Recharging the battery on Scamp - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-11-2017, 11:09 AM   #21
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I would disagree with statement 2. I have had both flooded lead batteries and AGM batteries and the resting voltage of a fully charged AGM is approximately the same as a flooded lead battery. My Lifelines (AGM) rest at 12.8v; my previous Interstates (flooded lead) rested at 12.7v. Ford is now using an AGM battery in the F150. At rest (not really rest because of constant small drain) is reads 12.7v.
That's interesting AGM info Carl. I put my Optima Yellowtop battery through an extensive set of use tests in my camper. I measured fully charged, partially discharged, etc. voltages. The Optima YT voltages are totally different from wet cell battery voltages. For example, the fully charged Optima YT resting voltage (I waited 24 hours to measure) is between 13vdc and 13.1vdc. Optima online indicates that a a fully charged Yellowtop or Bluetop battery voltage should be between 13.0vdc and 13.2vdc. Also, the 50% charged Optima YT battery is about 12.2vdc.
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Old 04-11-2017, 11:15 AM   #22
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When ever there's a battery or symptoms of battery problem, I always take to a battery store. I have some equipment but the full complement that a battery store will have and I'm a retired electronic engineer. The biggest problem with backyard mechanics is the lack of really good and efficient equipment to evaluate a problem. I have never had to pay for the evaluation.
I can understand that, but it really doesn't require sophisticated equipment to determine if a battery is dead or if it will not charge/hold a charge. It isn't rocket science......
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Old 04-11-2017, 12:56 PM   #23
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I can understand that, but it really doesn't require sophisticated equipment to determine if a battery is dead or if it will not charge/hold a charge. It isn't rocket science......

Ever heard of "Load Dump"?
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Old 04-11-2017, 01:54 PM   #24
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Ever heard of "Load Dump"?
Yes, Byron, I have, and I fail to see how it would come into play with an onboard battery in a trailer. Furthermore, this thread primarily revolves around why the battery in the OP's trailer isn't supplying 12v power when the shore power is unplugged. As a result, I also fail to see any legitimate reason to pull the battery and run to a "battery store." I've never had a battery problem that I could not diagnose on my own.
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Old 04-11-2017, 02:10 PM   #25
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Yes, Byron, I have, and I fail to see how it would come into play with an onboard battery in a trailer. Furthermore, this thread primarily revolves around why the battery in the OP's trailer isn't supplying 12v power when the shore power is unplugged. As a result, I also fail to see any legitimate reason to pull the battery and run to a "battery store." I've never had a battery problem that I could not diagnose on my own.
A "load dump" and the equipment at a battery store will tell the condition of the battery. It doesn't matter whether it's a trailer house battery for the battery in vehicle. They can tell whether it will hold a charge or not for one thing.
I really don't understand why you're objecting to having a professional with professional equipment look at the battery when it not likely to cost anything do that. It's a quick and easy way to either confirm a destroyed battery or a good battery. Why mess around trying to troubleshoot from the hip.
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Old 04-11-2017, 02:30 PM   #26
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A "load dump" and the equipment at a battery store will tell the condition of the battery. It doesn't matter whether it's a trailer house battery for the battery in vehicle. They can tell whether it will hold a charge or not for one thing.
I really don't understand why you're objecting to having a professional with professional equipment look at the battery when it not likely to cost anything do that. It's a quick and easy way to either confirm a destroyed battery or a good battery. Why mess around trying to troubleshoot from the hip.
I'm not objecting. I'm simply saying that I don't consider my diagnostic methods to be shooting from the hip or to be messing around. I also don't need a thermometer when I get in the shower to determine if the water is too hot or too cold. While some diagnoses cannot be made without sophisticated equipment, I don't find that determining battery condition is one of them. What I object to, or maybe I should say avoid, if anything, is an unnecessary gas wasting trip. If you feel you must run to a battery store at the first sign of a battery glitch, then do it. That's your prerogative. Conversely, I don't understand why you're objecting to me not running to a so-called "professional." Furthermore, you are making a rather bold assumption that I nor anybody in my immediate circle does not have any "professional" battery experience. So with all due respect, you can maintain/diagnose your batteries as you see fit but there is absolutely no reason for me to follow your lead.
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Old 04-11-2017, 03:22 PM   #27
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Most electrical problems with a FG trailer can be diagnosed with a
$5 HF multimeter if one knows how to actually use the meter.
The problem is that most people don't understand electricity , or how the electrical system in their trailer works or how to troubleshoot an electrical problem .
If you read many of the electrical guestion on this forum , that lack of knowledge is obvious . That's why these threads take 6 pages trying to explain to someone how to change a light bulb.

Byron does make a good point , if you don't know how to test a battery then take it to someone that does and have them determine if the battery is the source of the problem.

We have people on this forum that if it doesn't involve pushing an app on a smart phone are totally lost and find everyday mechanical knowledge as mundane. As long as they have someone to lean on they will never learn to figure it out for themselves.
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Old 04-15-2017, 09:43 AM   #28
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Judy,

What did the problem turn out to be?
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