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Old 01-02-2023, 10:07 PM   #1
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Name: skip
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propane leak

We are upgrading/repairing our newly aquired Bigfoot 21. Besides the electric re-vamping I replaced the propane hoses from the tanks to the regulator. I bought hoses with built in pressure gauges. I turn on the gas and the gauge shows full. I turn off the gas and the gauge shows full which should be the gas in the lines to stove, heater, etc. When I check back in an hour or 2 the qauge shows empty. I've checked the new lines with soapy water and found nothing. Is there a better/easier way to find that leak other than soapy water?
As the trailer is a 2005 should I be replacing all the gas lines? Oh Boy!!

Just found out that we also aquired a full black tank with its' own poop pyramid. We aren't hooked up to sewage and won't be for months. Is there any enzyme or treatment that we can put in the tank, and leave it long term, to work and solve our pile problem?

Our solar panels and controller arrived today, now just need the batteries and monitor
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Old 01-02-2023, 11:10 PM   #2
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Propane pressure is max until there is none, then it's min. Pressure gauge does little good.
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Old 01-02-2023, 11:12 PM   #3
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Any black tank treatment should work, but you need to drive around and slosh it back and forth to really work.
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Old 01-03-2023, 01:08 AM   #4
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I was using Tank Techs, but have switched to Unique. Cannot really recommend either as I don't have a problem, just using as a preventive measure, but either of the probiotics types should do the trick. It will need some agitation and eventually dumping and resoaking again.

Unique

Tank TechsRX

Regulators go bad, you could have a diaphragm leaking slightly. You could have leaks elsewhere but I'll bet its the regulator itself.

For a 2005, I highly recommend a NEW Marshall Excelsior 253 regulator, and ME hoses, the braided ones are best, all made in USA of US materials. The hoses with the gauges are a gimmick that don't work. There is one line from the regulator to where it joins the copper tubing, and you should consider replacing it. It will be male 3/8 NPT on the regulator end but you will have to adapt the other end as you cannot buy a hose with a male 3/8 flare on it. I bought a hose the length I needed, 3/8 male NPT both ends and a brass male 3/8 flare to female 3/8 NPT if I recall to make it work. Again, I used a ME hose.

MEGR 253 regulator and standard 15 inch hoses

2021 MEC RV and Camping catalog in PDF

The lines after the hose from the regulator are all copper tubing and should not present any issues.

For propane quantity, I am using the Mopeka Tank Check sensors (the PRO version, the standard ones are junk) and an app on the phone, Works great.

You need two sensors and two halos Mopeka

Charles
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Old 01-03-2023, 07:53 AM   #5
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Trailer: 2016 Bigfoot 25RQ
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Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz View Post
Propane pressure is max until there is none, then it's min. Pressure gauge does little good.
And only if you look at it!

Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlesinGA View Post
For propane quantity, I am using the Mopeka Tank Check sensors (the PRO version, the standard ones are junk) and an app on the phone, Works great.

You need two sensors and two halos
I prefer the analog approach:

Years ago we'd wake up at night only to find out both tanks were empty. The shoulder seasons are our favorite times to camp. Minnesota's early spring/late fall nights can be really cold. We found after a couple of years of no-LP events, I'd get lackadaisical again about checking our LP supply (that's my responsibility). So for the past couple of decades I just have the regulator's pointer set for one tank. When the LP runs out I quickly go outside in the cold weather, wearing my pajamas, and quickly open the full tank's valve and turn the pointer to the full tank. I make sure to wake Terry when I do this so two of us know the empty tank needs refilling. She may not be happy, but she's warm!

Works for us,

Perry
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Old 01-03-2023, 02:24 PM   #6
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My regulator is an auto changeover, but I don't open the second tank, I keep it closed, that way if it goes empty everything quits and then I open the other tank and flip the change over. Flipping the change over is somewhat important as the gas flow is limited in auto change over position, compared to the position the lever is pointing at.

For example a Marshall Excelsior MEGR-253 regulator will flow 225K BTU/hr per hour from the selected tank, but when it auto changes to the reserve tank, it flows 150K BTH/hr, and goes back to 225K BTU/hr when you manually select that tank. Look on Page 6 of the 2021 ME Camping and RV catalog for a good description and operation of the regulators. The catalog has lots of useful information in it. Its more than just a catalog.

As you well know, the BF tanks are difficult to access and so I want to know what is in them without having to remove them, the Mopeka system works well for that. I did a write up/thread on my experiences with it, on the BOCI forum.

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Old 01-03-2023, 04:06 PM   #7
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But if the pressure gauge shows pressure in the line and both ends of the line are closed then the pressure in the line should remain the same. Right?
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Old 01-04-2023, 09:01 PM   #8
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But if the pressure gauge shows pressure in the line and both ends of the line are closed then the pressure in the line should remain the same. Right?
Theoretically yes. But the valves, regulators and seals are not perfect. The shut off valves on the gas cylinders are quite good, though. That is why after months of not using the camper the lines from the tank to the stove, for example, take a few seconds to fill with gas. I always make sure the stove burner lights before I go to start the fridge.
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