Originally Posted by Tyhee
Hi all you savvy f/g rv'ers,
I have a problem in that I want to replace my original power cable housing and hatch cover with one of these:
The original cable hatch housing leaked badly on the inside of the trailer wall...whether from driving or water coming down a suspended cable or... I don't know. It has to be fixed once and for all. Problem is.. The hole size in the trailer wall is 2 7/8" and all I can only find this new flanged receptacle type with a 1 7/8" opening required....big difference.
I just wanted a 3 screws and replace the housing unit (and rewire) job but REALLY not interested in having to fiberglass the big existing hole down to a smaller size. Maybe this is a bad plan. I thought eliminating one hole in the wall would be a good idea.
What have others done? Thanks a bunch!
Maybe I'm missing something here, but I see that you have a 17' Bigfoot
. Don't you have a 30 Amp shore power/converter installed? And, if so, why would you even consider installing only a 15 Amp shore power entrance connector? Why not just let the moths out of your wallet and buy the appropriate replacement 30 Amp shore power male inlet plug and do it right?
Not that you may want to get this elaborate, (pictures below,) but the commonly installed power access hatches with the little "mouse door" flaps aren't the best. The reason they are installed is, like everything else from any trailer manufacturer, the cheapest way they can go to save a buck. They certainly aren't the best constructed hatches out there by a long shot. The "up side" is that you can replace them with a good quality hatch and not have to deal with the leaky crap the factory installed.
I cut the original opening out and installed a larger, actually usable, hatch, to replace that ridiculously small inaccessible one that is all but useless. Additionally, I cut the cord off from the converter and tied the ends into a newly installed shore power cord outlet with its own independent marine grade 30 Amp twist lock, By removing the permanently mounted cord and installing a 30 Amp twist lock female end onto it in the side of the trailer, I made the shore power hookup much easier, especially by not having to wrestle with it inside that small access hatch, or having it get caught on everything else that is inside of that area.
And if you are freaking out about cutting a hole in your trailer, just remember, every window, hatch, utility access opening, etc. have all been cut into your fiberglass trailer at the factory. They didn't sweat blood worrying about it, why should you?
30 Amp Shore Power Inlet Plug: http://www.westmarine.com/buy/marinc...-inlet--147454