Questions about floor replacement - Fiberglass RV
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Old 10-13-2020, 02:38 PM   #1
Junior Member
 
Name: Lydia
Trailer: Scamp 13 1977
Pennsylvania
Posts: 2
Questions about floor replacement

Hi, this is my first time posting here. I have a 1977 13 foot scamp, standard layout. I discovered that the back of the dance floor was rotted through, so I'm going to have to replace at least part of the floor. I'm planning on doing a partial replacement by adhering the new wood I put in to the old wood that is still in good condition. I was planning on using liquid nails to join the two pieces because no one will be stepping on/putting any weight on the area, but I could use tips on how to properly replace the floor because I've never done much carpentry. Would liquid nails work to adhere the floor to the metal frame and to the existing wood? What kind of screws should I use to screw the wood into the metal frame? I've read people use West systems epoxy for the bottom and to adhere the wood to the metal frame and fiberglass lip, but I was thinking of using liquid nails as I said, and then a spray or paint that is mean to waterproof wood on the road side if that would be sufficient compared to the epoxy. No store or lumbar yard near where I live carries 5/8" marine or exterior plywood. Would 3/4" or 1/2" marine ply fit properly in the fiberglass lip?
The fiberglass shell in the front and back is resting on the metal frame. I've read that this is a problem because it causes stress to the fiberglass, but I don't believe there is any damage to the wood in the front of the trailer (where the couch is) so I'm not sure why it would be resting on the frame or what I can do to correct this. I've read a lot of forum posts about this subject already but I wanted to ask more questions since I have no experience with this type of project. I appreciate any help. Thanks
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Old 10-13-2020, 04:20 PM   #2
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Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 13
California
Posts: 1,890
on my 1986 scamp 13 the floor is exterior flake board. resin sealed on the top open naked on the bottom. the top is sealed to protect from water leakage so it doesnt soak the wood. the bottom is naked so if it does get wet the water dries out and the floor doesnt rot out. seal both sided and the core gets wet it stays wet too long and then starts the rotting out process. on my trailer the floor is attached to the frame with self drilling / tapping sheet metal screws. no glue or adhesives anywhere. the fiberglass walls are glass and resin tabbed to the inner coated floor. when patching old to new try to center the edges of the patch job with steel cross support under it. Or maybe using biscuit cutter and biscuits to support the splice.

https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=biscuit%20cutter

https://www.albanycountyfasteners.co...p/12732000.htm

An oscillation cutting tool will be your best friend both cutting out stuff or cutting screws from underneath between the frame and floor.

https://www.harborfreight.com/power-...lti-tools.html
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Old 10-13-2020, 06:44 PM   #3
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Name: Eddie
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21, Lil Joe
Florida
Posts: 1,764
First start by placing two 2x4's between the frame rails and belly band to try to raise or support the shell. Cut the 2x4's jus slightly longer than the measured distance and tap in place. Lowes sells 5/8" exterior plywood. (4 green bars I think.) Use wood to metal self tapping countersunk screws to attach floor to the frame rails. Drill a small pilot holes first. Replace the wood across the entire rear section. Cut a straight line across the floor with a skill saw. Not deep enough to hit the frame then finish cut off with multi tool. Remove old floor section. Cut top tabbing from shell with multi tool (round blade) then save the bottom tabbing leave intact . If old screws remain in the frame just grind them off flush. Clean and paint frame, clean off the old glue and shell bonding area with a 4"-4.5" grinder with a twisted wire brush. Make a template out of cardboard for the new floor section. Next on the old floor route a 3/4" lip 1/2 the thickness of the old floor. Then add 3/4" on the straight edge side of your new floor section. Then route the lower side of this board forming a 3/4 lap joint. When joining the wood use Gorilla glue and 1/2" or 5/8" countersunk wood screws. The new rear section is not glued but is screwed to the frame. Dry fit new floor section then remove and coat the bottom and edges good with resin and let dry. This makes a better bond later. Prior to placing the floor in place mix resin with filler to make resin peanut butter and place on the lower lip. Use 1/2 duct screws to pull the lower lip tight to the wood if needed. (messy) At this point let the resin set. Next cut 3" wide strips of fiberglass mat for your top tabbing. Some fill the gap between the wood and shell with resin peanut butter. Then glass in the mat to form your upper tabbing. The floor supports the shell and upper portion of the trailer and needs to be glassed in place on a Scamp. I would not use Liquid nails.
Good Luck
Eddie
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Old 10-15-2020, 12:38 PM   #4
Junior Member
 
Name: Lydia
Trailer: Scamp 13 1977
Pennsylvania
Posts: 2
Thanks so much for your help Eddie. The shell is resting on the frame in the front of the trailer where the wood seems to be solid, and I don't want to replace more of the floor than is necessary, so is there anything I can do to stop the shell from resting on the frame in the front? I will try to raise the shell when I replace the back section as you suggested, I'm just not sure if there's anything I can do about the front section. Are there other areas I should be worried about in terms of the shell being properly supported?
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