providing power to Scamp electric brakes - Page 5 - Fiberglass RV
Free 7 Day Trial RV GPS App RV Trip Planner Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 05-29-2021, 07:10 PM   #81
MJo
Senior Member
 
MJo's Avatar
 
Name: Mary Jo
Trailer: 2020 Scamp w/2004 Volvo XC-70
Massachusetts
Posts: 233
electric brakes

No, only getting a message that I need to replace a ďposition light.Ē. but thatís nothing new, since Iíve had the car, I think Iíve replaced every light. The time is shown at the bottom with the round indicator of the engineís ?revolutions, I donít know the terminology but like my carís gas consumption seems to be best around 25,000 revs, or is it 2500? I know it when I see it. Everything else works, car runs fine. Iím not desperate for the clock or radio. I do like to listen to my cdís (Brooks and somebody) but Iíll survive. Thanks for getting back to me, hope youíre having a nice Memorial Day weekend.
MJo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2021, 06:25 PM   #82
MJo
Senior Member
 
MJo's Avatar
 
Name: Mary Jo
Trailer: 2020 Scamp w/2004 Volvo XC-70
Massachusetts
Posts: 233
electric brakes

now the cd player works, only the time is out. Itís below the odometer in the same space. I opened the box on the ?EMS. looks a little intimidating. I would like to hook it up before I go to the KOA on Thursday.
MJo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2021, 09:24 AM   #83
MJo
Senior Member
 
MJo's Avatar
 
Name: Mary Jo
Trailer: 2020 Scamp w/2004 Volvo XC-70
Massachusetts
Posts: 233
Electric brakes

No. No one will put in my Volvo. So I did it. Now I need to install a surge protector, anyone installed on a Scamp 13í. ?
MJo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2021, 01:29 PM   #84
Senior Member
 
John in Santa Cruz's Avatar
 
Name: John
Trailer: Escape 21, behind an '02 F250 7.3 diesel tug
Mid Left Coast
Posts: 2,359
follow the AC power cord to where it terminates, there should be three wires, black (hot), white (neutral), and green (ground). disconnect it from where it goes, connect it to the input side of the EMS, and get a short piece of the same sort of 120 wire (any decent hardware store, or an electrical wholesaler will have this), and connect it where the power cord used to be and to the EMS output side. secure the EMS somewhree suitable, like behind the power panel.
John in Santa Cruz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2021, 02:18 PM   #85
MJo
Senior Member
 
MJo's Avatar
 
Name: Mary Jo
Trailer: 2020 Scamp w/2004 Volvo XC-70
Massachusetts
Posts: 233
electric brakes

I looked for help, again, in Falmouth. No luck. I did trace the origin of the power cord. It goes into a box under the rear right seat. The seat would have to be removed, but itís only held in by screws, with some sealant around the perimeter. I expect they made it so it could be accessed. You and NAPA are the only ones who help me. Elsewhere, all I get is, ďHire an electrician.Ē I say, ďFind me one and I will.Ē. so again either I do it or I do without. People like You are the spirit of this website, thank you. It does look tricky, there are wires going to other things. too bad you donít have access to it, who knows what could be done? Flying Scamp? Iíll take another look. Iíll read your instructions again and print them out so I can follow them step by step. Iím glad the wires are color coded, that makes it easier not to make a mistake. I looked at the wiring diagram for the Scamp but it wasnít made for people like me.
MJo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2021, 02:26 PM   #86
MJo
Senior Member
 
MJo's Avatar
 
Name: Mary Jo
Trailer: 2020 Scamp w/2004 Volvo XC-70
Massachusetts
Posts: 233
electric brakes

John, I looked at your instructions again. It reminded me of when I worked for my husbandís company, one of his products was portable industrial coolant machines. I went on the road in my little Oldsmobile Cutlass station wagon and demonstrated them. One of my customers was a company in Maine who made the huge rollers that fine paper used in printing the pictures for magazines like National Geographic. When I went there, the floor was covered with leaking coolant, so I stood in ďwater.Ē. There, the ground was green, I didnít know. Our machines used black for ground. I guess Canada uses green for ground. Anyway, I got a weak ďzapĒ I guess because I had rubber soled shoes on? I donít know, but it was an interesting experience.
MJo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2021, 02:40 PM   #87
MJo
Senior Member
 
MJo's Avatar
 
Name: Mary Jo
Trailer: 2020 Scamp w/2004 Volvo XC-70
Massachusetts
Posts: 233
electric brakes

John, the ďinput side of the EMSĒ. is that the side where the power cord, coming from the outside, enters ? Iím trying to think this thru. The EMS receives power from the outside, so the input side of the EMS will be the outside. like the ďtreesĒ side, not the inside the Scamp side. I have to keep going over it in my mind.
MJo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2021, 03:22 PM   #88
MJo
Senior Member
 
MJo's Avatar
 
Name: Mary Jo
Trailer: 2020 Scamp w/2004 Volvo XC-70
Massachusetts
Posts: 233
electric brakes

Quote:
Originally Posted by gordon2 View Post
Not the brake lights.. you would use the running lights for constant power instead of only when the brake lights were on. The Autobrake installation page even underlines and bolds that sentence:
Use running lights as direct 12-volt power source.

They also say this:
When using this option, you must have your vehicle lights turned manually to the on position, and not use the automatic light feature. You must also know if you fail to turn the tow vehicle lights on while towing you will also not have functioning trailer brakes.

What they don't say is how to tell if the lighting circuit can handle the additional power requirements or if the intermittent added power draw will cause the vehicle computer to show a fault. So there are many ways that using this method can fail.

As for the cigarette lighter idea.. these plugs are notorious for falling out, which would leave you with no trailer brakes. And you would need to run the wiring from the inside of the Volvo to the 7-pin or trailer on the outside. So you either drill a hole or pinch the wire under a door. If you make a hole, be sure to use a grommet to prevent abrading the wire's insulation and causing a short. If you run it on the door seal, the wire will probably break someday from being pinched repeatedly.

In both of the above scenarios, a blow fuse will leave you with no trailer brakes.

I really don't understand why you are reluctant to do the simplest and safest thing.. and this is the last time I will suggest it:

1. Add a 4 to 7 pin conversion.. see above post.
2. Add a short run of 10 gauge wire from the battery positive post to a self resetting circuit breaker in the engine compartment. The breaker will reset and restore your brake power on it's own if it suffers an overload, giving you time to get stopped and fix the overload.
2. From the breaker, run 10 gauge wire under the vehicle to the 7-pin. Secure the wire and keep it away from the exhaust system.

This way you make no holes in the car, don't pinch the wires, don't need to worry about fuses blowing, a plug falling out or computer faults. Safe, secure and simple to do. It does not alter the Volvo's electrical system at all and it can be removed in minutes when you get ready to trade the Volvo for another tow vehicle. If your new tow vehicle is fully pre-wired at the factory for towing then you avoid all this hassle.

If you like videos, see this one at one minute 30 seconds (1:30):
https://www.etrailer.com/tv-review-a...r-3430001.aspx

Or at 2:20 in this video:
https://www.etrailer.com/tv-Demo-Aut...r-3430001.aspx
You and John from Santa Cruz agreed so I did it. There was not need to make a hole in the car because Volvo had one they used to thread their 4 pin hitch power line through. I was able to connect to the battery and keep all the wires above the frame and just have the 7 pin on the outside beneath the frame.
MJo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2021, 03:34 PM   #89
MJo
Senior Member
 
MJo's Avatar
 
Name: Mary Jo
Trailer: 2020 Scamp w/2004 Volvo XC-70
Massachusetts
Posts: 233
electric brakes

Quote:
Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz View Post
follow the AC power cord to where it terminates, there should be three wires, black (hot), white (neutral), and green (ground). disconnect it from where it goes, connect it to the input side of the EMS, and get a short piece of the same sort of 120 wire (any decent hardware store, or an electrical wholesaler will have this), and connect it where the power cord used to be and to the EMS output side. secure the EMS somewhree suitable, like behind the power panel.
ďsame sort of 120 wireĒ. Canít I use the 10 wire I got for the 4-7 conversion? I bought a reel of it, (cheap). I need to take a look, I donít know what ď120 wireĒ is. Iíll go to a hardware store and see what youíre talking about.
MJo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2021, 06:34 PM   #90
Member
 
Name: Pat
Trailer: Scamp
New York
Posts: 51
Okay, I already have the 7 plug connector and 4 plug connector, already prewired, on my pickup, so all I have to do is run that hot line? And where do I find the autowbrake on my new to me Scamp 19?
parmm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2021, 06:48 PM   #91
Senior Member
 
John in Santa Cruz's Avatar
 
Name: John
Trailer: Escape 21, behind an '02 F250 7.3 diesel tug
Mid Left Coast
Posts: 2,359
Quote:
Originally Posted by parmm View Post
Okay, I already have the 7 plug connector and 4 plug connector, already prewired, on my pickup, so all I have to do is run that hot line? And where do I find the autowbrake on my new to me Scamp 19?
if your truck already has the 7-blade, likely there's a truck-maker specific connector for the brake controller somewhere just under the driver side dashboarrd, often its tucked behind the top of the side 'kick panel' on the drivers side. each major maker has their own connector, but companies like Tekonsha made 'pigtails' aka adapters for each of them to their own brake controllers, for instance, for a Ford truck, you would use https://www.tekonsha.com/product/303...ontrol-harness

and plug that into any wired Tekonsha brand brake controller, which you mount within drivers handy reach under the dash.

the 7-blade should already have a power wire, although I remember my 2001 Ford E150, there was a relay and a fuse in a baggy with instructions in the glovebox, these had to be plugged into the right spot in the main fuse/relay panel under the hood to activate that power wire.

your scamp should already have a 7-blade 'pigtail' that plugs right into the truck's 7 blade outlet, however the 19 is a 'fifth wheel', so you'll probably want an extension cord since the trailer connector is closer to the middle of the bed than below the rear bumper.
John in Santa Cruz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2021, 08:53 PM   #92
Member
 
Name: Pat
Trailer: Scamp
New York
Posts: 51
Cool

Quote:
Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz View Post
if your truck already has the 7-blade, likely there's a truck-maker specific connector for the brake controller somewhere just under the driver side dashboarrd, often its tucked behind the top of the side 'kick panel' on the drivers side. each major maker has their own connector, but companies like Tekonsha made 'pigtails' aka adapters for each of them to their own brake controllers, for instance, for a Ford truck, you would use https://www.tekonsha.com/product/303...ontrol-harness

and plug that into any wired Tekonsha brand brake controller, which you mount within drivers handy reach under the dash.

the 7-blade should already have a power wire, although I remember my 2001 Ford E150, there was a relay and a fuse in a baggy with instructions in the glovebox, these had to be plugged into the right spot in the main fuse/relay panel under the hood to activate that power wire.

your scamp should already have a 7-blade 'pigtail' that plugs right into the truck's 7 blade outlet, however the 19 is a 'fifth wheel', so you'll probably want an extension cord since the trailer connector is closer to the middle of the bed than below the rear bumper.
2018 Chevy Colorado LT
V6 with tow haul, but no brake controller. If I need a on board brake controller, I would consider the Redarc Tow-Pro Liberty Brake Controller. But if my trailer has Autowbrake, why would I need a on board brake controller. I just need to figure out when needs to be changed in my Chevy wiring to get the Autowbrake to work? Any help would be much appreciated as it is getting harder for my 74 year old brain to comprehend things like it use to. To much useless technical stuff floating around up there!
parmm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2021, 10:45 PM   #93
Senior Member
 
John in Santa Cruz's Avatar
 
Name: John
Trailer: Escape 21, behind an '02 F250 7.3 diesel tug
Mid Left Coast
Posts: 2,359
no idea why you would want to use a kludge like autowbrake if you already have a 7 pin RV connector and your vehicle is already fully wired. having the brake controller within reach of the driver allows you to manually engage the trailer brakes in an emergency, and it also lets you do things like reduce the trailer braking performance on a dirt road when the default setting for dry pavement would cause tire lockups in the dirt.

actually, I'm really surprised a Scamp 19, which is a 5th wheel that has to be towed by a real truck, would even HAVE an autowbrake, thats something usually used on very light trailers that would be towed by a car thats not properly wired.
John in Santa Cruz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2021, 05:07 AM   #94
MJo
Senior Member
 
MJo's Avatar
 
Name: Mary Jo
Trailer: 2020 Scamp w/2004 Volvo XC-70
Massachusetts
Posts: 233
Quote:
Originally Posted by parmm View Post
Okay, I already have the 7 plug connector and 4 plug connector, already prewired, on my pickup, so all I have to do is run that hot line? And where do I find the autowbrake on my new to me Scamp 19?
Call Scamp. The service manager will tell you that the controller is already in the Scamp. When I picked up my 13Ēí they gave me a remote which actuated the controller which they had mounted in the front closet of the Scamp. If you want a controller in your truck, Tekonsha and other brands can be added. Call Scamp, the will give you answers to your ?ís about your Scamp.
MJo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2021, 05:10 AM   #95
MJo
Senior Member
 
MJo's Avatar
 
Name: Mary Jo
Trailer: 2020 Scamp w/2004 Volvo XC-70
Massachusetts
Posts: 233
Quote:
Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz View Post
no idea why you would want to use a kludge like autowbrake if you already have a 7 pin RV connector and your vehicle is already fully wired. having the brake controller within reach of the driver allows you to manually engage the trailer brakes in an emergency, and it also lets you do things like reduce the trailer braking performance on a dirt road when the default setting for dry pavement would cause tire lockups in the dirt.

actually, I'm really surprised a Scamp 19, which is a 5th wheel that has to be towed by a real truck, would even HAVE an autowbrake, thats something usually used on very light trailers that would be towed by a car thats not properly wired.
Yes, it seems strange that he wants separate brakes in the 5th wheel, that could cause real problems
MJo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2021, 10:55 AM   #96
Senior Member
 
Name: Lynn
Trailer: '06 Scamp 16
Rochester, New York
Posts: 196
The already installed Autowbrake is probably connected to the trailer battery. Just make sure you have good power from the the TV to the trailer battery and you should be good to go. Don't overthink it.
Lynn Eberhardt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2021, 11:36 AM   #97
Senior Member
 
Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
Posts: 4,679
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lynn Eberhardt View Post
The already installed Autowbrake is probably connected to the trailer battery. Just make sure you have good power from the the TV to the trailer battery and you should be good to go. Don't overthink it.
Don't underthink it either... thinking that the trailer battery is a safe way to power the trailer brakes is under thinking. For a break-away switch... fine... for constant use, its a very bad idea.

1. You would have to make darn sure the charge line could keep up.
2. You would have to make darn sure you did not run down you trailer battery when camping and then drive away with insufficient brake power (before the battery gets recharged).
3. You would have to darn make sure the battery was properly maintained. and even then as it ages problems will eventually develop.
4. You would have to make darn sure it was not a fused line where a blown fuse would kill the brakes. (Use auto-reset 12 VDC breaker).
5. You would have to make darn sure that no one ever stole your trailer battery.

On the other hand run a dedicated line for the brake power from the tug battery which includes the alternator as a power source and you can be darn sure that there is sufficient power for the trailer brakes whenever the tug is running.
gordon2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2021, 11:44 AM   #98
Senior Member
 
Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
Posts: 4,679
Quote:
Originally Posted by parmm View Post
... But if my trailer has Autowbrake, why would I need a on board brake controller. I just need to figure out when needs to be changed in my Chevy wiring to get the Autowbrake to work?...
IF is the question... Scamp only started installing the AutowBrake system in the last couple of years. And only upon request and upon payment for the option.

If you look for it you will find it if it's there. Its usually on the tongue but can be inside. If inside it should be near the front wall, in the bench compartment or where the 7-pin wiring comes in, near the porta-potty storage. It could be elsewhere but very unlikely. It looks like this:
gordon2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2021, 12:06 PM   #99
MJo
Senior Member
 
MJo's Avatar
 
Name: Mary Jo
Trailer: 2020 Scamp w/2004 Volvo XC-70
Massachusetts
Posts: 233
Electric brakes

I ordered electric brakes so It came with brakes which seem to be Autobrakrs and a remote for my keychain which works the controller installed in the front closet next to the door of my Scamp 13’ to adjust the brakes. It doesn’t look like the picture you posted. It’s smaller, just a black box with wires coming out of which connects it to the brakes. Like I said I have a keychain remote for it.
MJo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2021, 06:10 PM   #100
Member
 
Name: Pat
Trailer: Scamp
New York
Posts: 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by MJo View Post
Yes, it seems strange that he wants separate brakes in the 5th wheel, that could cause real problems
Didn't say I wanted seperate brakes. I said what my preference was if the trailer did not have Autowbrake. Have not picked it up yet! It is a older model year, so I doubt it his the Autowbrake.
parmm is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
brakes, scamp


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
getting power to electric brakes MJo Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 35 11-04-2020 02:32 PM
Surge brakes or electric brakes? Steve Hammel Modifications, Alterations and Updates 25 07-08-2019 01:23 AM
Electric brakes for 16 ft Deluxe Scamp Stuart Towing, Hitching, Axles and Running Gear 5 05-28-2015 11:19 AM
Electric brakes for 16' Scamp Dsironi Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 10 05-16-2013 09:48 AM
How do I adjust Scamp electric brakes? Bryan L. Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 4 09-22-2009 05:48 AM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:35 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions Inc.