Portable A/C Unit - Fiberglass RV
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Old 02-19-2015, 01:52 PM   #1
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Name: Andrew
Trailer: Amerigo
Indiana
Posts: 35
Portable A/C Unit

Hey All,I am thinking about using a Portable A/C and heater combo in my Amerigo. I'm thinking it would best to cut a hole in the fiberglass to vent it instead of venting out the window. I am really interested in this because it will cover both my cooling and heating needs. If anyone would like to see the unit that includes A/C and heat this is the link to the one I am considering Soleus LX-140 Portable Air Conditioner, 14,000 BTU

Options and or Experiences ????
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Old 02-19-2015, 02:06 PM   #2
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Name: Ron
Trailer: 2015 Oliver Legacy Elite II - Hull #69
South Carolina
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Do you realize how big that is? You will need to tube the condensate discharge to the outside somehow as well.

There are so many of these kind of units, you really have alot of choices. There are many with a smaller footprint and height than this one.
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Old 02-19-2015, 02:34 PM   #3
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Name: Andrew
Trailer: Amerigo
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I understand the size of the unit L19" W17.5" H32.75" I think I should have mentioned that my FG is a Shell only and I am building my interior the way I want it. If I was to use the mentioned A/C the plan would be to build it in to my lower cabinet next to the refrigerator. I would be willing to give up some square footage to gain cooling and heating. as for the condensate the unit offers
Auto-Evaporative Technology
The Soleus LX-140 utilizes evaporative technology which not only increases cooling efficiency, but also reduces the need to drain the condensate that is collected in the unit's tank. Wave good bye to emptying out buckets and tanks, with the direct drain function, it fully exhausts all condensate automatically. It also has the capability of dehumidifying up to 60 pints per day.

Any ways its a thought and looking for options and other usable options
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Old 02-19-2015, 03:30 PM   #4
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Name: Steve
Trailer: 2018, 21ft escape— 2019 Ram 1500 Laramie
NW Wisconsin
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If you desire function over form ,I would install a rooftop A/C with a heatstrip.
You would retain your storage space and since your trailer is a shell ,the install would be relatively easy . Some object to the looks of a rooftop unit , I am more concerned about being cool when it's hot and warm when it's cold .
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Old 02-19-2015, 03:36 PM   #5
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Name: Tom
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Andrew, I had one not like the one pictured but similar, one tube portable air conditioner, made a plate so i could exhaust out a window ect. it worked barely, but since it sucks so much air out of the trailer when running it has to get air from somewhere, you guessed right, hot muggy air from any crack it could find, noisy, didnt really have the room never have used it since...upside mine was free and i see why......
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Old 02-19-2015, 04:04 PM   #6
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Name: Ron
Trailer: 2015 Oliver Legacy Elite II - Hull #69
South Carolina
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There are some post on here, I believe, where someone installed a window-unit type ac mounted inside a cabinet. They cut the exterior wall and put in a grate for the exhaust. Some of the Little Guy T@B trailers are setup this way - go to their website and look for picks. Might give you some ideas.
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Old 02-19-2015, 04:32 PM   #7
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Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
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The Casita early on had a window uit installed in the cabinet to the left of the door. The intake was on the side in front ot the door and the exhaust was in the front of the trailer. They had a snap on cover for the front to keep the rocks and bugs from dinging the vent grate and fins.
I am installinga windoe unit in the closet to the right under the new refrigerator.
You have ot separate the inlet from the exhaust because the A/C deosn't like swallowing its own exhaust air for the intake.
best is to arrange for the intake below the hot exhaust to help prevent this since the hot air rises. Some bring the air in from under the trailer.
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Old 02-23-2015, 09:53 AM   #8
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Name: Joe
Trailer: building
Georgia
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support for a/c

-
better be sure to glass in some structural support for any weight you want to put on the roof or the wall.
weight close enough to the frame wouldn't require extra support.
but over time, fiberglass alone will sag due to excessive weight.
a free-standing indoor unit would not require such support.
but if the amount of shell between the door and window when the hole is cut for the exhause is small, a frame would need to be riveted to keep the door and window from creeping in towards each other.
just a thought.


.

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Old 02-23-2015, 11:28 AM   #9
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I have had 2 experiences with these type of ac units on 2 different fiberglass sailboats I owned(Both had about a 14' long cabin area...so comparable in size to most fiberglass trailers.)... Both were returned. I just don't find it does a good enough job. I added an insulated fiberglass sleeve around the exhaust pipe because it throws a lot of heat out of it, sort of like they put on central air ductwork. The first time one I returned, I bought a smaller window unit, and stuck it through my upper hatch with a piece of tarp to cover it and the cabin cooled down and became comfortable in a short time.

Other people might have had better experiences with them but neither of mine were worth the money. I think the idea of the 2 part ac units might be a direction to look into if you don't want a roof top unit. Or if you are re-doing your interior, add a window unit in an upper cabinet, not a lower one because cool air descends. I think it is a shortcoming on my ParkLiner where they located it. Worked good for the space, but not as practical. I use a turbo fan on the floor below it blowing straight up to move the cold air around.
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Old 02-23-2015, 11:45 AM   #10
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Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
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I have been working on my 16' Scamp and the next thing I am doing is adding the AC. I am putting it in the "closet" behind the door.
I have a Norcold 12 V refrigerator that is about 24" wide and 33" high and it will be installed high enough in the new closet to clear the right wheelwell. The bottom space will be dedicated to the power breakers and the 12 VDC battery converter.
Above it comes the refrigerator and over this is a required space to allow for ventilation from the heat exchangers on the back of the refrigerator.Then at the highest will come the A/C. The bottom of this sheld will have the fiberglassed drainpan for the condensate that may drip. Air for the incoming will be ducted in here and the the exhaust above.
This is still a work in progress and more planning is required on the cuts in the sidewall and final location. The A/C I have is 5000 BTU, but another bigger unit may be necessary after trials in the deep south. I think that the previous poster's comment tha the a/c should be higher than floor level is spot on since the heat will be up there.
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