Question about cabinets - Fiberglass RV
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Old 06-28-2021, 01:32 PM   #1
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Name: Alexander
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1300
New Hampshire
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Question about cabinets

I have a 13 foot boler where the fiberglass enclosure for the sink and stove has doors for shelves but there is nothing installed. It's just one big void underneath. My question is how are the shelves in your cabinets attached? Are they secured to the fiberglass floor? I assume here is some way you can access the plumbing, gas and electrical lines. Are the shelves enclosed, open, etc? Do you remove the fridge/Icebox and then the shelves working your way to the plumbing if you need to make repairs? Pictures and/or drawings would be helpful.
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Old 07-19-2021, 01:50 PM   #2
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Bumping to see if I can get an answer.
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Old 07-23-2021, 11:22 PM   #3
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more info needed

Can you post a pic?

I can't be certain but under the counter they don't normally have shelves.

Usually there's the furnace under the sink, an access cabinet for the plumbing/electrical and the space for the fridge.
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Old 07-24-2021, 07:14 AM   #4
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I got my74 boler in original condition years ago.
The counter had a furnace, a little fridge, sink, 2 burner stove mounted and a silverware drawer.
The electrial came in the side to a receptical box and was
spliced out to the fluorescent and fridge no fuses.
The propane for the appliances ran along the frame and was spliced up through the floor at the different locations.
The only "shelf" was the top of the wheelwell.
Hope this helps.
Fred
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Old 07-29-2021, 10:50 AM   #5
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This is what I have for the cabinet. The trailer never had a furnace and the opening to the right is where the icebox used to be (it was broken).
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I need to figure out how to put shelves/drawers into the space behind the left 3 openings which have doors (1 door removed).
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Old 07-29-2021, 02:35 PM   #6
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my 79 also had furnace and electric in spots under sink. Fridge under silverware draw.
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Old 07-29-2021, 02:49 PM   #7
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On my Trillium 4500, (which has the furnace opposite to the kitchen) The shelf sits on the wheel well. It looks like the top of your wheel well is flat. That could work for you.
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Old 07-29-2021, 02:55 PM   #8
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Dave, any chance of a picture? It would be helpful. At this point I am at the "what can I do" stage so any examples are welcome.
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Old 07-29-2021, 04:12 PM   #9
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Alex, our 1974 Boler 13 had space similar to yours to the left of the fridge. I moved all electrical components to the bench to the left of the kitchenette and also removed the furnace, leaving storage space under the sink. Our "storage compartment" under the sink had two equal sized doors (left and right) after removing the furnace which was on the left.
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Old 07-29-2021, 05:38 PM   #10
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What do you have planned for the icebox location?
If a fridge or icebox I would source and temp install to get
an idea of space left for shelves.
Our doors are a different size from yours. We place a 5 gallon drinking water container on the wheelwell and a small trash can to the right. The rest of the space is occupied by incidentals. Works well for us that way.
But for a shelf all I really see working is a piece of ply attached to
the top of the well. The space is so small and odd shaped that putting any type of shelf in there cuts down on what can be put in there.
Fred
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Old 07-29-2021, 07:43 PM   #11
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Yours is a rather unusual arrangement of openings. On Scamps without a furnace under the sink, there are two matching narrow tall doors.

Looking at yours, I’m wondering if the flat top of the wheel well lines up with the horizontal strip between the two smaller openings on the right. That would be about the right height for a shelf and the wheel well and divider strip could be attachment points. Epoxy tabs to the inside of the cabinet and shell for support. That would give a large, uninterrupted horizontal surface that could be further organized with bins.

On the fridge side (assuming you’re not going to replace the fridge) you might epoxy in a couple of vertical posts on the left and furring strips on the right to support an adjustable shelf system.

Just thinking out loud… Mine has an icebox on the right snd a furnace on the left, leaving an odd-shaped space between in which we stow our cookware and not much else.
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Old 08-08-2021, 05:19 AM   #12
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I haven't seen that arrangement before

That is an interesting arrangement.

Remember that there needs to be air circulation around the fridge particularly for propane models or models that radiate heat through the sides (ie don't have a big coil on the back). Mine (3-way) had a sheet metal shroud that guided heat out the back vents.

In your case (and depending on how crazy you want to get) it might be best to put in a wooden (plywood) wall/bulkhead to separate the fridge compartment from the rest of it. Similarly add plywood to reinforce the wall closest to the rear dinette and span your shelves between the two uprights. Then you could run a reinforcing 'joist' at the top/front (behind the fg) to support the counter top. That would essentially make it one large cabinet. Cut away any offending fg and put on two large doors cover it.

I don't have the technology to show you what I mean but hopefully you can see it in your mind's eye.
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Old 08-08-2021, 05:55 AM   #13
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So getting back to your actual question

I like my idea of essentially making a box under the counter and using the plywood sides to support the shelving.

Jon in Az's idea of furring strips tabbed into the fg would be strong but could strain the fg depending on your design. Furring strips could also be screwed to the fg from the outside but then the screw heads would be visible. Carriage bolts would also work and would provide a cleaner appearance from the outside.

Fred and David's idea of using the wheel well would provide great support - just make sure any screws in the wheel well area come from the outside in.

Personally I would ditch the mousehole electrical entrance for a sealed unit like a furrion style. That will keep the critters and the elements out and free up some room but then you have to store your electrical cable somewhere else.

The rest of the plumbing and electrical can be neatened up and kept at the back - the only time you'll see it is when the cupboard door is open anyway.

Hope that helps.
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Old 08-08-2021, 07:52 AM   #14
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Just put some cleats on the sides where you want shelves and cut plywood to fit.
If you don't like the result, then change it.
You could put vertical strips in that hold shelves in cabinets from Lowe's where you can move supports easily.


https://www.lowes.com/pd/Style-Selec...-Strip/3006365
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