Noticed a small leak on our rear window this past weekend. Its all plexiglass with no opening. We noticed its right at the bottom of the window where the two ends of the seal meet right in the middle. There seems to be a little opening and the water sits on the lip and then goes right down the hole. Is there anything we can do that doesn't involve replacing the entire seal? The rest of the window seal looks fine, its just where the two ends meet. Thanks!
As a temporary thing you might try using the heat from a blow dryer to heat the bottom rubber seal to make it extra pliable and working the seal toward the middle to seal the gap. Work a little slack from the bottom corners toward the ends of the seal.
If the seal is the sort that is one piece on the inside and outside might need to work it from inside and outside.
Hopefully someone with real knowledge will weigh in soon. This is just something I would try if I was looking at it in my driveway.
Any fix will be temporary, as the rubber molding around the window ages it becomes harder and shrinks, the only long term fix is to replace the molding. When you replace the molding seat the new molding around the window opening, use a rubber mallet to make sure it is fully seated. Cut the molding so it is al least 3/4" longer (the ends overlap) Apply some bike tire patch adhesive to the ends then force the extra molding into the opening (It will fit). This way the ends will stay tight together.
As a temporary patch to stop or slow the leak you could press some butyl rubber tape into the gap.
The front window of my Scamp has that affliction, and it caused some rot to the front bunk support wood. A previous owner "fixed" the issue with some black stuff that filled the space in the gasket and it seems to be holding up. I don't know exactly what product they used and could find nothing similiar at the auto parts store. I need a new front window at some point anyway and will replace the gasket then.
What about injecting some sort of tire patch compound into the void for something temporary?
Tire patch adhesive is a vulcanizing cement which means it chemically "melts" the rubber and creates a bond by fusing it together. It is thin like a runny syrup and has no strength on its own. It won't work, The butyl will probably work short term by pushing it ell into the crack and even around the gasket/window joint near the leak.
I have used Proflex RV sealant to fix some seam leaks and a leak around the front window on our Uhaul. All it takes is a very tiny crack or gap to allow water in.
Black stuff could have been Black Jack roofing sealant. Essentially a lot like tar. Can be purchased in caulk tubes. Stuff does skin up a bit after it has a chance to set, so it does not remain tacky indefinitely but for awhile it will be pretty sticky.
I think Permatex makes a silicon based black sealant too.
This HAPPENS. Did to me on my 1988 Scamp. The gasket shrinks. I filled that little area (both rear and front plexi windows) with Black Windshield "goop." It's a caulk of some sort... NOT silicone (just like Jared mentioned), but that little gap can let in a bunch of water. Be neat, no need to blob it on and you'd be surprised how little you need to fix that gap.
In the end, you need to replace the gasket and lockstrip material. But my "quick" fix has lasted for a half-dozen years...
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