Problem door handle - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-01-2020, 05:57 PM   #21
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Name: Julie
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Reach out if you have questions when you get into it, Betty. I started with a small diameter bit and increased gradually. Iím not sure if that helped or not, but virtually every bit was tossed as they were so worn down (or broken). I used a punch as well to try to get the shaft pushed out, though it didnít seem to help much. I just had to drill that shaft entirely out.

Good luck!
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Old 06-03-2020, 02:44 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by bojetty View Post
Thank you. The locksmith I took it to said without numbers, he couldn't make a key. I thought it odd.
Which proves what Lockman said: go to a GOOD locksmith.



Harold
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Old 06-03-2020, 02:51 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Lockman View Post
Go to a good locksmith that knows how to do it. A good locksmith can read the wafers within the lock and make a key from that information. Unless of course the wafers and internal springs are corroded and not moving properly. I've been a locksmith for over 30 years and that's how I made keys for a number of locks of that type.
A good locksmith never walks away from a challenge.
In 2001 I stopped at a locksmith in Grand Rapids, Michigan, and asked him to make a door key for my newly purchased 1968 XKE. He said he couldn't. (He was sitting at his desk drinking coffee and talking to a buddy.) I asked if he could provide a blank in case I found a locksmith that could. He found a blank and said: I guess I'll try. He went ahead and made me a key by looking in the lock with a flashlight and fiddling. It took him about five minutes.

So the lesson learned is:
find a good locksmith, and
find a good locksmith that isn't on his coffee break, and
find a good locksmith that will actually do the work.



I recently re-keyed a tubular lock myself. The locksmith I bought parts from said he wouldn't want to tackle the job himself. It wasn't hard, and took me about ten minutes, and I'm not a professional locksmith. Go figure.

Harold
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Old 06-03-2020, 03:14 PM   #24
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Thanks, Harold. I've already started drilling out the shaft. It's too late to turn back now. Wish me luck!
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Old 06-03-2020, 03:34 PM   #25
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Definitely will pray for you bojetty. I hope all goes well for you. keep us advised and let us know if it worked.

Yank
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Old 06-03-2020, 03:40 PM   #26
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Thanks, Harold. I've already started drilling out the shaft. It's too late to turn back now. Wish me luck!
I have my fingers crossed and am wishing you the best of luck!!

Harold
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Old 06-03-2020, 03:51 PM   #27
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PB Blaster instead of WD 40. It is formulated specifically to loosen and break up the corrosion on parts.



If you need to drive out the square bar use a drive pin punch. It will direct the force of the hammer blows onto the square bar. That is the correct tool for that task, you can get them at any hardware or auto parts stores. If you don't know what they look like just do an image search or ask the clerk at the store.
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Old 06-03-2020, 03:52 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Bob Durrstein View Post
Scamp doors are well-known, even notorious for older ones, for the factory locks coming open and leaving you 'stuff' all over the road. DAMHIK. Save the trouble and get a new more secure lock with a dead bolt such as https://leisurervparts.com/entry-doo...or-5th-wheels/ . Be sure to set the latch so it does not tear your clothes and body as the factory one can.

ENJOY!



Had this problem. Got a new latch from Scamp. It took a bit of adjusting to get it right. But no problems now. And you really can see AND feel the different old to new. You also usually need new hinges.
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Old 06-03-2020, 03:56 PM   #29
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One thing I have found that most people miss is how cheap locksmiths are if they can take their time and do it at their shop. A $200 on scene job once cost me $20 if I could take it to the shop and leave it for the day. dropped it on the way to work. Picked it up on the way home. The $200 job wold have only came with one key. The $20 came with two And I wanted another one once I got back so that was like another $2. Cut on scene that would have been like $8 apiece.
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Old 06-03-2020, 04:00 PM   #30
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One thing I have found that most people miss is how cheap locksmiths are if they can take their time and do it at their shop. A $200 on scene job once cost me $20 if I could take it to the shop and leave it for the day. dropped it on the way to work. Picked it up on the way home. The $200 job wold have only came with one key. The $20 came with two And I wanted another one once I got back so that was like another $2. Cut on scene that would have been like $8 apiece.
That's true of a lot of professions.
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Old 06-03-2020, 04:02 PM   #31
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Thanks, Yank!
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Old 06-03-2020, 04:04 PM   #32
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Thank you, Harold. I need it!
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Old 06-03-2020, 04:05 PM   #33
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K Corbin....I already started drilling but it seems there is more than the square shaft holding it in. I may be buying a new door....but hope not.
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Old 06-03-2020, 04:07 PM   #34
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Computerspook....Yes, I bought a new inside/outside door lock from Scamp with 2 keys. Did you have to drill a hole for the pin?
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Old 06-03-2020, 04:23 PM   #35
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Computerspook....Yes, I bought a new inside/outside door lock from Scamp with 2 keys. Did you have to drill a hole for the pin?

No/yes. I already had a different safety I am locked inside lock. But if I was going to use the pin I would have had to drill it.

Also had to adjust the striker and frankly I also needed new hinges. If you need to do hinges they are a "Oh I want to kill my self" job done alone. It is easy with a helper. It is a total breeze with an adult helper and a seven year old who is willing to help and in the case really can. ;-) Hey honey you just sit right there. Now when I tell you, you need to remove these two nuts. OK now get back up there. Here is a kiss for such a fabulous job. When I tell you put these nuts on thee bolts when I push them through to you. OK honey you go ahead an tighten them up. Hey we got it fixed you want to sleep in the camper tonight?
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Old 06-03-2020, 04:23 PM   #36
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That's true of a lot of professions.

And for good reason.
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Old 06-03-2020, 04:39 PM   #37
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Computerspook...I wont be trying new henges. They are so rusted on that they wont budge. I think this door lock will be the last thing I do by myself.
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Old 06-03-2020, 05:35 PM   #38
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Computerspook...I wont be trying new henges. They are so rusted on that they wont budge. I think this door lock will be the last thing I do by myself.

Inside or outside rust. On mine the nuts were on the inside. They were a "challenge" to get to without the 7 year old. I did mention the importance of a 7 year old for the job right. ;-) She had to put the end of the ratchet on the nuts them I had to use adult power to get them started. Then she was able to get them the rest of the way off no problem. For me the bolts were so rusted that there was no need to hold them on the outside.

Then once I had the door off I could easily deal with those while paw patrol happened. Had ordered new hinges. Took those and pictures to the local hardware store that is still an old fashioned hardware store. They sold me all new bolts and nuts and washers. Installed the new hinges with all new hardware and the old ones went in the scrap box with the bolts still in them.

The hinge pins on mine were partially failed. So I kind of had to replace them. But they also made the door work much better. And you remembered that I said that this was a job that would make you want to kill yourself if you do it yourself. For heaves sake don't do it yourself. The kid is optional but really totally handy. A second adult is mandatory. With the help it was about a 3 hour job. If I were to do it again and the Brooklyn unit was available again I bet on about an hour total even with rusty bolts.
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Old 06-03-2020, 05:37 PM   #39
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Name: Julie
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Betty - I’d have sworn the same thing with my doorknob - that there was clearly something else preventing it from releasing. Mine was purely just rusted together. I also used a punch, as K suggested. It finally broke it loose, but I had drilled pretty much through the 1-1/2” shaft lengthwise by the time the punch worked.

My small battery operated drill didn’t have enough power - I had to use an electric.

I am not arguing the point that a good locksmith could have taken care of it, but in my case, the nearest locksmith is 30 miles away, and the knob/latch needed to be replaced anyway.

If it’s any consolation, installing the new one was much easier than removing the old!
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Old 06-03-2020, 05:38 PM   #40
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Computerspook...I wont be trying new henges. They are so rusted on that they wont budge. I think this door lock will be the last thing I do by myself.

By the way my lock is that I replaced one of the bolts with a longer one for the latch. Then got a thing from the hardware people I mentioned that looks like a washer with a big eye hook on it. That is on my latch and Then I have a hook bolted to my cabinet. I wanted something more visually locked and easier to unlatch in the deark if I needed to.
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