Problem with power cable hatch hole size - Fiberglass RV
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Old 03-26-2016, 10:50 PM   #1
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Name: John
Trailer: '84 Bigfoot b17
British Columbia
Posts: 116
Problem with power cable hatch hole size

Hi all you savvy f/g rv'ers,
I have a problem in that I want to replace my original power cable housing and hatch cover with one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/ParkPower-150B...ct_top?ie=UTF8

The original cable hatch housing leaked badly on the inside of the trailer wall...whether from driving or water coming down a suspended cable or... I don't know. It has to be fixed once and for all. Problem is.. The hole size in the trailer wall is 2 7/8" and all I can only find this new flanged receptacle type with a 1 7/8" opening required....big difference.

I just wanted a 3 screws and replace the housing unit (and rewire) job but REALLY not interested in having to fibreglass the big existing hole down to a smaller size. Maybe this is a bad plan. I thought eliminating one hole in the wall would be a good idea.

What have others done? Thanks a bunch!
John
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Old 03-26-2016, 11:38 PM   #2
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Name: Dave
Trailer: Casita SD17 2006 "Missing Link"
California
Posts: 3,738
Others have made up a cover plate riveted to the shell to cover the existing area with the new hole size in that.
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Old 03-27-2016, 04:14 AM   #3
Raz
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Trailer: Trillium 2010
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I had a similar problem with my water inlet. I made a plate, attached it using the existing holes, sealed with butyl tape. Raz
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Old 03-27-2016, 04:39 AM   #4
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Name: Ben and Janie
Trailer: 2013 16foot Scamp tug 2003 Ford Ranger
Kentucky
Posts: 27
power cord adapter

I used the same kit you are looking at on my 2014 16 ft Scamp because I saw a mouse run up my power cord and into my Scamp very easy install no more mouse hole wish I had done it as soon as I got my Scamp home
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Old 03-27-2016, 08:19 AM   #5
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Name: Steve
Trailer: 2018, 21ft escape— 2019 Ram 1500 Laramie
NW Wisconsin
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They make reducing washers . A pair of 2 1/2 to 1 1/2 electrical reducing washers may work . Not aesthetically pretty but functional and cheap
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Old 03-27-2016, 08:44 AM   #6
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Name: John
Trailer: '84 Bigfoot b17
British Columbia
Posts: 116
Thank you all. A plate is what I will do as you have suggested. Now to rummage around for a nice small sheet of heavy abs plastic or something like that.
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Old 03-27-2016, 08:48 AM   #7
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Name: Greg
Trailer: 2008 Casita 17' SD
Washington
Posts: 1,997
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyhee View Post
Hi all you savvy f/g rv'ers,
I have a problem in that I want to replace my original power cable housing and hatch cover with one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/ParkPower-150B...ct_top?ie=UTF8

The original cable hatch housing leaked badly on the inside of the trailer wall...whether from driving or water coming down a suspended cable or... I don't know. It has to be fixed once and for all. Problem is.. The hole size in the trailer wall is 2 7/8" and all I can only find this new flanged receptacle type with a 1 7/8" opening required....big difference.

I just wanted a 3 screws and replace the housing unit (and rewire) job but REALLY not interested in having to fiberglass the big existing hole down to a smaller size. Maybe this is a bad plan. I thought eliminating one hole in the wall would be a good idea.

What have others done? Thanks a bunch!
John
Maybe I'm missing something here, but I see that you have a 17' Bigfoot. Don't you have a 30 Amp shore power/converter installed? And, if so, why would you even consider installing only a 15 Amp shore power entrance connector? Why not just let the moths out of your wallet and buy the appropriate replacement 30 Amp shore power male inlet plug and do it right?

Not that you may want to get this elaborate, (pictures below,) but the commonly installed power access hatches with the little "mouse door" flaps aren't the best. The reason they are installed is, like everything else from any trailer manufacturer, the cheapest way they can go to save a buck. They certainly aren't the best constructed hatches out there by a long shot. The "up side" is that you can replace them with a good quality hatch and not have to deal with the leaky crap the factory installed.
I cut the original opening out and installed a larger, actually usable, hatch, to replace that ridiculously small inaccessible one that is all but useless. Additionally, I cut the cord off from the converter and tied the ends into a newly installed shore power cord outlet with its own independent marine grade 30 Amp twist lock, By removing the permanently mounted cord and installing a 30 Amp twist lock female end onto it in the side of the trailer, I made the shore power hookup much easier, especially by not having to wrestle with it inside that small access hatch, or having it get caught on everything else that is inside of that area.
And if you are freaking out about cutting a hole in your trailer, just remember, every window, hatch, utility access opening, etc. have all been cut into your fiberglass trailer at the factory. They didn't sweat blood worrying about it, why should you?

30 Amp Shore Power Inlet Plug: http://www.westmarine.com/buy/marinc...-inlet--147454
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Old 03-27-2016, 09:58 AM   #8
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Name: John
Trailer: '84 Bigfoot b17
British Columbia
Posts: 116
Casita Greg, thanks for the extra details, but I am pretty sure I am only playing with 15 amps on my 1984 Bigfoot. We are thinking along the same lines though ...the job will be done right and never leak again on my watch!
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Old 03-27-2016, 10:11 AM   #9
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Name: Steve
Trailer: 2018, 21ft escape— 2019 Ram 1500 Laramie
NW Wisconsin
Posts: 4,500
Make sure the power inlet / receptacle is male not female . If you install a female in the side of your trailer then your trailer extension cord will have two male ends . When you plug the cord into the campground's pedestal the other end of the cord will have exposed metal blades which will be energized . Think of your trailer as an appliance , appliances have a male end on their cords for a reason.
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Old 03-27-2016, 11:42 AM   #10
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Name: John
Trailer: '84 Bigfoot b17
British Columbia
Posts: 116
Yep thanks, understood Steve. I ordered the exact part in link above.
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Old 03-27-2016, 12:06 PM   #11
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Trailer: 2002 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
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Greg's receptacle is the best. You can get a matching watertight plug that not only plugs in and locks but also has a watertight screw connector.

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