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Old 05-24-2021, 07:18 AM   #61
MJo
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John I’m all connected with the 10 wire connected to the 7 pin on one end and the circuit breaker on the other. Now do I disconnect the ground from the battery, connect the wire with the circuit breaker to red and then reconnect the ground? I am trying to avoid getting zapped.
Do I disconnect black post on battery first? Then 7 pin > circuit breaker > red post on battery? Do I reconnect the black on the battery last?
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Old 05-24-2021, 11:28 AM   #62
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yeah, disconnect the black ground wire at the battery before messing with any wiring, and reconnect it when everything is installed and buttoned up and no plus wires are just hanging out waiting to short.
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Old 05-24-2021, 11:52 AM   #63
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Thank you, now all I have to do is put on the license plate, check the tires, take it off of the jacks and hook it up. Thank you so much for your help. Get the book yet?
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Old 05-24-2021, 12:15 PM   #64
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Get the book yet?
Elderly health advice from a guy who died at 58? I'm not big on "self help" books, anyways.
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Old 05-24-2021, 12:44 PM   #65
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oh, so now that you've got the tow vehicle power connected, since there's no shutoff relay in the circuit, be sure to unplug the trailer cord from the tow vehicle when you park for more than about an hour (eg, a meal stop is OK, but a half day break, probably not). And of course, be sure to plug the trailer back in when you get on the road again.

The risk is, the trailer could drain your vehicle battery, leaving you stranded.

The relay I previously described would be wired into this AWG10 wire, but the control signal for the relay would have to come from somewhere in the front of the car, as you need a signal thats on when the engine is running but off otherwise, in european cars this is known as 'circuit 15' (circuit 30 is direct battery power, always on). I do not know of anything off hand that would be in the back of the car connected to 15, you'd have to find it under the dash, or in the engine compartment. wait, you said there's a cigar lighter power outlet in the back? IF this cigar outlet is ONLY on when the ignition is on, then you could use the power wire to it as your control circuit, but if its always-on, thats no good.
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Old 05-25-2021, 01:57 PM   #66
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The outlet in the back seat is only on when the cars on.
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Old 05-25-2021, 02:00 PM   #67
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Elderly health advice from a guy who died at 58? I'm not big on "self help" books, anyways.
Dr lodge died of prostate cancer. Too bad you’re not reading the book, it’s educational but it’s also entertaining. I owe my good health partly to ideas I got from the book.
My sons are your age, so you’re in good company, they don’t listen to me either
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Old 05-25-2021, 05:00 PM   #68
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Dr lodge died of prostate cancer. Too bad you’re not reading the book, it’s educational but it’s also entertaining.
You convinced me to get the book.

I'm 57 and last year I had to have my prostate removed due to cancer.
Without early PSA tests ordered by my doctors I would have never known about it, and probably would have died at the same age as Dr. Lodge.

An incredible surgeon and nurses left me with a new life that I'm taking advantage of, and your recommendation might help me get more healthy.

Thank you.
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Old 05-26-2021, 07:16 AM   #69
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electric brakes

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Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz View Post
oh, so now that you've got the tow vehicle power connected, since there's no shutoff relay in the circuit, be sure to unplug the trailer cord from the tow vehicle when you park for more than about an hour (eg, a meal stop is OK, but a half day break, probably not). And of course, be sure to plug the trailer back in when you get on the road again.

The risk is, the trailer could drain your vehicle battery, leaving you stranded.

The relay I previously described would be wired into this AWG10 wire, but the control signal for the relay would have to come from somewhere in the front of the car, as you need a signal thats on when the engine is running but off otherwise, in european cars this is known as 'circuit 15' (circuit 30 is direct battery power, always on). I do not know of anything off hand that would be in the back of the car connected to 15, you'd have to find it under the dash, or in the engine compartment. wait, you said there's a cigar lighter power outlet in the back? IF this cigar outlet is ONLY on when the ignition is on, then you could use the power wire to it as your control circuit, but if its always-on, thats no good.
I checked with Scamp and you are right again!! Have you installed a surge protector in your RV? I am about to buy an external one to use at the power post at the camp but I would prefer installing one in my Scamp so it would automatically protect and wouldn’t be stolen. Any thoughts?
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Old 05-26-2021, 07:29 AM   #70
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My Escape has a Progressive EMS built in, with a remote display above the fridge, and next to the water display/controls (pump switch, level display and test switch).

The EMS is more than just a surge protector, it first verifies the outlet is wired correctly (hot, neutral, ground), then tests the voltage for several seconds before turning the AC power on to the trailer. voltage too high or too low, or a bad ground, will cause it to shut off (or never turn on).
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Old 05-26-2021, 07:39 AM   #71
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in line surge protector,
John, I was thinking of something like this,

Surge Guard 35530 Hardwire Model - 30 Amp on Amazon, I’d want to connect it where the 30 amp electric cable from the Scamp connects to the Scamp and connect the cable on the outer side of the surge protector. and have all within the Scamp to protect from “inquiring hands,” and the weather.
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Old 05-26-2021, 07:46 AM   #72
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I checked with Scamp and you are right again!!
That implies that Scamp (Eveland, Inc) is correct.. and that is often not the case. Present discussion excluded.

Quote:
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Have you installed a surge protector in your RV? I am about to buy an external one to use at the power post at the camp but I would prefer installing one in my Scamp so it would automatically protect and wouldn’t be stolen. Any thoughts?
Use this portable version. It takes a lock to reduce risk of theft. If you get the hardwired one then you have to deal with modifications to the 120 volt AC system and thats more involved and critical than low voltage (12 VDC) wiring. While the hardwired one can be bypassed it remains in the circuit and failure of the contactor (relay) can leave you with no power. With the portable one if it has a problem, you just check the outlet with your and if it shows OK then plug in without the protection (which is mostly for A/C or control boards).
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Old 05-26-2021, 08:06 AM   #73
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that plug adapter ONLY checks for live/hot/ground wiring faults, it does NOT test for over/under voltages NOR does it have any sort of actual surge protection

this is the EMS on my Escape,
https://www.progressiveindustries.net/ems-hw30c

yes, to connect a hard wired EMS like this, you would need to modify the 120VAC wiring in the trailer, disconnecting power cord from the main breaker panel, and connecting the power cord instead to the input side of the EMS, then using a new short length of 10/3 wiring to connect from the output side of the EMS to where the power cord was originally connected. as long as you do this with the trailer power unplugged, and you are careful to connect things correctly, there's no hazard there. if you've done any household wiring, its pretty much the same thing.
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Old 05-26-2021, 08:15 AM   #74
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I may wait on this. Hopefully the KOA I’m going to next weekend will be ok. It seems like the way to go. Thanks for taking the time to explain. MJo
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Old 05-26-2021, 08:21 AM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz View Post
that plug adapter ONLY checks for live/hot/ground wiring faults, it does NOT test for over/under voltages NOR does it have any sort of actual surge protection

this is the EMS on my Escape,
https://www.progressiveindustries.net/ems-hw30c

yes, to connect a hard wired EMS like this, you would need to modify the 120VAC wiring in the trailer, disconnecting power cord from the main breaker panel, and connecting the power cord instead to the input side of the EMS, then using a new short length of 10/3 wiring to connect from the output side of the EMS to where the power cord was originally connected. as long as you do this with the trailer power unplugged, and you are careful to connect things correctly, there's no hazard there. if you've done any household wiring, its pretty much the same thing.
found on amazon,

Progressive Industries 30 Amp Hardwired RV Electrical Management System Surge Protector With Remote Display (1 MIN), EMS-HW30C.

This will be my next project, might not do it this week, I have to locate the “main breaker panel”. shouldn’t be too difficult, just follow the power cord, connects under the right seat in the rear of the Scamp, next to the fresh water tank. I put a “tin cat” there to catch mice, if there were any. Gosh! I’m going to get a swelled head from being able to do all this stuff !!! Thanks again, for your help, I only check with Scamp to make sure they haven’t modified anything that I need to consider.
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Old 05-26-2021, 09:19 AM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz View Post
that plug adapter ONLY checks for live/hot/ground wiring faults, it does NOT test for over/under voltages NOR does it have any sort of actual surge protection

this is the EMS on my Escape,
https://www.progressiveindustries.net/ems-hw30c

yes, to connect a hard wired EMS like this, you would need to modify the 120VAC wiring in the trailer, disconnecting power cord from the main breaker panel, and connecting the power cord instead to the input side of the EMS, then using a new short length of 10/3 wiring to connect from the output side of the EMS to where the power cord was originally connected. as long as you do this with the trailer power unplugged, and you are careful to connect things correctly, there's no hazard there. if you've done any household wiring, its pretty much the same thing.
I got it, arrives Saturday, I’ll be in touch. MJo. (will install Sat-Sun).
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Old 05-26-2021, 11:53 AM   #77
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that plug adapter ONLY checks for live/hot/ground wiring faults, it does NOT test for over/under voltages NOR does it have any sort of actual surge protection...
I never meant to imply that the tester was a substitute for a EMS.. thats why I have the tester for when I first pull into a site AND also a hard wired Progressive Industries HW-30 for my stay there. The tester is very basic but better than nothing if you dont have a EMS or surge suppressor. An EMS is not needed if all you have is fans and lights. But if you have computer control boards, sensitive electronics, or A/C with compressor, protection from surges, low voltages, etc is worth the effort.

The most common issue I see are voltage drops which can damage a Air Conditioner. The second most common I have personally seen is the power pole catching fire.... https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...ire-79837.html
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Old 05-28-2021, 09:48 AM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz View Post
that plug adapter ONLY checks for live/hot/ground wiring faults, it does NOT test for over/under voltages NOR does it have any sort of actual surge protection

this is the EMS on my Escape,
https://www.progressiveindustries.net/ems-hw30c

yes, to connect a hard wired EMS like this, you would need to modify the 120VAC wiring in the trailer, disconnecting power cord from the main breaker panel, and connecting the power cord instead to the input side of the EMS, then using a new short length of 10/3 wiring to connect from the output side of the EMS to where the power cord was originally connected. as long as you do this with the trailer power unplugged, and you are careful to connect things correctly, there's no hazard there. if you've done any household wiring, its pretty much the same thing.
So lights, roof works but no clock, CD player.
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Old 05-29-2021, 03:45 PM   #79
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electric brakes

Quote:
Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz View Post
that plug adapter ONLY checks for live/hot/ground wiring faults, it does NOT test for over/under voltages NOR does it have any sort of actual surge protection

this is the EMS on my Escape,
https://www.progressiveindustries.net/ems-hw30c

yes, to connect a hard wired EMS like this, you would need to modify the 120VAC wiring in the trailer, disconnecting power cord from the main breaker panel, and connecting the power cord instead to the input side of the EMS, then using a new short length of 10/3 wiring to connect from the output side of the EMS to where the power cord was originally connected. as long as you do this with the trailer power unplugged, and you are careful to connect things correctly, there's no hazard there. if you've done any household wiring, its pretty much the same thing.
John, do you have any theory on why my clock and music system, cd player, radio, etc. don’t work now that I connected the wire from the 7 to the battery? could it be that I blew a fuse? that’s easy enough to fix but unless I know why, it could just keep happening. My EMS came today, if no rain tomorrow, I may work on that unless the problem with the radio/cd/etc. is telling me something, like “leave it alone.”. but car works, speedometer, lights, etc.
what do you think?
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Old 05-29-2021, 06:37 PM   #80
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its not saying something like ENTER CODE, is it ?

flat out, nothing, completely blank display on the music system? is the clock a separate device, or is it on the radio/cd/etc display panel? certainly worth checking the fuses, likely two fuses for the radio, one for the radio memory and clock thats always powered, and another for the switched power that turns on when the ignition is ON or AUX (sometimes called circuit 15X on euro cars).

I only have wiring diagrams for volvo 940/960 and 240/260), so I don't know the specifics of your vehicle.
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