list is for making repairs on the road and does not include safety items (fire extinguisher, eye protection) or suggested daily use items such as a surge suppressor and water pressure regulator but you should still use them when appropriate of course.


Tier-One includes priority tools and supplies that you should not leave home without. You should know how to safely use them, or have someone available who does.

Running Gear:
Proper tools to change tires (wheels). Check beforehand (Note Scamp needs deep socket to remove spare but regular socket is OK for mounting wheels to hubs)
Air compressor and tire pressure gauge
Jumper cables

Multi-meter or 12 VDC and 120 VAC testers.
Spare wire (10 and 14 g), crimp connectors, wire nuts
Bulbs (tug and trailer, inside and outside).
Wire cutter / crimp / strip tool
Wire ties

Water heater drain plug socket
Water Hose washers
Assorted sizes of Hose Clamps

Adjustable wrenches, channel lock pliers, crescent wrench, needle nose and vice grip pliers (sized to the gear on your rig).
Small hack saw
Phillips and flat screwdrivers, also torx if needed.
Duct tape and or Gorilla tape
Electrical tape
Butyl tape
Spare rivets and rivet gun
Emery cloth and small wire brush
JB Weld
3M 4200 Marine caulk
Bailing wire
Any specialty tools or attachments required for your particular rig.
Owner’s manuals with parts lists.


Tier-Two includes tool you might be able to get by without, but they come in handy or are required less frequently. Tier-Two tools are recommended when full timing or boodocking when ready access to stores or repair facilities is not expected. Some of these items are so lightweight that there really is no reason not to carry them.

Spare bearing and seal set with cotter pins. Bearing pre-packed with grease and sealed in baggie
Tire plug repair kit
Metric and SAE Socket Set with extensions
Battery hydrometer
Torque Wrench
Hammer with claw or Axe–hammer and small crowbar
Electric screwdriver / drill and bits
Grease gun if you have “bearing buddies”
Can of WD-40
Chain quick links and shackles
Dielectric grease
Assorted bolts, screws, etc.
Sections of replacement hose
TFE paste and Thread Seal Tape
Soldering iron with solder
Small bubble level
Refrigerator flue brush
RV antifreeze if you might unexpectedly experience sub-freezing temps

As always.. this is IMHO and YMMV.
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Old 07-20-2015, 10:14 AM   #25
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Name: Robert
Trailer: Surf-Side
Posts: 284
Gorilla Tape will temporarily fix a lot of problems .
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Old 07-20-2015, 10:40 AM   #26
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Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,370
Was this mentioned, safety triangle for if you do have to work along the road. But any truck driver will tell you they seem to be regarded as targets, and get run over.
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Old 07-20-2015, 10:59 AM   #27
Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 2010 Scamp 16
Posts: 3,740
I totally would start with the tier one list by gordon2 in post 24. Lot of useful stuff in the tier two list also but also a few "it depends" on space and ability to use tools in question.

Cross reference with what Jim listed in post #21 for a few items that Jim mentions that gordon2 doesn't between those two you would pretty much have it covered.

Hose clamps and a few pieces of tubing or pipe to insert and clamp into a broken or leaking hose can be useful and not take up much space. You may find radiator hose ID matches a tomato paste can (or similar) which can be used to store stuff until required for a repair.

I noticed an idea echoed a few times of looking at what is there in your rig and take tools/parts to deal with that. The more remote your camping the more you need to consider repairing enough to get to a shop back in civilization. That means parts and pieces. Popular local state parks you probably need less.

If it is too bulky or to much hassle to get the stuff together then you will be more inclined to not take it. Back in the day I had two large mechanics tool boxes stashed but that was in a 40 ft. Motorhome. It was just easier to keep a place for my main tool boxes to be hauled out and slid into. Took awhile to come up with a different routine and kit for trailer camping. One that was not a hassle. I have enough to do getting ready, not going to dig through tool boxes to go through tool check list.
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Old 07-22-2015, 06:32 AM   #28
Name: Sally
Trailer: Scamp 19' Fifth Wheel
Posts: 54
Thanks everyone! All good words of advice and I had forgotten that he does play a bit with his ham radio so he will need a bit of space for that.
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Old 07-22-2015, 06:44 AM   #29
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Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
Posts: 5,155
Originally Posted by SallyBEE View Post
Thanks everyone! All good words of advice and I had forgotten that he does play a bit with his ham radio so he will need a bit of space for that.
Well then add some RG-58U and PL-259s to the tool box
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Old 07-22-2015, 07:39 AM   #30
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Name: Clif
Trailer: 08 Weiscraft Little Joe 14 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT
Posts: 754
Originally Posted by mary and bob View Post
Was this mentioned, safety triangle for if you do have to work along the road. But any truck driver will tell you they seem to be regarded as targets, and get run over.
It's very important to use these properly. If all else fails, read the directions.
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Old 07-22-2015, 11:23 AM   #31
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Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 13
Posts: 1,890
Things to add to above lists if not mentioned.
rubber mallet to install the hub cap.
a pry bar to remove the hub cap.
a clicker torque wrench to check the lug nuts.

for the fridge on my 13 foot Scamp. A very long Phillips blade screwdriver. The metal shank needs to be at least 14" long so to get the handle out of the compartment and still reach the screws holding the burner guard. I had to use this just last month to remove spider webs from inside the burner on my last trip. saves a whole lot of swearing. You will also need a very short screwdriver to get the little screw at the end of the burner.
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