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12-08-2012, 02:10 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Name: Sue and Greg
Trailer: 1982 Burro 13 foot and a 2015 Casita Spitit Deluxe 17 ft.
Washington
Posts: 598
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I'm a first time pop riveter. I'm installing a shelf above the front window in my '82 Burro. It is all built and ready for installation. The burro book shows what to do and it includes "L" brackets installed on the left and right sides in from the front edge a few inches and the back glassed in for support. The brackets are suppose to be held in place with 3/16" rivets through the inside glass wall. (the burro is a double glass wall beast). Testing out the rivets and gun on a piece of wood, I have a problem.
I can't get the rivet to snap off as the instructions demonstrate. In fact, to get this far - the rivets feel solid - I finally had the gun on the floor bouncing on it for more pressure. Obviously I can't do that on the fiberglass wall. Should it be this difficult?
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12-08-2012, 02:16 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 5,112
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You need to release the rivet gun, slide it down on the rivet a little and resqueeze until the rivet pops
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12-08-2012, 02:22 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Name: Sue and Greg
Trailer: 1982 Burro 13 foot and a 2015 Casita Spitit Deluxe 17 ft.
Washington
Posts: 598
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas G.
You need to release the rivet gun, slide it down on the rivet a little and resqueeze until the rivet pops
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I've done that - at least 40 times....I am feeling like such a wimp. I really do not want to do screws. Do you think if I bought pipes to extend the handles it would help? It just seems I must be doing something wrong at the basic level.
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12-08-2012, 02:24 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Name: Francesca Knowles
Trailer: '78 Trillium 4500
Jefferson County, Washington State, U.S.A.
Posts: 4,669
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What is the rivet length? Incorrect sizing can yield the result you're experiencing.
Also: you don't mention material of the rivet, but I've found that steel is a real beast to use in a hand riveter.
Francesca
__________________
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12-08-2012, 02:25 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Name: Sue and Greg
Trailer: 1982 Burro 13 foot and a 2015 Casita Spitit Deluxe 17 ft.
Washington
Posts: 598
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles
If Thomas's doesn't prove to be the solution:
What is the rivet length? Incorrect sizing can yield the result you're experiencing.
Also: you don't mention material of the rivet, but I've found that steel is a real beast to use in a hand riveter.
Francesca
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Ah. I'll bet that's it. I figured I needed stainless steel. Maybe I'll switch out for aluminium.
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12-08-2012, 02:30 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
Posts: 8,520
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You should use aluminum rivets whenever working on Fiberglass RVs.
I have pretty much that same gun, and find that steel and stainless steel rivets require much more strength to pop, and exert too much pressure on the fiberglass, sometimes crushing it.
It won't hurt the gun or the rivet application if you make a couple of handle extentions using thinwall electrical conduit.
Cut the pieces about 7 or 8" long, oval the ends to fit snuggly over the handles leaving 5 or 6" of handle extention along with the resultant additional leverage.
Also they do make a drill powered riveter.
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12-08-2012, 02:39 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: Francesca Knowles
Trailer: '78 Trillium 4500
Jefferson County, Washington State, U.S.A.
Posts: 4,669
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I understand that you're practicing on a piece of wood, but:
What's the total thickness of the wall plus the connecting shelf/hardware? That's your "grip length", and 3/16ths sounds short unless as I mentioned before that's the rivet "size", not length.
Francesca
__________________
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12-08-2012, 02:42 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,416
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Francesca has it, go with aluminum rivets and it will be much easier. I'm lazy so I have an air powered rivet gun. There are also ones available with longer handles. Pipe on the handle may work, or it may break your rivet gun. I'm wondering though about using pop rivets in fiberglass, will they crack it. And with the inner and outer shell you can't get to the back side of the rivet to use a washer. Also, be careful with your drill bit and don't go too far and hit the outer shell. Use a piece of tubing or something on the bit as a stop. Only other way you could attach the brackets would be with the plastic inserts and screws. Another caution though, a previous owner of our trailer used too long a screw on the inside and it went right through the outer shell. Darn those previous owners. But they're good to blame for screw ups.
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12-08-2012, 05:40 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: Sue and Greg
Trailer: 1982 Burro 13 foot and a 2015 Casita Spitit Deluxe 17 ft.
Washington
Posts: 598
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Thank you everyone! It is great to have a bunch of go-to people.
It is in. Yay!! It is not going to hold much, but we don't take a lot and since this was a success, I'll do the other end after our per-Christmas camping trip. The lip is only about half an inch. We'll see if that is enough.
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12-08-2012, 06:10 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,710
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Good for you SUE! A shelf holds a bunch of lightweight stuff... it's the travfling-down-the-road with it there that can be problematic. Easily solved by not,leaving it there under tow... but, when you get set Cool!!!!
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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12-08-2012, 08:32 PM
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#11
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Moderator
Trailer: U-Haul 1985
Posts: 3,436
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Shelf looks good! I have a Uhaul, so I have pop-riveted. I had already been advised to use aluminum and they were a breeze. This just confirms that I'd have never been able to snap off the stainless steel ones! What's the shelf made from?
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12-08-2012, 08:44 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Name: Francesca Knowles
Trailer: '78 Trillium 4500
Jefferson County, Washington State, U.S.A.
Posts: 4,669
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Beee-you-tee-ful!
I think the best thing about shelves in that position is that you've got someplace to put all the crapola that's on the table/benches when you go to fold it down into a bed.
Here's a lesson that I learned the hard way, though:
Do NOT, under any circumstance, put a "really pretty rock you simply must take home" up there for any length of time. You won't be able to see it when you check the shelf,
and will in fact completely forget about it until you get home from your trip and discover that a window was broken from the inside by the "pretty rock" that jumped off the shelf!
Francesca
__________________
............... ..................
Propane Facts vs. Fiction:. Click here
Tow Limit Calculator: Click here
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12-08-2012, 11:00 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Name: Sue and Greg
Trailer: 1982 Burro 13 foot and a 2015 Casita Spitit Deluxe 17 ft.
Washington
Posts: 598
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pam Garlow
Shelf looks good! I have a Uhaul, so I have pop-riveted. I had already been advised to use aluminum and they were a breeze. This just confirms that I'd have never been able to snap off the stainless steel ones! What's the shelf made from?
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Pam, I used was 3/8" plywood with "U" shaped aluminum capping the front. I filled it with wood strips to strengthen the length. I used the same "U" metal to form the front to back braces - those are also wood filled. All screwed on place. On the back curved edge I split a PVC pipe and ground out enough along the line to cap the back curved edge then epoxied the pipe in place. Finally I bent "L" brackets to match the burro's curve before pop riveting them in place. :-) so glad it worked!! My previous two attempts to make the shelf fiberglass failed miserably!
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12-09-2012, 08:58 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 5,112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sue and Henry
Pam, I used was 3/8" plywood with "U" shaped aluminum capping the front. I filled it with wood strips to strengthen the length. I used the same "U" metal to form the front to back braces - those are also wood filled. All screwed on place. On the back curved edge I split a PVC pipe and ground out enough along the line to cap the back curved edge then epoxied the pipe in place. Finally I bent "L" brackets to match the burro's curve before pop riveting them in place. :-) so glad it worked!! My previous two attempts to make the shelf fiberglass failed miserably!
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Looks great - big improvement over the first fiberglassed 14 pounder. Keep an eye on this rivet. If it seems to be tearing out, you can drill a larger hole and use a plastic insert similar to what UHaul uses. (Photo is one for a square hole, but they make them for a round hole as well, sold at auto parts stores).
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12-09-2012, 09:42 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,416
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I had a problem with the round inserts turning in the hole, so I use the square ones. Used a small square file to shape the hole.
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12-09-2012, 10:02 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 5,112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mary and bob
I had a problem with the round inserts turning in the hole, so I use the square ones. Used a small square file to shape the hole.
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Great idea. I've found lubing the thread helps along with using an electric screw gun, but square definitely is best.
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12-09-2012, 12:46 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Name: Sue and Greg
Trailer: 1982 Burro 13 foot and a 2015 Casita Spitit Deluxe 17 ft.
Washington
Posts: 598
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Francesca, no pretty rocks for me after your story! Thank you Mary and Bob and Thomas. I'll watch for loosening. I know the whole thing moves a lot when we wander down the road.
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03-14-2013, 05:59 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Name: Randy
Trailer: 1980Trillium 1300
Ontario
Posts: 373
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Pop rivet
Here is my suggestion and through my own experiences, it would work on any material(alum, fiberglass, steel, wood, plastic...). Make sure the length of rivet is OK, put a proper washer in the other side of rivet before pulling the trigger. In my case, most of the times, I use the heads of old rivets when I drill them out for repacement as washers for new ones... Give it a try, Buddy...
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07-07-2017, 11:06 AM
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#19
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Member
Name: jon
Trailer: Scamp 13
Washington
Posts: 34
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scamps and rivets
hi, the mention of rivets with scamps reminds me that i better get set up for it. is there a standard rivet size for use with the scamp? mine is 2004.
thanks,
jon of sequim
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07-07-2017, 11:30 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
Posts: 2,445
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If you are fitting a wood shelf then fit it carefully, hold it in place and mark top and bottom.
Drill a hole between the lines and then use a stainless steel screw with a dab of sealant under the head and screw it into the shelf.
Stronger more leak resistant and will ass support to the shell as well.
If yoy want it even stronger run a bead of PU sealant around the shelf abd screw and glue it in place.
To get a really good bomd cut out the Ensolite insulation, rough up the glass and glue.
I did my whole 16' Scamp rebuild this way
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