Problem Regulator?

[Rarebird]

Hi all. We have been camping much of this summer with no problems in our Trillium (1978 4500). Yesterday however I went to make coffee, turned on the stove, and nothing. No gas at all. Changed the tanks ( we carry two ) and nothing. So, do regulators just die like that? What else could it be? We have been using a one stage regulator, could that be the problem? Although it’s worked fine for 5 years.
Thank you, I know someone will have an answer for us.

[Byron Kinnaman]

Are you sure that the second tank if full? If so turn off the gas at the tank then turn it back on SLOWLY. There a valve that shuts off the gas if opened too fast.

[redbarron55]

If turned on too quickly the high flow shut down on the new regulators will shut off the gas.
This,is what the above,poster is saying.

[Byron Kinnaman]

Originally Posted by redbarron55

If turned on too quickly the high flow shut down on the new regulators will shut off the gas.
This,is what the above,poster is saying.

I believe it's in the tank valve system not the regulator.

[Rarebird]

Thank you all. The first tank may have been empty, the second tank was brand new, just replaced. Will try again. Thanks.

[Rarebird]

Hmmmm, both tanks have fuel in them. Turned them on slowly. No difference.

[gordon2]

Time for a manometer test.

(Maybe well past time, since it should be done annually).

[Byron Kinnaman]

Originally Posted by Rarebird

Hmmmm, both tanks have fuel in them. Turned them on slowly. No difference.

The cooler weather also causes less pressure. I had about a gallon left in the tank and stove wouldn't light. Refilled the tank and all is good. Just another thought.

[John in Santa Cruz]

i found after about 5 years of using a 20 lb bottle on my bbq and my smoker, it had a few inches of something non volatile in the bottom.... now, this was before today's safety valves, so next time it ran down, I turned the bottle upside down, and opened the valve to dump whatever that flug was (guessing a heavier hydrocarbon than propane), after that, for the next 5 years, it was fine again. by then the bottle was past date code, so I needed a new one, anyways.

[Steve Hammel]

I had a similar problem sometime back. I was on the road with two empty tanks so I just hit up one of those tank exchanges at a convenience store. Being in a hurry I only picked up one tank. I got to my over night destination, a rest area outside of Boise. It was January, very cold and I couldn't get my heater to work. The tank was full as I just bought it and it was heavy. Needless to say it was a very chilly night. I had a couple of moderate temp sleeping bags and two dogs on a three dog night lol. The next day when I made it to more moderate temps farther south I checked the new tank. The valve on the tank was bad. I unhooked it and opened it a little and nothing happened. I opened it all the way and nothing happened. Basically I had a bumb tank/valve and I thought I was out the $20 or so bucks I paid for it. A while later I did manage to take it to another convenience store that advertised the same gas company. They called their distributer who told them to exchange it and all was well.

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by Steve Hammel

... The valve on the tank was bad. I unhooked it and opened it a little and nothing happened. I opened it all the way and nothing happened. Basically I had a bumb tank/valve and I thought I was out the $20 or so bucks I paid for it. ..

If I understand you right, you expected gas to come out when you opened the valve (with no hose attached). If that is what you are saying then I doubt the tank or valve were faulty...

OPD Valve Design
The design of the OPD valve is such that turning the cylinder service valve handwheel will not produce any effect if the cylinder is not hooked up to an appliance. In other words, a connection must be made between the appliance hose end and the cylinders service valve. The inside of the OPD valve is engineered to only allow propane in or out if the internal valve is actuated by being depressed. This OPD valve feature adds additional safety in case the handwheel is turned, opening the valve. For this reason, OPD equipped cylinders will not allow gas out of the cylinder when opened. ...

Source: Understanding Propane Bottle Valves - Troubleshooting LP Gas Cylinder Connections

[Steve Hammel]

I'm not the subject of this thread. I simply related an experience I had several years ago. When a new tank full of propane was installed the heater and other appliances worked fine. Have a great day!!!

[Paul O.]

Originally Posted by Steve Hammel

Perhaps what you say has some merit in some circumstances. Just for giggles I just now ran outside and tested 3 propane bottles that are sitting next to my bbq. All of them expelled gas upon testing/opening. I am not the subject of this thread I simply related a personal experience that I had. Have a good day!

Note to moderators: clicking on "quote" shows a different version of the post. I have done a little bit of copy and paste here. Maybe because Steve has been editing just as I captured it?

Anyway, opening the valve slowly should expel gas, and that's my experience as well. I always test the cylinders by picking them up and shaking and feeling the liquid sloshing inside. Propane is liquid under the pressure, so it is a reliable test in the absence of having an accurate scale. No slosh, no gas.

[Steve Hammel]

Originally Posted by Paul O.

Note to moderators: clicking on "quote" shows a different version of the post. I have done a little bit of copy and paste here. Maybe because Steve has been editing just as I captured it?

Anyway, opening the valve slowly should expel gas, and that's my experience as well. I always test the cylinders by picking them up and shaking and feeling the liquid sloshing inside. Propane is liquid under the pressure, so it is a reliable test in the absence of having an accurate scale. No slosh, no gas.

Sorry. I edited because of a desire to be positive and try to not let some of the know it all's on this board get me down. I recently came back after being away from this board for a few years because of the very same reasons. Unfortunately nothing has changed.

[John in Santa Cruz]

older valves, pre-OPD, with the round valve handles, would indeed spew propane if you opened the valve with nothing attached.

the OPD cylinders with the 3-lobed handles will NOT do this in my experience. ok, just tested the full spare bottle for my BBQ and yup, nada when valve is opened. if you look in the opening on these bottles, there's a valve inside that has to be depressed by the conical tip of the regulator fitting before any gas gets out.

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by Steve Hammel

Sorry. I edited because of a desire to be positive and try to not let some of the know it all's on this board get me down. I recently came back after being away from this board for a few years because of the very same reasons. Unfortunately nothing has changed.

Well since my post was the only other one, apparently you found my (unedited) comment objectionable. I can't imagine why, its just a friendly discussion about tank valves. But if you did, please know that no offense was intended. I think that my comment is important because if one has a modern OPD valve and it releases gas when opened and no hose is attached, then it is probably faulty. At least that is my understanding. None of my valves release gas when opened without a hose attached. Yes, its a little bit of topic drift but its an important point and a potential safety issue. If that offends, then what can I say except I don't know it all, thats why I referenced a more authoritative source.

[Rarebird]

Just to clarify, I hooked up both tanks to my Coleman stove, and the stove worked. Also, shook them and could hear the sloushing. The stove in the trailer is still not working. The outside temps. are still amazingly warm. It’s very odd.

[John in Santa Cruz]

presumably, hooking your tanks to the coleman, you used another regulator, or a adapter hose for disposables (if the stove uses disposables, then the regulator is inside hte stove)

that suggests your trailer's regulator has gone bad.

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by Rarebird

Just to clarify, I hooked up both tanks to my Coleman stove, and the stove worked. Also, shook them and could hear the sloushing. The stove in the trailer is still not working. The outside temps. are still amazingly warm. It’s very odd.

What stove is in the trailer? I don't have clue what stove might have been installed in the Trill in 1978, or what might be in it now. But I do know that the Suburban stove in my Scamp (also called a drop in cooktop) has a separate regulator in it. So if the stove is similar, the problem could be there.

Or it could be corrosion or blockage in the lines. Or a main regulator problem. In fact, for a camper of that age, there are many possible issues. And we have not yet heard that you have had the propane system checked by a professional. So I advise caution, and suggest that if you have not had a compete system checkup in that last 12 months, that is what you should do now. GL

[David Tilston]

Originally Posted by gordon2

What stove is in the trailer? I don't have clue what stove might have been installed in the Trill in 1978, or what might be in it now. But I do know that the Suburban stove in my Scamp (also called a drop in cooktop) has a separate regulator in it. So if the stove is similar, the problem could be there.

The stock stove in a Trillium is a low pressure appliance. There is no regulator, other then the one at the tank.

I am curious about your Suburban stove. Is it plumbed to the high pressure propane? Or, is it down stream of the trailers regulator? If, as I suspect, it is down stream of the main regulator, what purpose does the regulator on the stove serve?

The title of this thread had me thinking someone found a way to regulate problems. Wouldn't that be nice.